Malta is a spectacularly stunning place. It’s a sun-soaked island in the Mediterranean – so there’s very little to dislike about it – but it’s all the other elements which make this small country a cut above the rest of the destinations in southern Europe.

Malta lies just under Sicily, which in turn lies under Italy, and there is no denying the Italian influence, which is most notable in the food. You can expect lots of pasta (particularly ravioli), olive oil, balsamic vinegar, tomatoes, cheese, bread and butterbeans. Malta also makes its own wine, but it’s snubbed by the Maltese themselves.

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The most vivid memory I brought home of Malta is of its capital Valetta. Valetta has been described as a city “built by gentlemen for gentlemen”. It overlooks the harbour and is home to a basilica with an apple-green dome and blocks of apartments made from beige stone, with dark green shutters framing the windows. The beige-yellow colour of the city’s buildings sits in stark contrast against the sparkling azure sea and the blue cloudless sky. It’s idyllic, but the city also exudes power and might.

Gentlemen’s city

Valetta is perimetered by a fortress which is comprised of great imposing walls, bastions, redoubts, batteries and entrenchments, made with the same beige stone slabs, looking out over the Mediterranean – as if ready to defend the island. And there have been many occasions when Malta needed defending. Due to its strategic location and deep, safe harbours, the small island has been invaded by everyone and this is what makes Malta’s history so interesting – every civilisation that has landed here has left their mark.

Visitors can start at the Ggantija Temples (on the Maltese island of Gozo), which are the oldest freestanding structures in the world. They are 1,000 years older than the pyramids and are listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Influence

In 800 BC the Phoenicians arrived, in 218 BC the Romans came and in 395 the Byzantines landed. In 870 the Arabs occupied Malta – their influence is still seen in Malta’s language today. In 1090 the Normans arrived, followed by the Germans in 1194, the English in 1266 and the Spanish in 1283.

In 1530 Malta was bequeathed to the Order of the Knights of St John of Malta by Charles V of Spain. The knights were drawn from noble families and were originally a religious order, then also became a military one. Many of the trinkets and souvenirs you can buy in Malta’s gift shops are emblems of the knights. They commissioned many artists to embellish buildings, such as churches and palaces, and can be thanked for St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valetta. The cathedral is extremely ornate – everywhere you look is gold – and it is home to not just one, but two Carrvaggios: St Jerome and The Beheading of St John the Baptist. The latter is Carravaggio’s largest canvas and the only one he ever signed. It’s awe-striking, due to its sheer size and colour.

In 1798 Napoleon took Malta from the knights. In 1814 Malta became a British Crown Colony, but it achieved independence within the British Commonwealth in 1964. In 1974 Malta became a Republic and joined the EU in 2004.

Some other highlights to visit in Malta include Valetta’s old parliament building and the ancient village of Mdina, known as The Silent City – which is worth a walk through its narrow, meandering and seemingly sleepy streets, which are home to a mix of medieval and baroque architecture. As if all of that wasn’t enough to take in, there is also the fishing village of Marsaxlokk. Marsaxlokk has an Arabian feel and sits around a harbour with lots of very small, brightly-coloured boats bobbing on the water.

Not perfect

Nowhere is perfect and it wouldn’t be fair to conclude this piece without making some concessions about the negative aspects of Malta. It is the most densely populated country in Europe and has the most cars per capita – and you’d feel both. Finally, the island is not known for its beaches, but if you want to check out the ones that are there, visit www.visitmalta.com/en/beaches-and-bays

In our opinion, Malta’s positives far outweigh its negatives. CL

Visit Gozo

Gozo is a Maltese island smaller and more rural than Malta itself, but well worth a visit. It’s very easily accessible from Malta, with ferries leaving very frequently. The Citadel is a small, fortified city which lies in the heart of Victoria (Gozo’s capital) and is like somewhere the Volturi in Twilight would live. It’s particularly worth a visit – as are Gozo’s salt flats.

Rent a car

While there is a lot of traffic, one of Malta’s advantages is that they drive on the same side of the road as us. Given the island is so small, it won’t take long to get around it and a car is definitely the easiest way of sightseeing.

Rolling Geeks

The Rolling Geeks are a good way to see Malta, particularly the three cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, which are spread over too large an area to cover on foot. A Rolling Geek is a small, electric-powered car that talks (they are pre-programmed with GPS) which shows you where to go and what to look at when you’re there. The car gives you tips, such as ‘there’s a lovely view on the right, a nice café on the left’, etc.

Flights

Ryanair flies five times per week direct from Dublin to Malta International Airport in the summer and three times per week in the winter. See www.ryanair.com for best available offers.

Accommodation

Irish Country Living stayed in the Fortina Spa Resort, Sliema, www.fortinasparesort.com

Tour operators from Ireland to Malta

All information on the Maltese Islands and things to do there is available at www.maltauk.com