THEN: In 2014, we met Kasha Connolly, who had just launched Hazel Mountain Chocolate. Originally from Poland, Kasha moved to Ireland in 2007, but after meeting her husband John she relocated to his family’s suckler farm in Clare to run the Burren Wild Baker Café and launch their bean-to-bar chocolate factory.
NOW: 2016 saw a second Hazel Mountain Chocolate shop open in Galway, as well as the publication of Kasha’s second cookbook. 2020 was on track to be the busiest year yet, with a contract with one of Ireland’s top tourism companies, and new “food experiences” with the support of LEADER.
COVID-19 brought everything to a shuddering halt, but while Kasha believes it was “the right thing to do” closing in March, she acknowledges the sense of loss also.
“It’s like visiting your grandmother every day; and then she’s gone,” she says.
She feels fortunate, however, that lockdown coincided with Easter, which meant their online shop was busy, while the boom in homebaking saw Avoca stock her “Burren Wild Baker” gluten-free cake mixes. Kasha has also been working on her next cookbook, which will include a gluten-free equivalent for each recipe, but some of her new creations will make it to the menu this summer; like a tropical piña colada-style cake.
At present, both premises are open for takeaway, with seating outdoors in the Burren, and chocolate production has resumed. Post-COVID-19, Kasha hopes people will continue to support Irish producers and appreciate the quality of food on our doorsteps.
“We can have a very strong food economy if we just support each other and buy locally,” she says.
Visit hazelmountainchocolate.com
THEN: In 2018, Daragh McDonagh shared how she swapped London life to renovate and reopen the iconic Barrow House in Co Kerry as a boutique B&B.
NOW: While lockdown hit Irish hospitality hard, Daragh made the most of it by completing two major projects at Barrow House.
“This is the time that I never thought I’d get, so I addressed the overgrowth and the land management,” she says. “It was incredibly positive in a very negative space.”
As a result, “the back field” has been landscaped as a beautiful garden, complete with a chicken coop. She also tackled vines and ivy that were “strangling” the woodland at the house, and planted over 70 trees to create a shelter belt.
Having reopened on 29 June, she’s hoping Irish guests will balance the falloff in overseas travellers with special offers eg teaming up with her neighbours at Tralee Golf Club to offer a two-night stay-to-play package including two rounds of golf at €440 pps.
Of course, social distancing means some things have changed, eg guests will no longer have breakfast at the communal table, while luxury touches – like binoculars – have been removed from the bedrooms.
But Daragh is confident COVID-19 can’t take away the essence of a break at Barrow House.
“When people come to Barrow, they generally don’t stay in their room. The draw is the beaches, the sport, Fenit, the walking, the hiking, the touring, getting to Dingle, doing the Ring of Kerry,” she says.
“So really, that’s not changed.”
Visit www.barrowhouse.ie
Nook
THEN: In 2019, we met Ethna Reynolds, who proved success was not measured by the square metre at her cosy café, Nook, in Collooney, Co Sligo.
NOW: With the arrival of baby Holly last December, Ethna had hoped to take a year’s maternity leave and leave Nook in the capable hands of her staff.
When the café was forced to close during lockdown, however, she had little choice but to roll up her sleeves and get back in the kitchen.
“When you close down like that, the money is still going out; but there’s no money coming in,” she explains. “I started doing gourmet food boxes and takeaways and meal kits. It just took off and I’ve been doing it every weekend since.”
Ethna offers everything from taco and bao kits to Italian gourmet, mezze and tapas boxes, with pre-orders open Monday for collection Friday. She is also adding a deli section and at the time of interview, was planning to reopen her café on 30 June, with social distancing regulations allowing her to have four to five tables of two inside.
She feels her industry has been “completely ignored” by Government and that supports are vital eg 0% VAT while businesses find their feet. But her greatest concern is whether she will have enough work for her “amazing staff”. Childcare will also be an issue, though she is fortunate her husband is currently working from home.
But Ethna remains hopeful Nook will pull through.
“We’ve been through hard times before,” she states. “We’ll do it again.”
Visit www.nookcollooney.com
THEN: In 2017, we met Mary Bermingham, who came to Kinvara, Co Galway, on holidays 30 years previously with just a pair of jeans – and never left – turning a small suckler farm into the award-winning Burren Nature Sanctuary.
NOW: Mary made the difficult decision to close on 7 March, after cases of COVID-19 were identified locally. Until then, she would have been expecting 2,000 children on school tours, not to mention other visitors, ranging from families to third-level students studying the biodiversity of the Burren.
“The main thing is that our summer would pay for our previous winter,” says Mary. “We stayed open all year and we’re only open for seven years now, so we’re still a young business.”
Reopening on 1 July has meant a complete review of logistics, such as safe queuing protocols, contactless payment options and one-way routes on the site itself, while also reinventing other elements eg replacing their extensive café offering with a pizza menu.
Yet, a planned partnership with the National Botanic Gardens to develop the national seed bank is still going ahead, while lockdown gave Mary the opportunity to launch a podcast called Nature Magic. She has also written a book of the same title, due for release on Kindle on 28 July.
And if there is any silver lining, Mary believes lockdown has allowed people to reconnect with nature.
“The one theme that is kind of wonderful about COVID-19 is that everybody is listening to birdsong,” she says.
