Eucryphia in flower has been magnificent this year – along with many other flowering trees and shrubs – following the exceptionally hot summer in 2018 and a nicely balanced growing season this year. It thrives in the extra heat that a hot summer brings. The tree is native to Chile specifically – the warmer middle region that also favours grapevines, before it gets too hot to the north and much too cold to the south. There are two main species, Eucryphia cordifolia, which is large and evergreen, and Eucryphia glutinosa, which is a large bush or small tree, and semi-evergreen or even deciduous in cooler climates. Like most deciduous trees, the latter is the hardiest. This hardy species has been used to raise hybrids that are more decorative and more reliable. There is also a species from Tasmania, Eucryphia lucida, which is also small with pendulous flowers. There are a couple of varieties of this with pink flowers, ‘Ballerina’ has a light flush of pink on the outside of the petals and ‘Pink Cloud’ has a pale crimson flush at the flower centre. The white-flowered species has very pretty rounded flowers and is sometimes seen in gardens but it is the least frost-tolerant of the lot. The others are quite hardy when established but can be killed as young plants. Having said that, eucryphia survived in many gardens in the two very cold winters in 2010 and big old specimens exist in some places.
Eucryphia in flower has been magnificent this year – along with many other flowering trees and shrubs – following the exceptionally hot summer in 2018 and a nicely balanced growing season this year. It thrives in the extra heat that a hot summer brings. The tree is native to Chile specifically – the warmer middle region that also favours grapevines, before it gets too hot to the north and much too cold to the south. There are two main species, Eucryphia cordifolia, which is large and evergreen, and Eucryphia glutinosa, which is a large bush or small tree, and semi-evergreen or even deciduous in cooler climates. Like most deciduous trees, the latter is the hardiest. This hardy species has been used to raise hybrids that are more decorative and more reliable.
There is also a species from Tasmania, Eucryphia lucida, which is also small with pendulous flowers. There are a couple of varieties of this with pink flowers, ‘Ballerina’ has a light flush of pink on the outside of the petals and ‘Pink Cloud’ has a pale crimson flush at the flower centre. The white-flowered species has very pretty rounded flowers and is sometimes seen in gardens but it is the least frost-tolerant of the lot. The others are quite hardy when established but can be killed as young plants. Having said that, eucryphia survived in many gardens in the two very cold winters in 2010 and big old specimens exist in some places.
Eucryphia 'Rostrevor'.
The most famous of the hybrids, and probably the most beautiful eucryphia of them all, is Eucryphia x intermedia ‘Rostrevor’ which arose in a garden in Co Down.
This is an evergreen hybrid of Eucryphia glutinosa and Eucryphia lucida, reasonably hardy and relatively small-growing with a lovely show of single flowers from August to October, and even a few can be seen towards the end of the year if the weather is not too harsh.
It holds its leaves really well, only losing some of the inner older ones if the weather is cold.
Another famous hybrid with Irish connections is Eucryphia x nymansensis ‘Mount Usher’ which is named after the Co Wicklow garden and is a cross of the two Chilean species.
It makes a tall narrow column of dark evergreen foliage covered at this time of year with masses of flowers, some of them semi-double, which increases their impact.
There are a few groups of this particular variety at Mount Usher and they resemble a waterfall of white flowers, many double.
While all the eucryphias are happiest in a mild locality and on acidic soil, the species Eucryphia cordifolia and its hybrid Eucryphia x nymansensis are tolerant of limy soil but would be better on acid soil, or at least with a good mulch of leaves or pine or spruce needles. All kinds like a moist woodland-type humus-rich soil that does not go dry in summer but with good drainage.
If these requirements are met, it is fast-growing and may begin flowering about two or three years after planting when they reach two metres or so. They can be planted any time of year because they are always supplied in a pot but best in autumn or spring.
An important point about planting eucryphia is to select a site where the tree will have room enough to grow.
Quite often this beautiful tree is sold as a shrub, which it is not, and this can lead to misshapen trees cramped by other trees.
It would be reasonable to give this tree five metres clear of other small trees or large bushes, and this should not be a problem in most rural gardens. Another important point, important for any planting, but especially important in this case, is not to plant too deeply.
The level of the planted rootball should match the level of the surrounding soil, no more, no less.
Now is the time to go looking for spring bulbs to plant. There is a great range available in the garden centres; tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses, scillas and many others. There is no garden that could not benefit from a few bulbs, even if there are lots already present. By having a range of bulbs coming into flower, the garden in spring can have colour for months at a dull time of year.
Hyacinth.
Most bulbs will survive for many years, given the right conditions, and are a great investment, and not at all costly. There are two advantages of buying and planting bulbs early. First of all it benefits the bulbs to make some root growth before the soil cools down in winter. Ssecondly you get the best choice of varieties by looking for them early. Early-planted bulbs are less likely to be tired from sitting on the shop shelves too long.
Flowers
Continue feeding and watering baskets and other containers regularly. Buy spring bulbs and plant them as soon as possible – the fresher they are going into the ground, the better they will flower. There is a last chance to take cuttings of tender plants such as marguerites and fuchsias.
Fruit, vegetables and herbs
Do not let weeds go to seed now. Raspberry and tayberry canes that have finished fruiting could be pruned out and the new canes tied into position. Finish off any remaining summer pruning of over-vigorous apples and pears, shortening the long whippy shoots to about finger length.
Lawn
Moss has grown most of the summer and can be controlled with sulphate of iron. Continue mowing regularly and apply an autumn lawn feed. Prepare now for sowing new lawn areas, or for resowing this month or next. Keep edges neat around beds and borders, trimming grass that the lawnmower missed.
Trees, shrubs and roses
For areas to be planted with trees this autumn, make sure all existing vegetation is completely killed before planting begins. Check the ties on young trees are not rubbing the bark. Shrub roses and ramblers could now be pruned by removing some of the shoots that flowered.
Greenhouse and house plants
As the nights grow cooler, grey mould disease becomes a problem for many greenhouse plants and good hygiene is the best way to avoid it. Tidy up the greenhouse now and do not overwater. Continue to train and side-shoot tomatoes and cucumbers. Allow only existing fruit to develop.
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