Weeping or drooping types of tree are much the same. The weeping kinds are more extreme with the whole branch system bent towards ground while drooping types may only have small branches along bigger stems. Some of these species have evolved naturally in drooping shape of twigs as an aid to shedding heavy snow, or others, such as birch, which uses veils of drooping branches to reduce light for competing groundcover plants.

Birch is probably the most popular of weeping trees. Even the basic type species, can grow to over 15 m tall and is popular as a garden tree, but it needs space or it can be too big. The near-surface roots can be tricky as they come up surface of lawns. Besides the normal pendulous kind, there are various weeping plants. One of these, Youngs birch, makes a hay-cock. It is commonly damaged by greenfly in early summer, the pests being secreted within dense, weeping foliage.

There are a few kinds of weeping beech, from moderate drooping branches to the big haycock type. There is also a lovely upright popular beech. The main stem being very active and pushing the tree to 15 m. It has the benefit of needing very little space. Ash is a traditional favourite in country gardens of large size.

There is a weeping selection of almost every garden tree, for instance, weeping cherries, ash, traditional and ivy. There are several kinds of weeping willow. One kind is the Kilmarnock willow, Salix caprea ‘Pendula’, is widely grown, and is a true weeping kind. In fact, it is grafted onto an upright stem to give it some height to start with and it forms a mushroom of dense growth of branches right down to ground level. If it were not grafted, it would simply grow along the ground.

The weeping willow, Salix babylonica, is a beautiful tree and largely free from willow canker which spoils the more modern and commonly available Salix chrysocoma. The older kind is a better tree. The weeping willow also strikes upward as a young tree and the finer twigs at the tips of the branches tend to droop. It can make a fair-sized tree to 10 metres and more across and it looks great near water, such as a pond or stream. The tree looks good in any season of the year, especially so in April with bright yellow-green new leaves and in winter with the pale yellow colour of the bark of the twigs.

A couple of spruce species have drooping branches. The best known is Brewer’s spruce, Picea breweriana, again from the west coast of North America. This makes an upright smallish tree to about 10 metres with branches set at about right angles from the trunk and a fringe of dangling branches and twigs with fine needles along each branch. The effect is very graceful, especially with trees of more ordinary rounded shape in the background or alongside. There is another excellent drooping tree in the same region, the Nootka cypress, the tree thriving in tough conditions.

The Kashmir cypress, Cupressus cashmeriana is a remarkably beautiful tree. It comes from Kashmir in India and it is not fully hardy, unlike the tough Nootka cousin. The Kashmir cypress has folds of fine flat foliage that cascade from the branches on an upright columnar tree. It broadens with age and is at its best in its early decades, but it is difficult to find and only for mild gardens, sheltered and not far from the coast.

Apart from the birch which can be grown as a line or group of trees and will make a hanging veil of twiggery, all of these trees are best seen as single specimens, and even the birch is very good when planted as a single specimen. The drooping qualities are best set off by ordinary trees and shrubs and these drooping trees are often seen as isolated specimens, set a little apart from their backdrop to show them off, or even out on their own. They are ideal for a country garden.

Spread the corms about five centimetres apart, or a bit less, over the surface, pointed end upright and firm them lightly into the compost. Then cover with a layer of the same mix and firm the surface, leaving a couple of centimetres for watering if needs be. Cover with close-mesh wire if there is a danger of mice or squirrels digging out the corms. Leave the pots outdoors and bring them indoors when the flower buds are showing, or leave them outside to flower, where they will last longer.

Trees and shrubs

Prepare ground for planting if not already done. Evergreens can be planted now or in a few weeks for bare-root deciduous trees. Planting can be delayed until spring if the weather is wet and the ground becomes sodden, but the ground can be prepared now by killing all existing vegetation.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Apples can be picked and stored, using plastic bags, open at the neck. Pears can be stored on flat trays or shelves for periods of two to six or even eight weeks. They ripen off the tree and can be used when they soften. Protect cabbage family crops from pigeon damage by covering with netting.

Flowers

Summer bedding can be removed in preparation for planting up spring bedding in beds, pots and baskets. This is the main time for planting spring bulbs in containers for spring display. Perennial flowers can be planted or lifted and divided in the case of existing plants. Tidy up flower beds.

Lawn

If moss was a problem in the lawn last winter and spring, use sulphate of iron to kill it. An autumn lawn fertiliser can still be used or a low-nitrogen compound fertiliser. This will maintain a little growth through the winter and leave the lawn in good condition coming into spring.

Greenhouse

Tidy up all debris and reduce watering to just keep pots from going bone dry. Place rooted cuttings in a bright position and any winter plants such as Christmas azaleas. Most of the greenhouse crops can be cleared soon – tomatoes, chillies, melons and cucumbers. Throw out any old plants that are past their best.