Visit www.burrennaturesanctuary.ie
Rathanna
THEN: In 2019, we met Eric and Catherine Osborne, who had revived their rural family pub in Rathanna, Co Carlow. They also converted a former storehouse to self-catering accommodation and were bringing the 30ac suckler farm back to life.
NOW: Eric and Catherine made the decision to close their bar on the night of Saturday 14 March as they felt it was the responsible thing to do.
“We have a lot of elderly people within our community and we didn’t want to encourage the virus to be brought into the area,” says Eric.
While pubs are allowed reopen this summer, it will be too challenging to facilitate safe social distancing inside a pub as charmingly small as Osbornes for the foreseeable future.
“Under the current guidelines, we would be allowed three seats in the middle of the floor... so in that sense, it’s unviable,” says Eric, though adds that they are considering opening in August during the day time, but using their outdoor area only.
Ultimately, they feel “it won’t be the same until a vaccine or a treatment is found”.
Accommodation-wise, The Storehouse will open in July to honour existing bookings, and new bookings from August, but they are hoping to market more towards family groups.
In the meantime, they’ve been busy on the farm, clearing and reseeding another seven acres and preparing to reroof an old cow house. They feel “blessed” to be in Rathanna right now.
“We look forward to serving the community again and we will do our best to try to make sure that we keep everybody safe,” says Eric.
Visit storehouse-rathanna.ie
THEN: In 2017, we shared how Jane and Myles Lamberth moved lock, stock and surfboard to Strandhill, Co Sligo in 2010 to transform Shells Café into a foodie destination.
NOW: Jane and Myles opened a second business, Baker Boys, in July 2019. They have also added to their family, with Arlo (five) joined by Otis (almost two).
While they closed their doors on 14 March to play their part in flattening the curve, there was “lots of goodwill” from customers for online orders for their brown bread and granola. In May, the couple reopened Baker Boys to sell baked goods, coffee, home dinners and takeaways, followed by Shells on a takeaway basis too.
“We literally can’t keep croissants and coffee. People just want a small pleasure,” says Jane.
She says the biggest challenge is adapting how they do business in a safe way without losing a sense of hospitality. However, it’s very much a question of operating “week-to-week”.
“We might have a good June, July, August, September; but we still have to get through October, November, December,” says Jane, explaining that proposals such as interest-free loans do not appeal. “My business sustains itself and it’s something I would be very nervous of, going into debt just to stay open,” says Jane, who feels that funding towards capital works, such as extending outdoor seating, would be more useful.
But despite the challenges, the Lamberths are looking at the positives. “Things had gotten too fast, too competitive and I think it had gotten too much for a lot of people,” says Jane. “It’s time to definitely step back and get control of your business again.”
Visit shellscafe.com
Drumanilra Farm
THEN: In 2018, we met Liam and Justina Gavin, who left the UK in 2012 to take on a 40ac mixed farm in Roscommon, going on to develop Drumanilra Farm Kitchen burger bar, café and farm shop.
NOW: 2020 was set to be a big year, with plans for two new farm shops and restaurants in Carrick-on-Shannon and Strandhill by summer. Having closed their original café in Boyle last September for redevelopment, they had also received planning permission for a new build, to include a food hall, micro-brewery and teaching kitchen.
Due to COVID-19, these plans are on the backburner, but Justina is optimistic they will get Carrick-on-Shannon open by Christmas and go from there.
And while it’s not how they planned, in “some ways, it’s been a blessing in disguise” as it has allowed them to refocus on the farm, which they have built up to 300ac, growing their Dexter herd, and extending their market garden and other enterprises. Since lockdown, they have also developed their online shop to sell Dexter beef boxes and organic veg boxes, as well as produce from other farmers, with “collection” from their three shop sites at weekends.
“We’re basically processing an animal a week now and selling out of that every week,” says Justina, adding that they can now deliver nationwide by courier.
Long term, Justina believes they’ll benefit from using lockdown to take stock. “We actually had this time to really focus on the farm, the infrastructure, the supply chain, the quality of the products and the consistency of the products,” she says. “It was probably no harm that it was this way around.”
Visit www.drumanilra.ie
Upcycling furniture artist
THEN: We first met Joanne Condon in 2013, to talk about her furniture upcycling business, Kyle Lane in Clonmel. She has since become a regular contributor with her colourful and creative DIY series.
NOW: While Joanne started off selling upcycled furniture, demand for her DIY workshops meant that she closed her shop and went on the road teaching classes nationwide after the launch of her first book, Furniture Crush.
“I can see people coming in really nervous and leaving really confident and I think that is really an addictive feeling for me,” says Joanne, who lives on a dairy farm with her husband Vinny. “I can see somebody gaining confidence in one day and then going home and sending me a picture of the kitchen they would have painted at the weekend, and being so satisfied with doing that.”
March to August are usually Joanne’s busiest months for workshops, but while these are cancelled for the foreseeable future, she’s decided to embrace the uncertainty.
“It excites me really because I think, ‘I have to adapt, I have to change, what’s the best way that I can do that?’” says Joanne.
“I know there’s a lot of uncertainty – everyone is talking about the recession that’s going to come – but I suppose I don’t have that fear because my business at the start was built off a recession.”
In response, Joanne is planning to bring her workshops online in August, teaching everything from the importance of prepping and priming to techniques like creating geometric designs and applying gold-leaf.
She hopes that given the amount of time that people have spent at home during lockdown, that there will be a demand. “It’s so important to be in a home that you love being in,” she says.
Visit www.joannecondon.com
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