Snowberry appears in hedgerows and woodland all over the country, and not just in gardens. It is so commonplace that it could be assumed to be a native plant, but it is not. It is native to western North America, where it thrives in woodland and rocky ground, forming dense colonies of twiggy stems. It was planted in gardens and as cover for game birds in wooded areas of large estates, and it spread from there to hedgerows.

This year, there are outstanding displays of berries, which is simply a follow-on from two summers of exceptional growth, not least plenty of rainfall. After a good summer, when the plant has had a chance to make good growth, it can put much of that growth into the production of more than the usual complement of berries.

The berries are carried in bunches of about 10, though often less. In the bunches, the berries vary in size, the first formed usually being the largest, the last formed the smallest, as nutrients become scarcer. The largest are a little more than 1cm across, the smallest less than half that, but they still add to the show.

The bushes look their best when almost all the leaves have fallen, but for a few yellow ones that hang on to set off crystalline white, fresh and brilliant. Later even these few leaves will be stripped away, and only the berries remain on the twigs, making a great display into late winter. The berries are quite soft and squash easily, so they eventually deteriorate and fall off. Although the berries are not very heavy, a good crop is enough to cause the very light twigs to lean over.

Snowberry is Symphoricarpos albus, related to that other great woodland opportunist, the honeysuckle or woodbine, which is why it readily finds a suitable home here. Unlike woodbine, which has large flowers, the rounded pink flowers of snowberry are very small, insignificant. Woodbine is a climber, while snowberry is a thicket-former, spreading outwards by means of suckering roots. It soon fills the soil with roots, so that any competing plant, even large trees, finds it difficult to out-compete in these conditions of drought, shade and root competition.

Part of its root system is very fibrous, close to the soil surface, and quickly absorbs rainwater when it falls. Being a tough competitor makes it a survivor and the massed thickets of spindly shoots are often very long-lived and remarkably robust. Although surviving tough conditions, growth and berrying are reduced by too much shade and competition.

It is not really a shrub for a mixed border, as it will sucker its way outwards, but it can be used with other shrubs, where it fits nicely into an approximation of its native woodland. Established plants are weed-free, so it is a good plant for odd corners, not a place for a star turn.

Generally, most snowberry grown is white-berried, but there are some very attractive other kinds. Magic Berry is low and bushy, with rose-pink berries. Hancock is low and spreading, often rooting where it touches the soil, and it has pink berries.

Mother of Pearl has a pretty drooping habit and white berries. White Hedge has a compact growth habit and is upright with white fruits. These hybrids have also been bred to be generally tidier in their growth habit and not as inclined to sucker at the roots and spread outwards, and an individual plant need not become a thicket. Snowberry is hardy and grows in any ordinary soil that is well-drained. CL

Tidy vegetable gardens

The lowest point of the growing year will be reached in the next few weeks and the vegetable garden is at its most bare, or at least, it should be. Some vegetables can be overwintered outdoors, such as parsnips and leeks. Swede turnips are often left in the ground, and carrots and beetroot too, especially if covered against frost. Spring cabbage, winter cabbage, spring cauliflower and purple sprouting broccoli all overwinter for later picking.

All remaining spent crops, picked or gone to seed, should be removed to the compost heap. Any kind of plant material can be used in compost, except roots carrying disease, such as white rot of onion, blighted potaotes or clubroot of the cabbage family. Leafy material is generally alright, even with disease, as it will rot away, leaf diseases not being as persistent as soil-borne pathogens. Removing old crops helps to break the ‘green bridge’ to fresh infections of new crops.

Trees, shrubs and roses

The planting season for deciduous bare-root trees has begun and hedges, shelter belts and areas of woodland within gardens can be planted in the coming weeks. Bare-root trees are less expensive. Wait until spring in windy areas if the young plants might be severely wind-rocked.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Fruit trees and bushes of all kinds can be planted, after good soil preparation. The vegetable area can be dug over if the ground is not too wet, or at least have weeds controlled so that they do not go on growing all winter and shedding seeds. Perennial herbs can be divided and re-planted.

Flowers

Spring bedding plants, such as pansies and primroses, can still be planted, both in pots and the open ground. Overgrown perennial flowers could be lifted, divided and re-planted in good conditions to keep them under control, taking the opportunity to get rid of weeds at the same time.

Lawns

Lawn mosskillers can still be applied in good, dry weather, especially in shady areas – sulphate of iron will blacken the grass for a time. If there is a dry spell, and the ground is not soggy, the opportunity should be taken to mow the grass. Algae on paths can be slippery – use path cleaners.

Greenhouse and house plants

Make sure that house plants are away from sources of heat and not close to single-glazed windows at night. They should not be standing in water either and should be getting reasonably good light. Watering in the greenhouse should be at a minimum, and check for pests on greenhouse plants.