As I was getting ready to walk out the door and head for the Irish Food Writers’ Guild Food Awards, it dawned on me that it had been a dog’s year since I was last in the big smoke, which, for the first time, made me feel a bit uneasy. Still, I made a fist of it and carried on.

The nerves vanished almost immediately once I reached the hidden doors of L’Ecrivain restaurant and was greeted by a smiling Georgina Campbell, current president of the IFWG and also the woman at the helm of the Georgina Campbell’s Ireland Guide (and graced the cover of Irish Country Living a couple of week’s ago).

Georgina whisked me around the room, introducing me to all of the magnificent artisan food candidates and some prolific names in Irish food journalism that have long inspired me, including Ross Golden-Bannon and Biddy White-Lennon. It was great to see our very own Country Living editor Mairead Lavery and have a brief chat before heading upstairs for the meal, which would feature all of the award-winning ingredients.

In its 20th year, the Irish Food Writers’ Guild Food Awards recognises and rewards producers of the highest quality food, and this year Cork was truly flying the flag. Seven awards, including an inaugural drinks award, were presented by the Guild to: Cork’s Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms; Coolea Matured Farmhouse Cheese and Irish Atlantic Sea Salt. Stonewell Cider (Co Cork) claimed the Guild’s inaugural drinks award and Dermot Carey and David Langford were awarded for their notable contribution to Irish food for their expansive Heritage Irish Potato Collection.

An environmental award was presented to Responsible Irish Fish (Co Cork) for its commitment to the development of sustainable fishing practices and a lifetime achievement award was presented to the inimitable Corkonian Myrtle Allen, a much-loved fellow Guild member, on the occasion of her 90th birthday.

The meal, created by executive chef Derry Clarke, started off with a very elegant Ballyhoura mushroom consommé with a beautiful single Coolea cheese tortellini that just absolutely melted in your mouth. Followed by fillet of brined and smoked mackerel with heritage potatoes and gorgeous dry-aged Irish beef with Ballyhoura mushrooms, Coolea cheese and wild garlic. For dessert, a platter of beautiful Irish Atlantic sea salted caramel mousse and Stonewell Cider sorbet was laid before us and made everyone at the table swoon with delight.

When the awards dinner ended, I bid my farewells and made my way back to the farm. As I drove across the country, I considered the vast landscape of remarkable Irish food and people behind it. I thought about my conversation with Jane Murphy, the gentle woman behind Ardsallagh Goat’s Cheese who sat next to me and told me all about the process of making her gorgeous cheese.

It turns out I had nothing to be nervous about … just plenty to learn.