If you have any family connection with north Tipperary the first place to visit is the North Tipperary Genealogy Centre behind the Courthouse on Kickham Street in Nenagh. Nora O’Meara has been the genealogist there for 30 years and what she doesn’t know about the families of north Tipperary is not worth knowing. She has sourced a massive collection of family records, all computerised and available to view.
“We have lots of overseas visitors of Irish descent dropping in. In one case I received a letter from a US judge saying her brother and nephews were in Ireland and asked could they visit. They knew they had connections with the Silvermines. As it happened I’m familiar with that area and I knew exactly where their ancestors had lived.
“I brought them to where their family had come from and the tears just ran down the man’s face. To think that both our ancestors had probably walked down the lane together 100 years earlier; it’s so satisfying when you can make that connection for someone.” Family research is undertaken on a small fee basis.
For more call 067-33850 or email tipperarynorthgenealogy@eircom.net
One thing I never expected to find in Tipperary was a weaving business dating back to at least 1893 and still going strong. 
They also have a factory shop at the mill where there’s value to be had in all the above as well as the complete range of fabrics and tweeds that are woven on site. Not forgetting the seconds. While tours are not possible, exceptions may be made for those in fashion design or fabrics. Do make the arrangement before you visit.
For more on the mill and factory shop call 067-24278 or check out www.johnhanly.com
As I was facing west and it was a bright sunny morning what better treat than a cruise along the River Shannon and on to Lough Derg. I took the road to Portroe with its great views of the lake. It’s well worth stopping in Garrykennedy where you are guaranteed something good to eat in Larkins and Dromineer is another nice spot.
The villages of Killaloe and Ballina are separated by a narrow bridge which can be a bit of a bottle neck. It’s an area steeped in history – Brian Boru was born in Killaloe in 940 and there’s a cathedral dating back to 1180 that was built by Donal Mór O Brien.
Ballina is the third fastest growing village in the country having increased its population from 700 in the 1990’s to over 3,300 today.
Killaloe River Cruises began life after a chat around the kitchen table of local grocers – the Whelan family. That was in 1991 and they started out with one boat for four people. Today James Whelan operates two boats, one that carries 80 people and another that carries 12.
The cruise was very relaxing and the water was so calm you could hardly feel the boat move. If the scenery, birdlife and history don’t interest you, then the magnificent houses along the shore will leave you goggle eyed if not a little jealous.
James says he can see the impact of the EU Water Directive on the lake and river. “The kingfishers are back and so too are the grebes. A local angler recently caught a 14lb brown trout – that wouldn’t have happened in the 1990s.”
For those who fancy stretching their legs there’s the Lough Derg Way, a marked loop walk running to 64 kilometres on the Tipperary side and on the Clare side there’s the less strenuous eight kilometre Ballycuggaran walk. Fares are €14 per person with children €7.50 and you can get a family ticket for €40.
Call 086-8140559 or visit www.killaloerivercruises.com
If you are travelling with children or teenagers then I reckon they’d be impressed by the Governor’s House that’s part of Nenagh jail and the cell block that radiates off it. During the famine, the poor would steal with the intention of being locked up here because in the jail they were entitled to a pint of milk and a pound of bread twice a day.
Back then, public executions were like what festivals are today, and there were 17 hangings here over 50 years. Our guide Ger Maher, was so vivid in his description of a hanging, that when he pulled the noose from the ceiling, my legs nearly went from under me. Talk about getting a fright. Tours can be arranged on a drop in basis or call 067-33850.
For more check www.facebook.com/Nenaghheritage
Among those executed in Nenagh jail were the brothers William and Daniel Cormack who were hanged for the murder of John Ellis in 1867, a murder they didn’t commit.
They are buried in Loughmore and if you visit be sure to drop into The Cottage.
This shop, post office and café is a community owned co-operative that’s managed and run by the people of Loughmore. It’s a fabulous example of community spirit and is open from early morning for breakfast.
There will be more about this in the Ploughing edition of Irish Country Living.
