Although hedge-cutting season is still some time away, now is the ideal time for those considering buying a used machine to do so before the season commences.

Scouting the market early generally means a greater selection, or in some cases priority, on a tidy trade-in expected by the dealer.

Here we offer some tips and advice worth considering when buying a used hedge cutter.

However, if you’ve bought a hedge cutter in recent years, the advice below strongly relates to the general maintenance tips that any farmer or contractor should carry out and address before the ban lifts on 1 September.

Hedge cutters, given their nature, are made up of many moving parts, so good daily maintenance is key for both low running costs and a long working life. So, it is important that the time is spent in locating a well-minded example.

First of all, ask to see the hedge cutter running. This way you will be able to see for yourself if the hedge cutter is running smoothly and as it should.

Most reputable dealers will have their stock fully checked over and sold on the basis that it is working as it should, with a warranty provided in most cases.

Although it is good peace of mind to see and hear the machine in action, it is not essential if the hedge cutter is sold in fully working order with warranty.

Know your needs and budget

First of all, find out what your requirements are. Ask yourself questions such as do I need a power slew; what’s my furthest working width and what size machine will my tractor handle? Finally, what can you afford within your budget?

Hedge cutters, like all machinery, come in a range of sizes and specifications, aimed towards different customers.

The larger, higher-specification machines often tend to be ex-contractor machines and, therefore, have been subject to quite a bit of work in their time, albeit usually well maintained.

In terms of capabilities and specifications, these machines can sometimes seem like better value for money. This is largely down to the fact that there are not as many farmers in the market for these large high-specification machines, nor have they a suitable tractor.

These larger machines tend to use axle brackets; therefore, if not included, brackets will have to be acquired.

The smaller, more basic farmer-orientated machines tend to be in more demand and, therefore, prices generally tend to reflect this.

First glance

As with any machine, a lot can be told in a matter of seconds of viewing. Is there much cosmetic damage? Is there any rust? Has the paintwork badly faded?

If yes to any or all of these, this would generally indicate that the machine has spent quite a bit of time outdoors. Similar with hydraulic rams, if the chrome is pitted or rusted it can damage ram seals.

Check the solenoid and valve block that everything looks in good condition and has not been previously tampered with.

The arm should be checked over, looking closely for cracks and welds and wear in the pins.

Hydraulic pump and hydraulics

The heart of every hedge cutter is its hydraulic pump and gearbox. Before and after running the machine, check that both the gearbox and pump have no signs of oil leaks or weeps.

If there are obvious signs that the hydraulic pump has been worked at, for example paint removed off bolts, raise the question with the dealer as to why.

Check the level of the oil inside the oil tank. Watch out for the quality of the oil too. It should be a clear or golden colour and not milky or black.

That would indicate that the oil has been contaminated with water or dirt.

Check the condition of hydraulic fittings and hoses. Perished hoses or damaged fittings will need replacing.

When the cutter is running, move hydraulic rams to their full travel. All rams should hold their position in whatever position they are stopped in.

If a ram drops even slightly, chances are there is an internal leak. Providing the ram is not damaged, this is an inexpensive repair. The ram will just need to be removed and have its seal(s) replaced.

Arm and pivot points

Depending on the owner/operator, the boom or arm is often an area that receives quite a bit of abuse over its lifetime. Inspect carefully for signs of cracks or previous repairs.

If repaired, has it been well repaired and what might have been the cause in the first place? If badly repaired or if the machine has been strained or structurally affected, move on to the next machine.

On telescopic machines, extend the arm out to its full distance and check it thoroughly for wear or damage. Machines with longer reaches are often more prone to cracking or damage.

Check and assess the condition of all pins and bushings. Pins that have been well greased over their working life will more than likely still be tight and in good condition.

Check the condition of the head. It is not unusual for older machines to have had their head replaced at some point.

Cutter head

The cutting head, being the point of contact with the hedge, generally leaves it subject to the majority of the abuse. This is one of the most important areas to check over and witness running.

Before running the hedge cutter, examine the rotor for missing flails or broken hangers. Look closely and inspect for wear on each flail hanger. Loose flail bolts over time will elongate the holes, which could lead the hanger(s) needing replacing.

When the cutter head is running, there should be no vibrations if all flails are present and bearings are in good condition. Missing flails or a damaged rotor will cause vibrations.

Not only will the vibrations leave the hedge cutter uncomfortable to operate, but over time they can cause other problems, such as a cracked canopy or cause other components to become loose.

An unbalanced rotor will require professional attention. Rotor bearings should be in good order with no play. The drive motor should be free from oil leaks.

Check the condition of the flails and take this into account when buying. Depending on the type, flails will cost anywhere in the region of €10 to €15 each plus VAT, which works out as expensive if the full set needs to be replaced.

It is important to note that the rotor is fitted with matching flails. Different types will have different weights and if not the same throughout then this could lead to an imbalance in the rotor.

Check the overall condition of the canopy and ensure rubber flaps are fitted to prevent or absorb debris from being launched outwards. These inexpensive flaps provide a line of defence and are worth having fitted if not done already.

Larger contractor spec or long-reach machines often tend to be equipped with axle brackets which have to be bought separately to suit the tractor.

Controls

Controls, whether the mechanical cable type or the more modern electronic type, should ideally be tested fully, trying all functions to their limits.

Mechanical cables should be moving freely. Electric controls should be moving as intended and smoothly also.

Dry storage is essential for any controls, especially electronic. Electrical connections that have been exposed to moisture will quickly corrode and stop working. Electrical faults can often be tedious and require both knowledge and time to resolve.

If the hedge cutter you are looking at buying requires axle brackets, enquire as to how much brackets to suit your specific tractor will cost to prevent any unwanted surprises.