The ordinary wild gorse has been a blaze of flower for weeks now having made a lot of flower buds in the good autumn weather last year. Wild gorse, or furze as it is also known, is as decorative as most garden shrubs, but too familiar, and too wild, for gardens, even though there is a double-flowered form that carries even more flowers and does not set seeds. It is sometimes grown but still a bit wild in appearance.

Spanish gorse is related to the wild gorse, but different, as it is a separate genus. It originates from southwestern Europe, notably Spain, but it does really well in this climate. The plant is much smaller than gorse and more suited to gardens as it forms a dense, neat-growing, low bush. It starts off in its early years as a small round plant, about knee-high, and spreads out as it grows outwards rather than upright. The whole bush covers itself with clusters of bright yellow flowers and these are held at the tips of the shoots, which makes them very visible.

As the bush gets older, it can spread to reach two metres across and it can be a great addition in early summer. It is particularly effective on a bank or spreading over a gravel area. It looks great creeping down a slope or hanging over the edge of a low retaining wall. Like wild gorse, Spanish gorse is spiny but there is generally no need to brush against it when weeding as it excludes weeds very well, its growth being so dense.

The botanical name for Spanish gorse is Genista hispanica and it has several related bushy plants, notably Genista lydia, which comes from the eastern Balkan region of the Mediterranean, and Genista aetnensis, the Mount Etna broom. Genista lydia is also low-growing, more like broom than spiny gorse because it has narrow rush-like stems that carry the small yellow pea-type flowers. It forms a more open bush than Spanish gorse, lighter in appearance. It is a smaller plant, not as tall or as wide, and makes an arching bush, not as upright in its growth as Spanish gorse, and it flowers a few weeks later. It is really lovely on a rock garden.

Mount Etna broom is not at all like the two low bushes described. By contrast, this is a small tree about the size of a laburnum tree, to which it is also related, all these plants being members of the pea family. It is a most beautiful tree, long-arching branches with sprays of small yellow pea-flowers. The stems have narrow leaves that fall off and the tree grows by means of its green, rush-like stems. Although it is such a lovely, airy tree, it is hardly known, existing only in large collections. It is not very hardy as a young tree, but survives in coastal areas, and for those lucky enough to live near the sea, it is worth trying.

These plants are all very happy in dry soil that is open, even gravelly, and well-drained. The pea family specialises in growing in poor soil, low in nutrients. These plants can fix their own nitrogen nutrient due to special bacteria in nodules on the roots.

In their native lands, these plants succeed in dry rocky places and dry heathlands. They do not thrive in heavy soil that gets wet in winter and can die or become patchy. They love full sunshine and they are quick-growing, perfect for a new bed or sunny bank where there is space to fill. They are evergreen, adding a touch of greenery to the garden in winter, and widely available in garden centres, except for the Mount Etna broom, which can be difficult to find. CL

Allow spring bulbs to wither

The foliage of spring bulbs such as daffodils, snowdrops and crocuses, has begun to die back. The first signs are when the foliage start to flop down. Then the tips of shoots begin to yellow and turn brown. Soon, all the leaves turn brown and later wither and dry out on the soil surface. It is important to allow the plants have the full dying-back, so that they make flowers for the following year. In the three months after flowering, the bulb rebuilds its energy, including that derived from the withering of the leaves. It is best to leave the whole process unhindered but if leaves must be removed, do not do so until they are yellow, at least.

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Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Apple trees may need spraying against apple scab disease, and pears too if the scab disease was present last year. Strawberries may need netting against bird damage. Continue to sow vegetables such as lettuce, radish, carrots, peas, french beans, cauliflower and parsley.

Flowers

In the milder areas, plant bedding plants now and plant up pots and other containers. In colder areas, it is no harm to wait a week or two. Harden the plants off over a week or so if they are coming out of a greenhouse. Watch for slug and snail damage after planting out.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Spray roses for rose blackspot disease. Prune late-spring and early-summer shrubs as soon as they have gone out of flower, if they are outgrowing their space, otherwise leave them alone. Check that recently planted trees and shrubs are securely staked, and are not too dry.

Lawn

Mow the grass regularly during this period of rapid growth. It is essential to keep ahead of growth to have a good quality, dense growth of green grass. Poor growth indicates that feeding with high-nitrogen fertiliser is needed. Control lawn weeds with lawn weedkiller.

Greenhouse and house plants

Water all indoor plants regularly and feed every two weeks or so. Cannas, fuchsias, lantana, marguerites and agaves in pots can be moved out now on to a sunny, paved area. Plant tomato, cucumber, melon, chilli pepper and aubergine plants in the greenhouse soil.