Contact 0504-35846 www.facebook.com/thecottageloughmore
If you want a good view of Nenagh and the surrounding countryside, test yourself on the 101 steps that bring you to the top of Nenagh Castle in the heart of the town.
Built in 1200 by the Butlers of Ormond, the castle was destroyed in 1690 in the Williamite Wars. It was left derelict until the Office of Public Works (OPW) took ownership in the early 2000s and the impressively restored keep was opened to the public in 2012. Entry is free and the view makes the climb really worthwhile.
With all that activity where better to eat than Country Choice on Kenyon Street. You need never fear of eating alone here as Peter Ward will introduce you to everyone and before you know it two hours have passed and it’s time to go on the road again. I had the warm toasted olive oil ciabatta with farmhouse cheese, dry cured ham, roasted vegetables, leaves and homemade relish. All for €7.50 and totally yummy.
Contact 067-32 596 or www.facebook.com/countrychoice
I stayed with Tom and Brid O’Brien in Cashel Lodge, just a 10-minute walk along a public path from the Rock of Cashel and the town itself. As well as the B&B, the O’Briens have a camping park on the farm. Driving in the gate you could only be impressed by the lovely gardens and how well everything looked. Despite being so close to town it was utterly peaceful.
Breakfast was superb with lots of fresh fruit, freshly made scones and breads, a big variety of artisan cheeses, hams, salamis and salmon. It’s a great place to stay and the price of a double room starts at €95.
Call 062 61003 or email info@cashel-lodge.com
Dinner was at Chez Hans, a restaurant with a reputation for consistently great food for 51 years. And it didn’t fail to impress. A starter of smoked Dingle salmon, with pickled carrot, horseradish cream, cucumber pearls and pea shoots tasted as good as it looked and cost €12. I didn’t leave a scrap of my main course of free-range chicken, celeriac, creamed morels, asparagus, pickled walnuts and Madeira sauce with seasonal vegetables, costing €28. The ethos of Chez Hans is to serve good food, locally sourced at a good price. And that’s what it does.
Call 062-61177 or visit www.chezhans.net
You can’t tour Tipperary and not visit the Rock of Cashel. It has to be one of the most iconic sights in the country. And there’s even more reason to visit now with the re-opening of Cormac’s Chapel last year. It’s amazing to see 14th Century fresco paintings revealed for the first time in centuries. Visitor numbers are strictly limited so call in advance for tickets. My advice is to join a guided tour and get real value from your visit. A must see.
Call 062-61437 or visit www.cashel.ie
Another new addition to the tourism product in Tipperary is the Suir Blueway that runs between Cahir and Carrick-on-Suir.
I parked up in Kilsheelin and did my 10,000 steps along the wide cycle and pedestrian pathway while watching anglers, family groups out for a cycle and canoeists paddle along the river. It all felt positively European. There are super information booklets on all you can do along the Suir Way.
More information on www.tipperary.com
I could write an entire feature about what’s to see and do in Fethard but space doesn’t allow. A guided tour (contact the Historical Society at 086-350 2360 or 087-930 5232) is highly recommended. This is very much a lived-in town with 90% of its medieval walls intact and is full of character and heritage.
The Fethard Horse Country Experience which was opened two years ago is spectacular. It will grab and hold your attention for hours.
And for a really special experience on Tuesdays and Thursdays from the end of May to 12 September you can book a joint tour of the Horse Country Experience and a visit to Coolmore, home to some of the best racehorses the world has ever seen.
The joint tour costs €10 for adults and you book through 052-6130439 or www.thcexperience.ie
You will get a great welcome in McCarthy’s pub where the fifth generation of the family now runs the business.
The fruity orange and coconut chicken with rice and poppadum for €13.50 is delicious. Further up the street Dooks Fine Foods opens its doors at 7.30am for tea and coffee with great food served from 8am.
The Ormond Castle in Carrick-on-Suir is a real sparkler when it comes to the hidden gems of Tipperary.
It’s the finest example of an Elizabethan manor house in the country. If you want to see spectacular decorative plasterwork this is the place to visit. A guided tour lasts an hour and is well worth the time .
Call 051-640787 or email ormondcastle@opw.ie