I love my children, but family holidays are often a lot of work with little opportunity for relaxation. Parents of smallies need to ensure they are going somewhere kid-friendly, with opportunities for all-ages activities, swimming and foods the kids will enjoy. We need to be organised when it comes to packing – especially if you are planning to fly and have luggage restrictions. Even just getting to your destination can be a huge undertaking.
This past summer, I think we found the right balance on our holiday to Lake Garda in northern Italy. My husband and I enjoyed ourselves as much as the kids. While we indulged in pizza and gelato every day, the adults also tried delicious local cheeses, meats and wine. We stayed in a self-catering cabin on a campsite with plenty of swimming pools and activities. It wasn’t perfect – what family holiday ever is? – but we made memories to last a lifetime.
This was our first family foray into Italy and while we did our research, we weren’t quite sure what to expect. Lake Garda is a well-known holiday hotspot and would be teeming with tourists. It’s always a gamble: will it be as picturesque in real life? Will it be overrun with tourist trap-restaurants and gimmicky gift shops? I’m not exaggerating when I say Lake Garda dismissed every pre-conceived notion I had. From refreshing swims in the crystal-clear lake to day trips to nearby towns and cities, we filled our days with the perfect combination of relaxation and activity.
Lake Garda straddles the Lombardy and Verona administrative regions of northern Italy. The northern half of the lake is set amongst the dramatic backdrop of the Italian Alps, while the southern half is easily accessed by the Verona-Milan motorway. Despite being a mountainous region, the climate here is Mediterranean-esque with deliciously hot summers, lush gardens, rolling vineyards and gentle breezes. We visited at the tail-end of August, and despite a few intense thunderstorms, the weather was hot and sunny.
Maeve (12) and Janine Kennedy wait at the lake ferry terminal in Portese, Lake Garda. \ Janine Kennedy
Getting there
To access Lake Garda, you can fly into Verona or Milan. The lake is less than an hour’s drive from either. Both airports are served by Ryanair and Aer Lingus with flights running from around €95 at peak season. We flew into Milan-Bergamo with Ryanair and used their Family Plus option. With Family Plus, we were able to pay in instalments and had a decent luggage allowance including a 20kg checked bag, a 10kg bag per person and the usual carry-on.
We made a huge mistake and decided against renting a car for our week’s stay. Having researched extensively, we really believed we could enjoy our holiday while making use of the local bus, train and lake ferry system. Within 30 minutes of our arrival, we realised this would be impossible.
We decided it would be best to rent a car for three days and have it delivered to our accommodation. To return to the airport at the end of our trip, we paid handsomely for a transfer. These things incurred extra costs we didn’t anticipate, so when we return, we will be including car rental costs into our budget. Lesson learned. Lake Garda is beautiful, but not as well connected as we believed it to be.
Accommodation- self-catering and camping: there are lots of affordable, family-friendly options for self-catering located throughout the Lake Garda region. We chose to stay at Camping Eden (camping-eden.it) in Portese, and we were happy with our decision. Nearby Salò is a stunning town, with an interesting museum and plenty of shops and restaurants.
We booked our stay through Eurocamp and for less than €1,500 (for a week’s stay), we were provided with a two-bedroom cabin with covered veranda and a barbeque. The kitchen was decently equipped, though the space was run-down and incredibly tight for a family of five. Our kids were not happy with the lack of Wi-Fi on site, but we parents were just fine with the digital detox. Evenings were spent playing cards, and when we weren’t out on adventures, we were in one of their two pools.
The campsite is located on a steep incline. Our cabin was at the very top of the hill, requiring a difficult climb several times per day. When you consider the amount of cheese, wine and pizza I consumed throughout the week, the walk was probably justified. The site also includes a playground, games room, restaurant and a small shop with basic snacks and groceries. On most days, there are arts and crafts classes for kids.
This campsite also features a pebble beach on the lake with a pier perfect for practising your cannonball. We would end up in the lake each evening to rinse off and refresh.
Other popular campsites on Lake Garda include Bella Italia and Del Garda Village, both found near the town of Peschiera del Garda. Both are child-friendly with multiple pools and activities on offer for families.
Hotels: there are hotels located throughout the Lake Garda region but not necessarily the big, all-inclusive resorts you find in other European sun destinations. Think boutique and family-run.
