The leaves have fallen off deciduous trees and shrubs, and growth has become dormant, so winter is the best time to prune these woody plants, as it is possible to see the branches clearly, and the demands of the rest of the garden are not so pressing.

There is, however, an important exception – and that is the cherry and plum family, which are rendered more vulnerable to severe diseases, silver leaf and bacterial canker by pruning in winter, when the spores of those diseases are released. Broad-leaved evergreen trees are also not pruned now and are best left if pruning is necessary until spring.

In general, the best shape for a tree is a single trunk with a clear stem to at least several metres, at which point the main branches can fork out. Ideally, from a structural aspect, the central main trunk should rise as high as possible before branching.

To achieve this structure, there should only be a single leading shoot on a young tree, and competing leaders should be pruned out, as they may develop as a weak point that will split later in life. As the tree grows the side-branches should be progressively removed from the main stem. This mimics the natural shading-out of lower branches when trees compete for space in woodland.

Garden trees, especially those planted as single specimens, often grow nearly as wide as they grow tall. Naturally, they take over the space closest to them. But this can leave them with a bushy shape with a lot of low branches that are close to the ground. These can get in the way of lawn-mowing. Or perhaps the tree spreads over lower plants, shading them and killing them.

The removal of low branches or limbs is known as limbing-up a tree, or crown-lifting. Remove entire branches where they arise, not half-way along a branch, unless it is necessary to shorten a branch for reasons of shaping a tree. Some smaller kinds of garden trees, such as acer, magnolia and flowering dogwood, naturally form more than one stem and are called multi-stemmed trees.

If there is space for shrubs to grow, there is no need to prune, unless to remove a wayward branch. Pruning does not encourage more growth or flowers. Certainly, it can encourage fresh new growth, if this is needed.

Very often, the requirement to prune shrubs arises because the plants have grown too big for the space they were given at planting. There are two possibilities to consider: either remove some of the shrubs completely or cut some of them back hard to ground level or near it. The removal of surplus shrubs is a permanent solution, while hard cutting-back is temporary, as the shrubs grow back in a few years and cutting back will be required again.

A good way to avoid having to make difficult decisions on removal is to plan for removal at planting time. Choose some short-lived shrubs, such as broom, lavatera and tree lupin, for removal when other, more long-lived shrubs need space.

Hard pruning of shrubs is a rather drastic approach that results in lost flowering for one or more years, although some shrubs – such as bedding roses, buddleja, fuchsia and Hydrangea paniculata – can produce flowers the same year. If shrubs in general are likely to out-grow their allotted space, it is better to undertake annual pruning by removing some of the older stems and shortening others prior to removal in the following years. This approach helps to keep shrub size under control while not stopping flowering. This should be done after flowering for any shrub that flowers on previous season’s growth and in winter for those that flower on current season’s growth.

But in all cases, only prune if necessary. Do not use hedge-cutters for pruning shrubs, as it can spoil their individual style. Use secateurs, lopping shears, pruning saw and bow saw. CL

Planting horse radish

Horse radish can be used any time, but it develops good flavour in winter. The roots are thick and fleshy, very like those of wild docks, but it is not related. It is actually part of the cabbage family and produces a very pungent, mustard-like smell when bruised. The grated root is used in sauce, traditionally with beef, and the fresh herb is much better tasting than purchased sauces.

It is a good time to plant a few roots. It is very easy to grow and often appears, semi-wild, by roadsides. It will grow in any soil that is not very wet in winter, even in an out-of-the-way corner, where it will battle successfully with weeds. Keeping it to itself is a good idea, because it tends to spread. It needs reasonably good light and will fade out if too much shaded.

Flowers

It is not too late to put a few flowers in pots, especially near the front door and in time for the festive season. Otherwise, perennial flowers can be planted, or lifted, divided and re-planted if they have grown too big. Bulbs for forcing should be lifted and brought into a warm place to flower.

Trees and shrubs

Plant shelter belts, hedges, and woodland areas. The ideal is to plant small bare-root whips or transplants. These are relatively cheap to buy, establish well and are easily planted. Move deciduous trees or shrubs that need more room or are simply in the wrong place. Plant roses of all kinds.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Fruit trees and bushes of all kinds are available now and can be planted immediately. An excellent choice of varieties is available. Lift any remaining root crops and store them in a suitable shed or pit. Continue to tidy the vegetable garden and make sure to clear off weeds.

Lawns

Do not walk on lawn areas if they have become soggy, for fear of causing soil compaction, but if the weather is good and the ground is firm, the grass should be mowed. Grass growth has been exceptional this autumn, and lawns not mowed late in the year will be difficult to mow next spring.

Greenhouse and house plants

Be careful not to stand house plants too close to a source of heat. Do not over-water house plants in winter, or allow them to stand in water. In the greenhouse, check for snails and mice, if you have seeds sown. Water very sparingly and allow a little ventilation to dry the atmosphere.