The coast of north Mayo and west Sligo may be blessed with stretches of white sandy beaches that provide far more than surfing, swimming and sunbathing. Whatever the weather, this wild Atlantic coast is a haven for dog people and their pals, as the miles of sandy beaches tire out our four-legged friends after bursts of salty sprints.
Looking inland from the sea shore, Nephin in Mayo and the Ox mountains of Sligo add a dramatic backdrop and it is this region that I explored on a recent staycation with my boxer-cross, Ruby.
Approaching from the N5, driving towards Swinford and Foxford, it is understandable that the challenge of Nephin, as it rises out of the landscape, would appeal to visitors with an appetite for adventure (and their furry companions).
After talking with local farmers, Irish Country Living heard that some dog owners have become complacent, resulting in incidents with sheep on Nephin. Because sheep are on the mountain over the summer, we found plenty of alternative places to take your dog and we wish to highlight that for the purposes of this feature, this dog-friendly staycation is intended for responsible dog owners, for whom their dog is part of the family.
Fishing trip, Lough Conn
Accessed from the North Mayo Heritage Centre and on the grounds of Enniscoe estate, Cloonamoyne Fishery (managed by Ian Wise and accompanied by his trusty spaniel, Jake) welcomes fellow dog owners for trips out on Lough Conn, as well as fishing enthusiasts.
Located on a sheltered corner of Lough Conn, in the shadows of Nephin mountain, here, you can fish for brown trout and pike. Being connected to the sea, salmon and sea trout come through too. cloonamoynefishery.com Prices from €70 for a half day, €130 full day.
Seaweed bath, Ocean Spa, Enniscrone
An alternative to a dip in the sea, a seaweed bath in Sligo will provide a restorative vitamin sea experience without braving the elements. In the cocoon-like atmosphere of the spa at the Ocean Sands Hotel, let the goodness of the locally harvested seaweed soak into you.
This experience was enjoyed knowing Ruby was snoozing in our room after running on the beach earlier. The Ocean Spa is open seven days a week from 10am to 6pm. Seaweed baths from €50.
Road Trip
Enniscrone – Lough Easkey – Attymass – Foxford – Enniscrone
A road trip that took in a loop of country roads at the foot of the Ox Mountains gave us a sense of coast and country around west Sligo.
Following the Wild Atlantic Way in the direction of Easkey, we took our takeaway coffee to Easkey Castle by car and walked the rocky coastline as far as Poll Gorm, the swimming pool built into the rocks by determined locals in the late 1960s. Alternatively, there is a linear walk from the village to the castle.
We then continued along the Wild Atlantic Way into Dromore West, passing the giant Spilt Rock along the way.
In Dromore, we made our way towards Lough Easkey, turning off the main road and heading in the direction of the Ox mountains. Once we passed forestry on the left-hand side, the road opened up to a wide expanse of bogland for a good 20km. With no sight of humans or houses, we stopped at a high point and this silence allowed the cuckoo to fill the air.
As the road dipped back down, we approached Lough Easkey and took pictures at the shoreline.
Taking a right at the end of this particularly scenic route will bring to you along Lough Talt and into Bonniconlon village, where by then, you have returned to Mayo.
At this point you could return to Enniscrone via Ballina, or head for the Fr Peyton Centre in Attymass. On the day we visited, the centre was closed but the landscaped grounds, which have been dedicated to peace in Ireland, made the detour worthwhile. We hear the seisiúns held here in July and August are very popular. fatherpeytoncentre.ie
We arrived into Foxford in time for a browse around the Woollen Mills and a late lunch in the café. foxford.com
The Ocean Sands Hotel, Main street, Enniscrone, Co Sligo
The Ocean Sands hotel is a name that comes up again and again amongst doggie people. After visiting for the first time with Ruby, I now know why. From the ease of parking right outside the front door, to the welcome Ruby got, to the accessibility to Enniscrone beach, this is a hotel that recognises the value of welcoming dogs and their well-behaved humans.
