One of the most important machines on the farm during winter is the diet feeder, as it is being used to mix feed for the housed stock. Diet feeders come in two designs, horizontal (paddle) feeders and vertical (tub) feeders. Although they use different designs, the job they do is the same. I am going to look at a basic checklist you should carry out to avoid potential problems and keep your feeder working to its full potential this winter.
1. Blades: These must be kept sharp and in good condition to chop the material efficiently. Blunt or damaged blades will take more power and use more diesel, so it is important to keep them right.
2. Augers: Tub feeders use vertical augers to move material up and down as well as around the chamber. With time and continuous use the metal will wear and become thinner and weaker. The augers should be checked for their thickness and repaired if necessary. The auger flights, which move the material, should be in good condition and not bent or broken.
3. Side wall: The same principle applies to the side wall of any feeder. It must be checked for thickness and cracks regularly, especially around the discharge openings where the most amount of material passes. There are many specialists offering re-line services that can be supplied as kits or fitted on-site, dependant on your requirements. These can start at around €800 plus VAT.
4. Paddles: Horizontal feeders use paddles instead of augers to move the material around the feeder in order for it to chop and mix. If a foreign object happened to fall into the feeder these may become strained or bent. Check that all the paddles are straight and if the distance between them and the feeder wall is correct. This gap is normally made up of a rubber buffer which wears over time and may need to be replaced.
5. Hydraulic rams: Check that all hydraulic rams are in good condition and not leaking. The chrome shaft on the ram should be greased or retracted when the feeder is being stored outside for a long period of time. Corroded or scored chrome shafts will damage the ram seals and cause them to leak. This is a problem for both oil loss and contamination in the animal feed.
- 6. Hydraulic pipes: Check all the hydraulic pipes and fittings to make sure they are not leaking or broken. Pay particular attention to points where pipes may become pinched or worn for signs of cracks and potential problems. Replacing worn pipes that are not leaking will reduce the chance of a breakdown during operation and its associated environmental implications from the oil spillage.
- 7. Hinge points: Check all hinge points to make sure that they are working efficiently and correctly. All hinge points should be kept clean and greased regularly in order for them to move freely. Grease nipples should be checked to make sure that they are not blocked, allowing the grease can get to where it is needed.
- 8. Hitch: Due to the fact that the diet feeder is used primarily around the farmyard, the hitch is subjected to increased wear from all the twisting and turning around feedways and sheds. It is vital that the hitch is maintained correctly as it is the only link between the feeder and the tractor. Worn or damaged hitches must not be repaired, they must to be replaced with a new one for safety. To help keep them from wearing excessively, grease can be used on both the ring and the pickup hitch.
- 9. PTO: Power is delivered to the diet feeder via a PTO shaft. PTO shafts must be fitted with their safety covers and safety chains at all times. Damaged or faulty covers and chains must be replaced. In order to keep the shaft running smoothly it should be regularly greased and the universal joint checked for signs of wear or play. For added protection to the driveline, most feeders will have a shear bolt or slip clutch, these should be checked to ensure they are working correctly.
- 10. Bearings and seals: All bearings should be checked for their condition by either rotating them, if possible, and listening for signs of roughness which may indicate a potential problem, or by looking for excessive movement. All grease points for the bearing should be checked that they are working. Seals around the bearings and shafts must be undamaged and in place. Damaged seals can let material and meal into the bearings or chains and cause wear due to the oil and grease being absorbed.
- 11. Gearbox: All gearboxes on the feeder should be regularly serviced by changing the oil according to the manufacturers’ specified intervals, which are normally between 250 and 500 hours. They must be refilled with the recommended oil grade. Good practice is to service the gearboxes before every feeding season regardless of hours to avoid any potential problems.
- 12. Chains and sprockets: If the feeder is fitted with chains and sprockets they must be closely inspected for signs of wear. All chains will wear, but badly maintained chains will also wear the sprockets which they run on. Chains should be kept lubricated regularly and adjusted to the manufacturers’ specified length.
- 13. Automatic lubrication system: If the feeder is fitted with an automatic lubrication system, such as an oiler, it should always be kept topped up in order to stop any dirt getting in and blocking the pipes. All the pipes and discharge points should be checked to ensure they are working correctly and not blocked.
- 14. Weighing system: All diet feeders use a weighing system to determine the amount of each material to mix to create the desired ration. This is normally done using weigh bars that detect flex and convert it into a reading on the computer. Cracks in the weigh bar brackets will cause them to give an inaccurate reading and should be examined regularly.
- 15. Clock: The diet feeders’ clock must be checked and calibrated to insure it is accurate. This can be done by zeroing the reading and adding a fixed weight, eg the tractor front weight, to check that it is reading correctly.
- 16. Wiring: Rats and other animals often take a fancy to the wiring on a machine such as the diet feeder. All the wiring should be checked over regularly for signs of damage and then repaired or replace as necessary.
- 17. Lights: For safety, all the lights on the diet feeder should be working regardless of whether it is on the public road or not.
- 18. Wheels and tyres: All the wheels and tyres should be checked for their condition. Tyres should be examined for signs of cracks or cuts and the air pressure checked and regulated between all the wheels. Good practice is to regularly check all wheels for tightness.
- 19. Brakes: Not all diet feeders are fitted with brakes, but if it they are fitted they must be checked and adjusted regularly to ensure that they are working to their full potential.
