Of all the shrubs that I grow in my garden, the one I would not be without for this time of year is Mahonia ‘Charity’.
From early November right through into the new year, masses of small, cup-shaped, lemon-yellow blooms are borne in long, tapering racemes that sprout from the tips of the shoots. For me, just one sniff of their rich fragrance, reminiscent of lily-of-the-valley, is so uplifting on a grey winter’s day.
The waxy blooms are also reliably weather resistant through frost and snow and provide an invaluable source of pollen and nectar for winter-active bees and other pollinators when there’s little else in flower. Blooms are followed in spring by long sprays of bloomy, blue-black berries that are attractive to birds.
Forming an upright, evergreen shrub to around three metres tall, it’s the combination of long-lasting flowers and fruits along with handsome, leathery, holly-like leaves that make this strikingly architectural mahonia a valuable all-rounder in the garden. For best results, grow it in moist but well-drained soil, in partial shade. Older bushes can get sparse and leggy. To keep them compact, each year as soon as they have finished flowering, prune back around one-third of the oldest or over-long, gangly stems to around 60cm above the ground. They respond surprisingly well to hard pruning and dormant buds will re-sprout from below the cut point, even on old wood, to develop new branches lower down.
Don’t immediately discard any long stem prunings as they have a wonderfully gnarled bark that you might find a decorative use for indoors, while thicker stems are sought after by wood turners for the bright, canary yellow colouring of the exposed wood, often used to make pens.
Birdscaping
From my kitchen window, I have full view of variegated holly, Ilex x altaclarensis ‘Golden King’, bejewelled with sparkling red berries that provide a seasonal feast for many birds, especially blackbirds and thrushes. Their comings and goings add life and entertainment to my winter garden view.
Golden variegated holly, Ilex x altaclarensis ‘Golden King’. \ Mary Keenan
One of the easiest and most efficient ways to invite birds into your garden is to plant berry-producing plants such as cotoneaster, pyracantha, hawthorn, elder, rowan, viburnum, berberis, crab apples, hollies, hip-producing roses, ivy, mahonia, honeysuckle and many more. These berried shrubs and trees serve not only as a vital food source, but also as shelter, protecting birds from harsh weather as well as predators. When left uncut, the dried flower heads of many summer and autumn-blooming perennials and annuals also provide food for birds.
I love watching the acrobatic antics of finches, tits and other small birds as they swing atop the brown, thistle-like heads of teasels, foraging for the seeds inside. Sunflower seeds rank particularly high among seed-eating birds, while asters, cardoons, ornamental grasses and evening primrose are all good seed sources too.
Insect-eating birds can enjoy the spiders and overwintering bugs that shelter within the dried seedheads and hollow stems. Tailoring your garden to attract birds and planting a nice variety of berry and seed-producing plants has become known as birdscaping.
Giving the cold treatment
Many seeds with hard coats need a period of chilling to break dormancy and stimulate germination. This is known as stratification, or cold treatment. In nature, the winter season’s cycle of frost, freezing and then thawing again, normally meets this requirement. Common plants that require stratification include hawthorn, rowan, lavender and sedum.
Giving the cold treatment: seed stratification. \ Mary Keenan
The traditional method of cold treatment, whereby seeds are sown outside now in pots, covered with grit and left to the elements has been proving less effective for me with the mild winters of recent years. The winter temperatures outdoors have simply not been cold enough for long enough to break dormancy and enable germination.
This year, I’m resorting to the cheat method and using my kitchen refrigerator. I mix the seeds with damp builder’s sand and seal them in a freezer bag, labelled with the plant name and date. The bag is placed in the refrigerator, kept below 5°C for two weeks to four months depending on the species. As soon as the seeds begin to germinate, they are removed from the fridge, potted up and kept frost-free until they can be put outside.
This month’s to-do list
If necessary, prune Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) and birches (Betula) now that they are fully dormant as they are prone to bleed from pruning cuts in the months after Christmas. Pile a thick layer of mulch over borderline hardy plants, like agapanthus or dahlias left in the ground, to insulate their roots and crowns from winter frost.Prune deciduous hedges, eg beech and hawthorn. Regularly disinfect bird feeders and water dishes to avoid spreading disease.Cut back foliage of Helleborus x hybridus to prevent the emerging flowers being obscured and control hellebore leafspot disease.Plant up containers and group them together for colourful and welcoming displays alongside your front door over the festive season. Include trailing ivies, winter-flowering heathers, violas and pansies. Timely reminder: make a wreath
Christmas welcome wreath. \ Mary Keenan
Like many gardens, ours offers a surprising wealth of seasonal greenery, berries, seedheads and other material to create a welcome wreath for the festive season. I also make extras as Christmas gifts. Metal wreath frames are available from florists’ shops and craft suppliers or make your own using twigs bound together to create a frame. Useful evergreen foliage includes smaller branches of any conifer, holly, ivy, euonymus, osmanthus, escallonia, box and skimmia. As a finishing touch, I like to wire in larch cones, berry sprigs, winter heather, seedheads of Siberian iris and phlomis, some Christmas baubles for a touch of bling and a ribbon. Make sure to stand the cut stems in water immediately after cutting and soak for 24 hours to last better.
Take part and listen
Birdwatch Ireland’s Garden Bird Survey takes place between December to February. Its an ideal way to get to know your garden birds better. Visit birdwatchireland.ie. For bird-lovers their podcast In Your Nature is also well worth tuning into.
Read more
Mary Keenan's Garden Diary: tidy ups and tulips
Mary Keenan's Garden Diary: celebrating trees and getting started on planting
Of all the shrubs that I grow in my garden, the one I would not be without for this time of year is Mahonia ‘Charity’.
