Along with her carefully-curated library of Russian textile reference books, Redouté florals and Paisley prints, designer Susannagh Grogan is not afraid to draw on other sources of inspiration a little closer to home.
“These belonged to my grandmother,” she smiles warmly, running a finger over the glass frame protecting a Hereford breeders association medal from the RDS in 1957, and rosettes from the Tinahely, Wexford United Agricultural Society and Spring Shows.
“I took them from the dairy at home.”
So it should come as no surprise if you find a lipstick-red rosette motif, or golden medal print peeking through the silken folds of one of Susannagh’s luxurious scarves. They are stocked by Brown Thomas and Harvey Nichols, both at home and abroad, and have been gifted to Oscar-nominated actress Michelle Williams among others.
This is no small achievement considering Susannagh only launched her own label in 2009 with €2,000 of her savings, having taken a career break to raise her son after embarking on an IVF journey.
Farm To Fashion
This story actually starts on a beef and arable farm between Arklow and Gorey, run by Susannagh’s father Hume Grogan, a former chair of Kilanerin IFA and Wexford regional rep for rural development and livestock until his retirement from agriculture.
Growing up on a farm gave Susannagh the “gung ho” attitude she credits with launching her business, though the fashion influence came from her British-born mother, Jenny.
“She was just about to become an assistant hat buyer in Harrods when they met, and they married after three months of meeting, so it was very romantic,” smiles Susannagh.
“Though I think she was a bit shocked when she ended up in the middle of the country in Wexford.”
When the teenage Susannagh announced that she wanted to pursue a career in art, she had the support of both her parents.
“At one stage, I wanted to be an actress, so I think they were quite relieved,” she says of her decision to study print and textile design at the Chelsea College of Art in London.
The commercial nature of her degree meant that Susannagh quickly landed work with some of the UK’s leading studios, designing prints for major retailers like M&S and Next, while trying to interpret the next big trends.
“Now I can look at the shows in New York in a flash, whereas then you’d have to wait for a magazine that came out once every six months,” recalls Susannagh.
Which was perhaps why she decided to up sticks again and move to the Big Apple with little more than $200 in her pocket (“I think my mother didn’t realise how unorganised I was”), where she landed a job within a week and ended up designing prints for clients including Tommy Hilfiger, Victoria’s Secret, Macy’s and Estée Lauder.
Susannagh later worked as a freelance designer in both London and Capetown, but after returning to Ireland in 2000 life took a different direction when she met her husband Cormac and embarked on IVF, which she admits took its toll.
“It’s tough,” she explains. “And I don’t think it sits well with being creative and fun; infertility and then going through IVF. But we were the lucky ones.”
Indeed, when Gabriel (now eight) did arrive, Susannagh decided to take a complete break from work.
“I wanted to enjoy the time with him and to savour it,” she smiles.
Scarves & Success
By 2009, however, having spent her career designing for other brands, Susannagh decided to invest savings of €2,000 in a limited collection of silk scarves to be sold under her own name, with the Dalkey winter fair her first port of call.
“I was terrified,” she admits. “I thought: ‘Oh my God, is anybody going to even look at these?’”
In fact, it didn’t take long for people to notice. Harvey Nichols snapped up Susannagh’s designs after spotting them at a trade fair in London, while Brown Thomas brought her in store after she appeared at their first Irish Designers Create event in 2011.
Meanwhile, abroad, Susannagh’s scarves were gifted to actresses including Michelle Williams (Brokeback Mountain, My Week With Marilyn) and Melissa McCarthy (Bridesmaids, The Heat) at the US Irish Alliance pre-Oscar party in 2012.
Last spring, international lifestyle brand Anthropologie commissioned a special collection which was sold online and in their Regent Street and Kings Road stores in London, after meeting Susannagh at the Scoop International trade fair. She is currently working on a second commission, with prices starting from $45/£40.
Susannagh has also won a plethora of awards, including accessory designer of the year at the 2011 Fashion Innovation Awards, and best new product in the fashion and accessory category at Showcase in 2013. She recently extended her collection to include wool-blend scarves, leather clutch bags, gloves and iPad covers featuring her distinctive prints.
While admittedly at the higher-end of the market (her silk scarves, for example, range from €75-€195), Susannagh has proven that it is possible to create a luxury brand in a recessionary climate.
“I feel I have a credible business now,” she says. “It’s grown each year and hopefully will keep doing so.”
Though as a busy designer, business woman, mum and wife, she jokes she isn’t quite the fashionista other people perceive her to be.
“I’d say if anyone sees me on the school run, they think, ‘oh God, is she a designer?’” she laughs.
Visit www.susannaghgrogan.com. CL