Foodie travel: take me to Istanbul

As I write this, I’m slightly emotional as the world goes into a COVID-19 lockdown. Hopefully this will not be for long – if we all make an effort to abide to World Health Organization (WHO) guidelines on no travel, social distancing, and self-isolation. For now, we must stay strong. We will eventually get to travel, see family and friends, and eat out again.

When I think of Turkey, I think of its cuisine: rose, pistachios, walnuts, lamb, aubergine, rice, strained yoghurt, fragrant spices, its unique coffee and tea, honey, baklava and of course, Turkish delights.

I’ve loved Turkish cuisine for years; learning about it through recipes documented by renowned food writers like Claudia Roden. Recently, I’ve been following the exciting journey of Ahmet Dede, an Irish chef who returned to his native Turkey last Autumn for three months to carry out some research for his new adventure.

Ahmet was the head chef of Mews, a Michelin-star restaurant in Baltimore, which sadly closed last season. He is currently opening his own restaurant, when COVID-19 allows, which will showcase his Turkish heritage through Irish ingredients. Follow him on Instagram (@ahmet_dede_) to learn more about Turkish food culture and how you can experience it in Ireland.

As for Istanbul, no other city in the world sits on two continents; nowhere else has been the capital of two empires. Home to over 15 million people and sprawled across the Asian and European sides of the Bosphorus Strait, Turkey’s largest city is unique and breathtakingly picturesque. Founded by the Greeks and, later, capital of the Christian Byzantine Empire, Istanbul blossomed at the heart of the Ottoman Empire following its capture by the Turks in 1453.

Here I have documented my recommendations on how to get there, where to stay, what to eat and see. It is certainly a city where you can spend a long weekend, but my advice is to stay at least four days and maybe venture out of the city a bit.

Under normal circumstances, Turkish Airlines (turkishirlines.com) fly direct to Istanbul twice a day from Dublin. It takes about four hours to travel; snacks and drinks are included in the ticket price. As it was our first time to visit Istanbul and we were arriving at 12.30am (local time), we booked a driver to meet us at the airport (€30). Many hotels can recommend a service to use.

During your stay, use public transport – especially the tram – to get to the old town. This will allow you to move quickly and cheaply; saving time. To use all public transport in Istanbul (boats, subways, buses, trams, funiculars) you will need the magnetic card (Istanbul Kart). You can find it in small kiosks near all metro stations, piers, or bus stations. Be advised, most only take cash (Turkish lira; 100 lira equals to around €15). Uber is in operation in Istanbul and is considered both inexpensive and safe.

Where to stay

Like many, I use booking engines and online travel guides to search for interesting and safe places to stay. I would recommend the Novotel Bosphorus (novotelistanbulbosphorus.com) or The Galata Istanbul (thegalataistanbul.com). Both are central and cost around €80 per night, inclusive of breakfast and taxes.

Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) is Istanbul’s most famous street, attracting nearly three million visitors every day. This elegant pedestrian avenue is 1.4km long and houses the most beautiful Ottoman-era buildings in the city. If you are based near the Galata Bridge, on the Northern shore of the Golden Horn (where the above hotels are based), take the underground tram (Tünel, a historic subway funicular) to the avenue. It is the second-oldest urban rail line in the world, after the London Underground.

The Galata Bridge – walking across the bridge is a magical experience; night or day. If you can, walk it at sunset. During the day, the bridge carries a constant flow of people as well as some hopeful anglers; trailing their lines into the waters below. Underneath the bridge, you’ll find restaurants and cafes serving drinks and food all day and night.

Hagia Sophia – Once the largest church in the world, this is one of Istanbul’s greatest architectural feats and was an important monument for both the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires. Originally a church, later a mosque and now a museum, the building showcases heritage from its Christian and Islamic eras. It’s a great place to visit to get a sense of the city’s history. Buy tickets in advance as the queues can be long. You can get a local, verified guide at the door who can fast track the queue and give you a personalised tour. | hagiasophia.com

Topkapi Palace – Just around the corner from the Hagia Sophia, this enormous palace was the imperial residence of the Ottoman Sultans for almost 400 years. It is full of colourful stories and artefacts. A visit gives you a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the Ottoman emperors. It is based around four courts; each telling a story of how the empire was run. | topkapopalace.com

The Blue Mosque – This impressive mosque has six minarets and the interior is covered in blue iznik tiles, hence its name. Besides being a tourist attraction, it is also an active mosque. When visiting the mosque, be sure to take off your shoes. There is no charge to enter and if you are a woman, you must wear something to cover your hair (a scarf will do). Please keep in mind: it is closed to non-worshippers during five daily prayers. | bluemosque.co

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir – Even if you don’t like Turkish delight, I would give them a second chance and try them at Haci Bekir; the shop where they were invented. There are many forms and flavours of Turkish delight, like rosewater, pistachio, lemon, and walnut. The founder of the company invented these treats in 1777 and then introduced them to the Ottoman Palace. A good Turkish delight should not be too sweet or stick to your teeth. Pop into the store on Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) and sample their delights. The staff are very friendly and many speak English.

One word of advice: always try to book a restaurant table in advance as Istanbulites really love to dine out. That said, there are many great, casual places to eat throughout the city where you can just drop in. The food in Istanbul caters to everyone; with lots of options for vegetable and meat-lovers alike. Here are just a few options:

Street food

Food carts are dotted around the city; selling local fare. Look for charred sweetcorn (misir), roasted chestnuts (kestane), broiled or roasted meat – generally cow, sheep or chicken – on a large vertical skewer (döner or kebap) or delicious flaky pastries (börek).

Pandeli

Recently re-opened in 2018, this restaurant has a long-standing history in the city, with generations of the same family running it, in various forms, since the early 1900s. Here is where you will get a feel of what Turkish cuisine has to offer: simple, accessible and full of flavour. Try the rice-stuffed vine leaves, beans in olive oil, marinated aubergine, courgette fritters, strained yoghurt and the roasted lamb with traditional seasoned rice.

pandeli.com.tr

Neolokal

If I could recommend one evening experience while in Istanbul, it’s Neolokal, which is based in the Salt Galata cultural complex. This restaurant offers spectacular views of the Strait through its floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor terrace. Chef Maksut Askar and his team take inspiration from Mother Nature; focusing on his Turkish heritage and creating local and global classics. The drinks list is excellent; with delicious cocktails and Turkish wines.

neolokal.com/en

Foxy Karakoy

First of its kind in Istanbul reflecting the work of chef Maksut Askar (of Neolokal) and local wine expert Levon Bagis, this natural wine bar is filled with only local grape varieties and delicious snacks. An inviting space to suit everyone.

followthefoxy.com

Murver Restaurant and Bar

Located on the rooftop of Novotel Bosphorus, this is a place to sit and watch the lively bustle of the historic peninsula, Topkapi and the sea.

The cocktails are wonderful here, and very inventive, using as many local ingredients as possible. The restaurant itself specialises in cooking over open flame.

murverrestaurant.com

Turk

If you are looking for something unique, Turk by chef Fatih Tutak, opened in December 2019 and is a modern restaurant which showcases the diversity of Turkey’s vast landscapes and seas.

Expect to be wowed the minute you walk in the door with the service, decor, drinks menu (and trolley), and the craft pieces that come paired with each dish.

turkft.com

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