I’ll be honest, I prefer the Easter Sunday dinner to the Christmas Day dinner. It’s still got that delicious fusion of roast flavours but without the pressure and expectation of the festive season; a much more relaxed affair.

Furthermore, I cook a roast every Sunday during winter. As soon as those cold nights come in, I have the spuds peeled and simmering in oil but when it comes to summer Sundays, we’re more inclined to be out at the barbeque. So, that Easter dinner often heralds the end of our roasting season, especially this Sunday with the clocks going forward.

Then of course, the meat has the starring role in the show. Give me lamb any day over turkey and ham. In last week’s edition of Irish Country Living Food, we celebrated the more alternative cuts of lamb - the neck, shoulder and rump as well as some delicious chops. This week, however, Neven Maguire is keeping it traditional showcasing the delicious leg of lamb.

I remember interviewing Martina Calvey from Achill Mountain Lamb who said that even though the island is only 145 square kilometres, you’ll find different subtleties in the taste based on where the lambs graze; quite remarkable

Over the years, I’ve written about some fantastic lamb producers - Achill Mountain Lamb, Connemara Mountain Lamb and Comeragh Mountain Lamb, to name just a few. The influence of the local flora and fauna, the grass and heather that they graze upon and the expertise of the producers leads to a distinctive taste. I remember interviewing Martina Calvey from Achill Mountain Lamb who said that even though the island is only 145 square kilometres, you’ll find different subtleties in the taste based on where the lambs graze; quite remarkable.

PGI status

There has been much deserved attention on Irish beef farmers gaining their PGI status recently. However, over 200 sheep farmers in Connemara blazed a trail with their PGI status in 2007. The unique terrain and its influence on the quality of the meat incentivised this group. As third-generation-farmer Martin Joe Kerrigan told me, they couldn’t possibly market their lamb in the same way as low-lying lamb. The Connemara Mountain lamb is a smaller animal that matures a lot slower, resulting in a leaner product, with a sweeter taste profile.

Spending that little bit more on quality is always worth it in my opinion, especially for a family occasion such as Easter. Consumers may be paying a bit extra for their lamb this year however. Tight supplies and keen market demand is underpinning farmgate prices running €1.80/kg or 29% above the corresponding week in 2023.

Specialist finishers and producers finishing store lambs are reaping the rewards of the current vibrant trade. However, not all farmers are riding the wave, with producers lambing sheep at present contending with continuous adverse weather conditions and higher costs to try and safeguard next season’s lamb crop. Hopefully, current market dynamics will have longer-term benefits for these producers.

At the butcher counter this weekend, you might find your local butcher may not be able to absorb the increase in the same way that retailers can, who use it as a strategy to entice consumer footfall, and thereby make up the difference when you buy an overpriced Easter egg. But when you buy from your local butcher, you are directly supporting local farmers and thereby, local communities. Often, you can taste the difference.

In other food news, we have a new incognito food writer. Spilling the tea is our new 'Maitre’D' - word on the street is she is a friend of the Farmers Journal 'Dealer'. You can see why they are mates - her sassy style compliments his colourful commentary. If you have any food gossip to share on the sly, she can be emailed at maitred@farmersjournal.ie

Enjoy the Easter weekend, and here’s hoping we get a break from all the rain.

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