One of the most important machines on the farm during winter is the diet feeder, as it is being used to mix feed for the housed stock. Diet feeders come in two designs, horizontal (paddle) feeders and vertical (tub) feeders. Although they use different designs, the job they do is the same. I am going to look at a basic checklist you should carry out to avoid potential problems and keep your feeder working to its full potential this winter.
1. Blades: These must be kept sharp and in good condition to chop the material efficiently. Blunt or damaged blades will take more power and use more diesel, so it is important to keep them right.
2. Augers: Tub feeders use vertical augers to move material up and down as well as around the chamber. With time and continuous use the metal will wear and become thinner and weaker. The augers should be checked for their thickness and repaired if necessary. The auger flights, which move the material, should be in good condition and not bent or broken.
3. Side wall: The same principle applies to the side wall of any feeder. It must be checked for thickness and cracks regularly, especially around the discharge openings where the most amount of material passes. There are many specialists offering re-line services that can be supplied as kits or fitted on-site, dependant on your requirements. These can start at around €800 plus VAT.
4. Paddles: Horizontal feeders use paddles instead of augers to move the material around the feeder in order for it to chop and mix. If a foreign object happened to fall into the feeder these may become strained or bent. Check that all the paddles are straight and if the distance between them and the feeder wall is correct. This gap is normally made up of a rubber buffer which wears over time and may need to be replaced.
5. Hydraulic rams: Check that all hydraulic rams are in good condition and not leaking. The chrome shaft on the ram should be greased or retracted when the feeder is being stored outside for a long period of time. Corroded or scored chrome shafts will damage the ram seals and cause them to leak. This is a problem for both oil loss and contamination in the animal feed.
- 6. Hydraulic pipes: Check all the hydraulic pipes and fittings to make sure they are not leaking or broken. Pay particular attention to points where pipes may become pinched or worn for signs of cracks and potential problems. Replacing worn pipes that are not leaking will reduce the chance of a breakdown during operation and its associated environmental implications from the oil spillage.
- 7. Hinge points: Check all hinge points to make sure that they are working efficiently and correctly. All hinge points should be kept clean and greased regularly in order for them to move freely. Grease nipples should be checked to make sure that they are not blocked, allowing the grease can get to where it is needed.
- 8. Hitch: Due to the fact that the diet feeder is used primarily around the farmyard, the hitch is subjected to increased wear from all the twisting and turning around feedways and sheds. It is vital that the hitch is maintained correctly as it is the only link between the feeder and the tractor. Worn or damaged hitches must not be repaired, they must to be replaced with a new one for safety. To help keep them from wearing excessively, grease can be used on both the ring and the pickup hitch.
- 9. PTO: Power is delivered to the diet feeder via a PTO shaft. PTO shafts must be fitted with their safety covers and safety chains at all times. Damaged or faulty covers and chains must be replaced. In order to keep the shaft running smoothly it should be regularly greased and the universal joint checked for signs of wear or play. For added protection to the driveline, most feeders will have a shear bolt or slip clutch, these should be checked to ensure they are working correctly.
- 10. Bearings and seals: All bearings should be checked for their condition by either rotating them, if possible, and listening for signs of roughness which may indicate a potential problem, or by looking for excessive movement. All grease points for the bearing should be checked that they are working. Seals around the bearings and shafts must be undamaged and in place. Damaged seals can let material and meal into the bearings or chains and cause wear due to the oil and grease being absorbed.
- 11. Gearbox: All gearboxes on the feeder should be regularly serviced by changing the oil according to the manufacturers’ specified intervals, which are normally between 250 and 500 hours. They must be refilled with the recommended oil grade. Good practice is to service the gearboxes before every feeding season regardless of hours to avoid any potential problems.
- 12. Chains and sprockets: If the feeder is fitted with chains and sprockets they must be closely inspected for signs of wear. All chains will wear, but badly maintained chains will also wear the sprockets which they run on. Chains should be kept lubricated regularly and adjusted to the manufacturers’ specified length.
- 13. Automatic lubrication system: If the feeder is fitted with an automatic lubrication system, such as an oiler, it should always be kept topped up in order to stop any dirt getting in and blocking the pipes. All the pipes and discharge points should be checked to ensure they are working correctly and not blocked.
- 14. Weighing system: All diet feeders use a weighing system to determine the amount of each material to mix to create the desired ration. This is normally done using weigh bars that detect flex and convert it into a reading on the computer. Cracks in the weigh bar brackets will cause them to give an inaccurate reading and should be examined regularly.
- 15. Clock: The diet feeders’ clock must be checked and calibrated to insure it is accurate. This can be done by zeroing the reading and adding a fixed weight, eg the tractor front weight, to check that it is reading correctly.
- 16. Wiring: Rats and other animals often take a fancy to the wiring on a machine such as the diet feeder. All the wiring should be checked over regularly for signs of damage and then repaired or replace as necessary.
- 17. Lights: For safety, all the lights on the diet feeder should be working regardless of whether it is on the public road or not.
- 18. Wheels and tyres: All the wheels and tyres should be checked for their condition. Tyres should be examined for signs of cracks or cuts and the air pressure checked and regulated between all the wheels. Good practice is to regularly check all wheels for tightness.
- 19. Brakes: Not all diet feeders are fitted with brakes, but if it they are fitted they must be checked and adjusted regularly to ensure that they are working to their full potential.
- 20. Access: All modern feeders are fitted with a ladder of some description for easier access to check the inside of the feeder. In a lot of cases these ladders are bent and broken, which creates a hazard of slipping or falling when being used. They should be kept clean and straight in order to provide safe and easy access when needed.
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