Butter is making headlines again in American media, most recently with an editorial by food writer Mark Bittman of the New York Times, and followed by a string of many others wheying in (forgive the pun) on the topic. Apparently, butter can be put back on the beloved list.

Personally I wonder if it ever went away. Long before I decided to try to make it from our milk at the farm, I was a lover of butter. When girlfriends swapped butter for unsaturated oils, I stood by my butter dish. Butter has never been a villain in my eyes. Everything in moderation, right?

Perhaps this love of butter stemmed from my Grandma Johnson. She cooked virtually everything with butter, always had a hunk of butter on the table at dinner time, and even placed pats of butter in our hot cereal each morning during our visits. Butter was like the equivalent of a warm, loving family embrace.

Bittman says: “Julia Child, goddess of fat, is beaming somewhere. Butter is back.”

Considering the fact that Ireland is known for its amazing grass-fed creamery butter, a butter priced at a premium and highly sought after in American grocers, it seems Bittman could possibly be preaching to the choir in our case.

I suppose his main point is that sugar and ultra-processed (often labelled as low-fat) foods are now the “real food enemies”, and that butterfat is far better for you than we ever imagined. That’s all well and good, but since I enjoy butter for pleasure and not health, I don’t think I will be eating it by the bowlful anytime soon.

Still, I’ve never been one to pooh- pooh a party, so please allow me to share an irresistible recipe for sun-blushed tomato butter.

This formula is my careful estimation of a compound butter that was served at an Italian eatery in Manhattan that I once loved to frequent. The butter, which was delivered to your table with a basket of fresh crusty bits of bread upon being seated, may have been the sole reason for eating there. Whipped until light and airy, it spreads like a dream and tastes even better. You can also melt over grilled fish or vegetables.

Sun-blushed tomato butter

250g unsalted butter at room temperature

60g sun-blushed tomatoes packed in oil (blot off excess oil)

2 small or medium garlic cloves, minced

1 tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Salt, to taste

  • Mix the butter with an electric mixer until smooth and fluffy. Mince the sun-blushed tomatoes or purée them in a food processor. Add tomatoes to the butter with the garlic, thyme, lemon juice, pepper and salt. Mix until well combined and fluffy.

  • Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container until needed. (The butter also freezes well.) Bring to room temperature before using.

  • Be warned, moderation may prove futile; this stuff is addictive.