There are some listed on all-inclusive websites like loveholidays.ie which provide the option to pay in instalments. Expect prices of around €500-€600 per person for a week-long stay during the peak summer season (flights included).
The heat and steep hills of Limone sul Garda meant the kids wanted frequent breaks in the shade, but this just gave us the perfect opportunity to enjoy the scenery.\ Janine Kennedy
Airbnb: if – no, when – we go back to Lake Garda, I will likely go down the Airbnb route. There are numerous properties on offer for excellent value (around €1,500 for a week-long stay). In this region, being able to cook at least two of your own meals a day isn’t just thrifty – it’s thoroughly enjoyable given the quality of local ingredients. An option worth looking into, particularly if you’re travelling with slightly older children.
Where to eat
Italy has a great reputation for food, but sometimes touristy areas don’t always have the best of the region on offer. This is not the case in Lake Garda. There are numerous restaurants in each town offering everything from traditional osteria lunches to trattorias offering great pasta and freshly made pizza.
Papillon: the house-made pizzas at this lakeside Salò eatery were so good, we came back for our final meal of the trip. Family-run with friendly staff and a kid-friendly atmosphere, there is both outdoor seating by the lake as well as inside the restaurant.
Papillon also specialises in seafood and pasta dishes. No reservations needed, but it can get busy. Lunch for a family of five with drinks came to about €60. See ristorantepapillon.it.
Ciara, Maeve and Aine with their dad, Pat, on the shores of Lake Garda in Portese, near their holiday campsite.\ Janine Kennedy
Restaurant Pizzeria Dal Bigaröla: picture this: you’re in Limone sul Garda – one of the most picturesque towns you have ever visited – and the weather is warm and sunny, with a gentle breeze coming off the lake. This was one of those lunches which is sure to become a core family memory. The restaurant features grilled meat, fish, pizza and pasta. Lunch with drinks for five was around €70.
Gelaterias: when you’re on holiday in Italy, gelato is going to be part of your day – especially when you’re travelling with kids. Did you know: if gelato is high quality, you won’t see it – in other words, the best gelato is stored in stainless steel containers with lids.
Gelateria Savoia: this is technically in Verona, but it was the best gelato I had on our trip. The history of this gelateria goes back to the 1930s and it’s just steps from the Castelvecchio Museum and Verona Arena (€25 for a family of five).
Café Gelateria Pink Panther: this gelateria in Limone sul Garda serves up the creamiest lemon gelato in a hollowed out, frozen lemon, which is grown in a nearby grove for (€6.50 per lemon).
What to do
We spent an entire week in Lake Garda and barely scratched its surface; there is so much to do and see. Our number one suggestion? Slather on some factor 50, pack lots of water and take a day long road trip all around the lake (stop off at whichever beaches strike your fancy and hit up Riva del Garda – found right at the top of the lake – for lunch).
Sirmione from the lake: if you’ve ever seen photos of Lake Garda, chances are you have seen the impressive castle in Sirmione, which is basically built into the lake. The town and castle get crowded during high season, but you have the option to book a boat tour which will take you all around the peninsula on which the castle is situated. You can find boat tour options online at viatour.com starting from €30 per person.
Gardaland: my least favourite activity was, of course, the kids’ favourite: a visit to Gardaland amusement park. Our eldest had a great time on the rollercoasters with her dad, while our two younger kids and I explored the tamer rides and amusements. What can I say? It’s expensive, it’s hot and you’re guaranteed to be waiting in line for at least 40 minutes per ride. In addition to its many amusements, Gardaland also features a Legoland water park and Peppa Pig Land for the little ones. Tickets start at €44 per person, gardaland.it.
Shop in Limone sul Garda: an entire town devoted to lemons? I thought it would be gimmicky, but Limone sul Garda is truly one of the prettiest places I have ever had the pleasure to visit.
Walk along the waterfront promenade, take in the sights and buy every lemon-themed item you can get your hands on. We loved the sweet-smelling soaps, hand lotions, gelato and limoncellos made with locally grown lemons.