Ruby came with me to check in and we made our way to our room. Guests staying with their dog are allocated rooms with secure fencing and a patio area.
This is a great choice for the dog as it gives them time to relax, without distraction, in their new environment.
The layout of the hotel allows guests with their dogs to move from the lobby area to the terrace overlooking the sea and down the steps to the beach discretely.
While the location between the nearly 5km of sandy Enniscrone beach and the main street is ideal, it is the welcome of the staff at the Ocean Sands that ensures this is a hotel appreciated by people who like to travel with their dogs – and return again and again.
Rates from €179 (dinner, bed and breakfast)
Dog rate: €15 per night
Fuchsia cottage, Killala, Co Mayo
For longer stays, this quaint cottage down the lane from the magnificent Kilcummin back strand is located between Killala and Ballycastle. Whether you would like a week of peace and quiet, or to get out and explore the area, this is a haven if travelling with your dog. Booking through Airbnb; search for Fuchsia cottage, Mayo. From €100 per night.
Afternoon Tea
After checking in to our room and an investigation of Enniscrone sand dunes, we settled in to the lobby of the Ocean Sands for a delicious afternoon tea. Ruby was welcome to stretch out on the cool tiles under the table linen and a large bowl of water was left for her.
The presentation of this afternoon tea was equally matched by the flavour combinations and freshness of the sweet and savoury treats. Highlights included an airy chicken mousse finger sandwich and on the sweet plate, a mint-chocolate brownie. Afternoon tea costs €25.
For guests who wish to dine with their dogs at the hotel, dinner can be served in the lobby of the hotel.
On the road
If you are visiting the area on a self-catering basis or fancy a coffee and treat to take away, Pudding Row grocery, next door to Easkey pottery, is not to be missed.
Home-baked sausage rolls, quiche, bagels, fresh bread, tray bakes and goodies will provide you with a sustaining picnic for your explorations around west Sligo.
Foxford Fancy
Inland by the river Moy, up the stairs at Foxford woollen mills you will discover the bustling Foxford café. With substantial salads, hot and cold dishes and homemade cakes, pastries and desserts that would weaken even the most iron-willed of folk, this proved to be an ideal pit-stop on our road trip of the area. Honourable mention goes to the Old Salt coffee box in the carpark just off the N26 for their great coffee and dog-friendly welcome.
Local gifts
Easkey Pottery: Open seven days a week, next door to Pudding Row. Here, you will find Rosemary McGowan hand-crafting and firing every piece. You might even meet Leo, her beloved dog. Prices from €15 for a mug/€22 bowls.
Foxford Woollen Mills: Do we even need to introduce this well-known Irish brand? The tip here is upstairs you will find a 40% off section of quality bed linen, as well as a first look at their new bedding ranges.
Top Tips from the Locals
Karina Belavenceva from Easkey is completing a masters in biomedical science in Galway. At weekends, when she is not spending time with her two staffies, Mars and Milo, you can find her skateboarding.
“I like to bring my two boys on long beach walks when I am home at the weekend. Strandhill is definitely a highlight in Sligo for dogs because the beach is so big and you have the dunes too, which they love running in. Afterwards, Shells café is dog friendly and we sit outside there.”
Chris Donaghy is from Calry, Co Sligo. Usually found with a basketball or football close by, here he shares his top dog-friendly things to do in Yeat’s country.
“Fish and Bean at Rosses Point is hard to be beaten for the location right on the sea shore. You can bring your dog down there [to sit outside] and it is a lovely place to go jumping into the ocean, once the tide is in.
“Mullaghmore is another good spot for dogs, there is a nice walk around the harbour and headland with views across Donegal bay. Eithna’s by the Sea and Ahoy coffee box are both dog-friendly as is, Prospertor1 sea excursion trips.”
Beach Tip for Dogs
A lunging line purchased in my local farm shop is better value and stronger than a retractable lead for large breed dogs. This gives Ruby the freedom to run at the beach, while I can still safely control the distance she travels.