Roses from China

There are thousands of rose varieties, and many different kinds and races of rose. Over about two centuries, but mainly in the 19th century, crossing of different species and varieties has been taking place constantly.

There are rose species in every country in the Northern Hemisphere including Ireland, where there are about 10 species – the number inexact because there are some natural hybrids.

Commonly known are the pink wild dog rose of hedgerows, the creamy-white field rose and the apple-scented eglantine or sweet briar. The small prickly burnet rose is common on sand hills by the sea. In continental Europe, the French Rosa gallica has large flowers and the musk rose was prized for its scent. These roses are all once-flowering kinds, making a single big rush of colour.

But in China, the Chinese species, Rosa chinensis, has a habit of repeat-flowering. The opportunity to have rose varieties that flowered for a longer time was, and remains, very attractive to rose growers.

In Europe this Chinese species began to be crossed with existing hybrids, and by the end of the 19th century there were plenty of new repeat-flowering kinds, culminating in the much-admired hybrid tea roses.

The hybrid teas were raised by crossing older varieties with the Chinese hybrid, Rosa x odorata, one of the parents being the China rose. It is typical of the China rose to not only repeat-flower, but to carry flowers that change colour substantially while open.

Many start out pale yellow or light pink and darken to pale crimson. Many rose varieties, such as the very famous rose ‘Peace’, have a tendency to develop a suffusion of pink in the petals as they age, and this is the legacy from the China rose.

But the China rose has not been just a provider of good genes, it is a very decorative and much-admired rose in its own right. The form of China rose most commonly seen in gardens is Rosa chinensis ‘Mutabilis’. The ‘Mutabilis’ bit means changeable, referring to the colour change.

This plant was long considered to be the typical China rose, but is now taken to be an old Chinese hybrid, classed as a form of Rosa x odorata. It produces wave after wave of open single flowers on branching flower heads, starting pale golden peach, turning pink and finally pale crimson, the various shades usually on show at the same time.

It has little scent, just a light touch of tea scent on a warm day. It flowers from early summer to late autumn.

It appeared, according to accounts, in Italy, where it was known as ‘Tipo Ideale’, ideal type or best kind, or in Switzerland but its history before then, or how it was brought from China, is not known.

It makes a light, airy bush to about 2m tall and wide, and can be trained up a wall. It likes the sunshine and warmth and favours a wall in colder inland areas. But it is hardy, although late frost might nip its early growth of leaves. It likes good soil, well-drained, and light pruning in early spring.

There are a few related varieties of great charm, notably ‘Pallida’, also known as ‘Parson’s Pink China’ and ‘Bengal Crimson’, deep crimson red and originally from China. ‘Fortune’s Double yellow’ is a climbing form with yellow flowers that turn coppery.

All of these are Chinese hybrids that were bred centuries before rose breeding began in Europe. These are still grown, raised by cuttings passed on by enthusiasts, and sometimes for sale too, especially ‘Mutabilis’.

Check on onions

Onions, shallots and garlic bulbs that were harvested, dried off and stored should be checked now that they have been in their storage quarters for a few weeks or more. The check is to make sure the storage conditions are what they should be: as dry and cool as possible. To achieve this, there needs to be a reasonable flow of air on all sides of the bulbs. If bulbs are placed on a solid surface, condensation can cause deterioration, even sprouting, while a mesh of some kind allows air to move and keep the skins dry. Best of all are plaits or onion hanks, held on a wire or string and with air moving all round, and these can still be made. This takes a bit of time and easier might be a mesh bag that is suspended. Ensure the shed or store has some ventilation, especially if it has a damp floor.

>> This week

Flowers

Plant all kinds of spring bulbs as soon as possible. Hanging baskets and other containers are coming to the end of their time. If they have already gone over, replace the summer plants with some plants for winter and spring, including bulbs. Begin dividing perennial flowers, or planting new plants.

Lawns

Use mosskiller now, if necessary, particularly in shaded areas. Continue mowing and use an autumn lawn fertiliser, unless growth has stopped or the ground is too wet. There is still time to sow a new lawn, or over sow damaged patches, but the weather is getting cooler and the soil is moist.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Remove old vegetables as soon as they as finished and do not allow weeds to build up. Lift and store potatoes and carrots for winter use. Parsnips keep better when left in the ground. Prune raspberry canes, and blackcurrant and gooseberry bushes. Remove weeds from around herbs.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Plant evergreens of all kinds, either from pots or as root-balled plants. All kinds of pot-grown trees and shrubs can be planted too. Check that young trees are securely staked if they need it: wind-rocking can seriously damage, and even kill, young trees that are not yet wind-firm. Prune rambler roses.

Greenhouse and house plants

Pick tomatoes as they ripen or, if the plants have lost leaves, pick the last few green to ripen off the vine. Keep the greenhouse tidy and ventilated. Do not over-water, or splash water about, to reduce the risk of grey mould disease. Rub off summer shading, if not already done.