The best quality gelato is kept in stainless steel drums with lids, so they aren't exposed to the outside air. \ Janine Kennedy
I love my children, but family holidays are often a lot of work with little opportunity for relaxation. Parents of smallies need to ensure they are going somewhere kid-friendly, with opportunities for all-ages activities, swimming and foods the kids will enjoy. We need to be organised when it comes to packing – especially if you are planning to fly and have luggage restrictions. Even just getting to your destination can be a huge undertaking.
This past summer, I think we found the right balance on our holiday to Lake Garda in northern Italy. My husband and I enjoyed ourselves as much as the kids. While we indulged in pizza and gelato every day, the adults also tried delicious local cheeses, meats and wine. We stayed in a self-catering cabin on a campsite with plenty of swimming pools and activities. It wasn’t perfect – what family holiday ever is? – but we made memories to last a lifetime.
This was our first family foray into Italy and while we did our research, we weren’t quite sure what to expect. Lake Garda is a well-known holiday hotspot and would be teeming with tourists. It’s always a gamble: will it be as picturesque in real life? Will it be overrun with tourist trap-restaurants and gimmicky gift shops? I’m not exaggerating when I say Lake Garda dismissed every pre-conceived notion I had. From refreshing swims in the crystal-clear lake to day trips to nearby towns and cities, we filled our days with the perfect combination of relaxation and activity.
Lake Garda straddles the Lombardy and Verona administrative regions of northern Italy. The northern half of the lake is set amongst the dramatic backdrop of the Italian Alps, while the southern half is easily accessed by the Verona-Milan motorway. Despite being a mountainous region, the climate here is Mediterranean-esque with deliciously hot summers, lush gardens, rolling vineyards and gentle breezes. We visited at the tail-end of August, and despite a few intense thunderstorms, the weather was hot and sunny.
Maeve (12) and Janine Kennedy wait at the lake ferry terminal in Portese, Lake Garda. \ Janine Kennedy
Getting there
To access Lake Garda, you can fly into Verona or Milan. The lake is less than an hour’s drive from either. Both airports are served by Ryanair and Aer Lingus with flights running from around €95 at peak season. We flew into Milan-Bergamo with Ryanair and used their Family Plus option. With Family Plus, we were able to pay in instalments and had a decent luggage allowance including a 20kg checked bag, a 10kg bag per person and the usual carry-on.
We made a huge mistake and decided against renting a car for our week’s stay. Having researched extensively, we really believed we could enjoy our holiday while making use of the local bus, train and lake ferry system. Within 30 minutes of our arrival, we realised this would be impossible.
We decided it would be best to rent a car for three days and have it delivered to our accommodation. To return to the airport at the end of our trip, we paid handsomely for a transfer. These things incurred extra costs we didn’t anticipate, so when we return, we will be including car rental costs into our budget. Lesson learned. Lake Garda is beautiful, but not as well connected as we believed it to be.
Accommodation- self-catering and camping: there are lots of affordable, family-friendly options for self-catering located throughout the Lake Garda region. We chose to stay at Camping Eden (camping-eden.it) in Portese, and we were happy with our decision. Nearby Salò is a stunning town, with an interesting museum and plenty of shops and restaurants.
We booked our stay through Eurocamp and for less than €1,500 (for a week’s stay), we were provided with a two-bedroom cabin with covered veranda and a barbeque. The kitchen was decently equipped, though the space was run-down and incredibly tight for a family of five. Our kids were not happy with the lack of Wi-Fi on site, but we parents were just fine with the digital detox. Evenings were spent playing cards, and when we weren’t out on adventures, we were in one of their two pools.
The campsite is located on a steep incline. Our cabin was at the very top of the hill, requiring a difficult climb several times per day. When you consider the amount of cheese, wine and pizza I consumed throughout the week, the walk was probably justified. The site also includes a playground, games room, restaurant and a small shop with basic snacks and groceries. On most days, there are arts and crafts classes for kids.
This campsite also features a pebble beach on the lake with a pier perfect for practising your cannonball. We would end up in the lake each evening to rinse off and refresh.
Other popular campsites on Lake Garda include Bella Italia and Del Garda Village, both found near the town of Peschiera del Garda. Both are child-friendly with multiple pools and activities on offer for families.
Hotels: there are hotels located throughout the Lake Garda region but not necessarily the big, all-inclusive resorts you find in other European sun destinations. Think boutique and family-run.