From early November right through into the new year, masses of small, cup-shaped, lemon-yellow blooms are borne in long, tapering racemes that sprout from the tips of the shoots. For me, just one sniff of their rich fragrance, reminiscent of lily-of-the-valley, is so uplifting on a grey winter’s day.
The waxy blooms are also reliably weather resistant through frost and snow and provide an invaluable source of pollen and nectar for winter-active bees and other pollinators when there’s little else in flower. Blooms are followed in spring by long sprays of bloomy, blue-black berries that are attractive to birds.
Forming an upright, evergreen shrub to around three metres tall, it’s the combination of long-lasting flowers and fruits along with handsome, leathery, holly-like leaves that make this strikingly architectural mahonia a valuable all-rounder in the garden. For best results, grow it in moist but well-drained soil, in partial shade. Older bushes can get sparse and leggy. To keep them compact, each year as soon as they have finished flowering, prune back around one-third of the oldest or over-long, gangly stems to around 60cm above the ground. They respond surprisingly well to hard pruning and dormant buds will re-sprout from below the cut point, even on old wood, to develop new branches lower down.
Don’t immediately discard any long stem prunings as they have a wonderfully gnarled bark that you might find a decorative use for indoors, while thicker stems are sought after by wood turners for the bright, canary yellow colouring of the exposed wood, often used to make pens.
Birdscaping
From my kitchen window, I have full view of variegated holly, Ilex x altaclarensis ‘Golden King’, bejewelled with sparkling red berries that provide a seasonal feast for many birds, especially blackbirds and thrushes. Their comings and goings add life and entertainment to my winter garden view.
Golden variegated holly, Ilex x altaclarensis ‘Golden King’. \ Mary Keenan
One of the easiest and most efficient ways to invite birds into your garden is to plant berry-producing plants such as cotoneaster, pyracantha, hawthorn, elder, rowan, viburnum, berberis, crab apples, hollies, hip-producing roses, ivy, mahonia, honeysuckle and many more. These berried shrubs and trees serve not only as a vital food source, but also as shelter, protecting birds from harsh weather as well as predators. When left uncut, the dried flower heads of many summer and autumn-blooming perennials and annuals also provide food for birds.
I love watching the acrobatic antics of finches, tits and other small birds as they swing atop the brown, thistle-like heads of teasels, foraging for the seeds inside. Sunflower seeds rank particularly high among seed-eating birds, while asters, cardoons, ornamental grasses and evening primrose are all good seed sources too.
Insect-eating birds can enjoy the spiders and overwintering bugs that shelter within the dried seedheads and hollow stems. Tailoring your garden to attract birds and planting a nice variety of berry and seed-producing plants has become known as birdscaping.
Giving the cold treatment
Many seeds with hard coats need a period of chilling to break dormancy and stimulate germination. This is known as stratification, or cold treatment. In nature, the winter season’s cycle of frost, freezing and then thawing again, normally meets this requirement. Common plants that require stratification include hawthorn, rowan, lavender and sedum.
Giving the cold treatment: seed stratification. \ Mary Keenan
The traditional method of cold treatment, whereby seeds are sown outside now in pots, covered with grit and left to the elements has been proving less effective for me with the mild winters of recent years. The winter temperatures outdoors have simply not been cold enough for long enough to break dormancy and enable germination.
This year, I’m resorting to the cheat method and using my kitchen refrigerator. I mix the seeds with damp builder’s sand and seal them in a freezer bag, labelled with the plant name and date. The bag is placed in the refrigerator, kept below 5°C for two weeks to four months depending on the species. As soon as the seeds begin to germinate, they are removed from the fridge, potted up and kept frost-free until they can be put outside.
This month’s to-do list
If necessary, prune Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) and birches (Betula) now that they are fully dormant as they are prone to bleed from pruning cuts in the months after Christmas. Pile a thick layer of mulch over borderline hardy plants, like agapanthus or dahlias left in the ground, to insulate their roots and crowns from winter frost.Prune deciduous hedges, eg beech and hawthorn. Regularly disinfect bird feeders and water dishes to avoid spreading disease.Cut back foliage of Helleborus x hybridus to prevent the emerging flowers being obscured and control hellebore leafspot disease.Plant up containers and group them together for colourful and welcoming displays alongside your front door over the festive season. Include trailing ivies, winter-flowering heathers, violas and pansies. Timely reminder: make a wreath
Christmas welcome wreath. \ Mary Keenan
Like many gardens, ours offers a surprising wealth of seasonal greenery, berries, seedheads and other material to create a welcome wreath for the festive season. I also make extras as Christmas gifts. Metal wreath frames are available from florists’ shops and craft suppliers or make your own using twigs bound together to create a frame. Useful evergreen foliage includes smaller branches of any conifer, holly, ivy, euonymus, osmanthus, escallonia, box and skimmia. As a finishing touch, I like to wire in larch cones, berry sprigs, winter heather, seedheads of Siberian iris and phlomis, some Christmas baubles for a touch of bling and a ribbon. Make sure to stand the cut stems in water immediately after cutting and soak for 24 hours to last better.
Take part and listen
Birdwatch Ireland’s Garden Bird Survey takes place between December to February. Its an ideal way to get to know your garden birds better. Visit birdwatchireland.ie. For bird-lovers their podcast In Your Nature is also well worth tuning into.
Read more
Mary Keenan's Garden Diary: tidy ups and tulips
Mary Keenan's Garden Diary: celebrating trees and getting started on planting
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