There are some listed on all-inclusive websites like loveholidays.ie which provide the option to pay in instalments. Expect prices of around €500-€600 per person for a week-long stay during the peak summer season (flights included).
The heat and steep hills of Limone sul Garda meant the kids wanted frequent breaks in the shade, but this just gave us the perfect opportunity to enjoy the scenery.\ Janine Kennedy
Airbnb: if – no, when – we go back to Lake Garda, I will likely go down the Airbnb route. There are numerous properties on offer for excellent value (around €1,500 for a week-long stay). In this region, being able to cook at least two of your own meals a day isn’t just thrifty – it’s thoroughly enjoyable given the quality of local ingredients. An option worth looking into, particularly if you’re travelling with slightly older children.
Where to eat
Italy has a great reputation for food, but sometimes touristy areas don’t always have the best of the region on offer. This is not the case in Lake Garda. There are numerous restaurants in each town offering everything from traditional osteria lunches to trattorias offering great pasta and freshly made pizza.
Papillon: the house-made pizzas at this lakeside Salò eatery were so good, we came back for our final meal of the trip. Family-run with friendly staff and a kid-friendly atmosphere, there is both outdoor seating by the lake as well as inside the restaurant.
Papillon also specialises in seafood and pasta dishes. No reservations needed, but it can get busy. Lunch for a family of five with drinks came to about €60. See ristorantepapillon.it.
Ciara, Maeve and Aine with their dad, Pat, on the shores of Lake Garda in Portese, near their holiday campsite.\ Janine Kennedy
Restaurant Pizzeria Dal Bigaröla: picture this: you’re in Limone sul Garda – one of the most picturesque towns you have ever visited – and the weather is warm and sunny, with a gentle breeze coming off the lake. This was one of those lunches which is sure to become a core family memory. The restaurant features grilled meat, fish, pizza and pasta. Lunch with drinks for five was around €70.
Gelaterias: when you’re on holiday in Italy, gelato is going to be part of your day – especially when you’re travelling with kids. Did you know: if gelato is high quality, you won’t see it – in other words, the best gelato is stored in stainless steel containers with lids.
Gelateria Savoia: this is technically in Verona, but it was the best gelato I had on our trip. The history of this gelateria goes back to the 1930s and it’s just steps from the Castelvecchio Museum and Verona Arena (€25 for a family of five).
Café Gelateria Pink Panther: this gelateria in Limone sul Garda serves up the creamiest lemon gelato in a hollowed out, frozen lemon, which is grown in a nearby grove for (€6.50 per lemon).
What to do
We spent an entire week in Lake Garda and barely scratched its surface; there is so much to do and see. Our number one suggestion? Slather on some factor 50, pack lots of water and take a day long road trip all around the lake (stop off at whichever beaches strike your fancy and hit up Riva del Garda – found right at the top of the lake – for lunch).
Sirmione from the lake: if you’ve ever seen photos of Lake Garda, chances are you have seen the impressive castle in Sirmione, which is basically built into the lake. The town and castle get crowded during high season, but you have the option to book a boat tour which will take you all around the peninsula on which the castle is situated. You can find boat tour options online at viatour.com starting from €30 per person.
Gardaland: my least favourite activity was, of course, the kids’ favourite: a visit to Gardaland amusement park. Our eldest had a great time on the rollercoasters with her dad, while our two younger kids and I explored the tamer rides and amusements. What can I say? It’s expensive, it’s hot and you’re guaranteed to be waiting in line for at least 40 minutes per ride. In addition to its many amusements, Gardaland also features a Legoland water park and Peppa Pig Land for the little ones. Tickets start at €44 per person, gardaland.it.
Shop in Limone sul Garda: an entire town devoted to lemons? I thought it would be gimmicky, but Limone sul Garda is truly one of the prettiest places I have ever had the pleasure to visit.
Walk along the waterfront promenade, take in the sights and buy every lemon-themed item you can get your hands on. We loved the sweet-smelling soaps, hand lotions, gelato and limoncellos made with locally grown lemons.
The best quality gelato is kept in stainless steel drums with lids, so they aren't exposed to the outside air. \ Janine Kennedy
SHARING OPTIONS