We are in the final furlong. We close the restaurant on 19 December and everyone has a well-earned break and time to spend with family and friends. We all appreciate the break.
I did my last demo of the year last week for the Samaritans in the Sligo Park Hotel. The mood was electric and the food was festive. We also had our Christmas made easy courses recently in the cookery school. These have proved very popular and this year we did three days with 12 people each day and I think they all went home happy.
I always have a special thought for the people who are hosting Christmas for the first time. It can feel like a lot of pressure. So be kind and offer to help. I don’t know any cook who doesn’t appreciate an extra hand in the kitchen on a busy day. I certainly do.
As usual, planning is the key to a successful festive meal for all the family, so be sure to make a list and see what you can make in advance. This will save you lots of time and stress on Christmas Day and it makes the meal a more enjoyable experience all round.
Another thing that comes up a lot at this time of the year is what to cook if you have vegetarians at the table. And it is becoming more and more popular to have a veggie option.
One tasty dish that is handy to make is a roasted vegetable risotto which is a one pan dish that you will be able to handle along with the main meal.
Pumpkins are in season now and they are very good in a risotto. People will appreciate the effort you have made to accommodate them with something tasty and special.
Turning to the big day, and this roast crown of turkey is convenient, it cooks easily and is a pleasure to carve. One of the most frequent questions I am asked is how to keep the turkey moist.
I always remind people that it is just a big chicken that will take a little longer in the oven. The flavoured butter keeps it lovely and moist. I love this butter with the garlic, orange zest and herbs. At this time of year supermarkets will sell sage, parsley and thyme in one pack which is very handy.
To test if the turkey crown is cooked, pierce the thickest part with a long clean skewer or knitting needle. If the juices run clear, it’s ready. If it’s a little pink, then return it to the oven and cook it a little longer. Alternatively, a meat thermometer is a good investment that you’ll get use out of right throughout the year.
I like the smoked bacon on the top of the breast and I use up any extra rashers with the Brussels sprouts. The pine nuts have that lovely crunch and you could add some dried apricots or cranberries if you like too. Sage and onion stuffing and gravy are the perfect tasty accompaniments to your turkey on the big day.
Ham it up
I also get asked a lot about how to do a nice glazed ham. Last year, I cooked a James Whelan ham on the bone and it was one of the best I have ever eaten. It takes a little bit longer to cook.
This honey-glazed ham is cooked in the traditional manner. It is simmered in a large pan first before being finished off in the oven, which keeps the finished result really moist. I usually cook my ham two days ahead and then glaze it on Christmas morning.
This ham glaze also makes a lovely gift. My auntie Kathleen makes a traditional brown sugar and mustard glaze and I am always delighted when she brings it to us. This is a recipe that has come down the generations and it is the time of year to appreciate some of these thoughtful traditions.
Roast crown of turkey with sage and onion stuffing
Ingredients: serves 6-8
75g butter, softened
1 garlic clove, crushed
Finely grated rind of one orange
1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 x 5kg turkey crown
6 rindless smoked bacon rashers
For the stuffing:
75g butter
1 onion, diced
1 tsp chopped fresh sage
50g pine nuts, toasted
175g fresh white breadcrumbs
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the gravy:
1 tbsp plain flour
300ml chicken stock
To serve:
Christmas ham honey glaze
Brussels sprout, red onion and bacon crumble
Roasted carrots with garlic and parsley
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/gas mark 5).
2. To make the stuffing, heat a frying pan and melt the butter. Add the onion and sage and cook for a few minutes, until softened but not coloured. Add the toasted pine nuts, then stir in the breadcrumbs, mixing well to combine. Season to taste. Wrap the stuffing in buttered tin foil and mould into a large sausage shape, then chill until needed.
3. Next, prepare the turkey crown. Cream the butter until very soft, then add the crushed garlic, orange rind, parsley and thyme. Beat well until thoroughly blended.
Gently loosen the neck flap away from the turkey breast and pack the flavoured butter right under the skin – this is best done using gloves on your hands. Rub well into the flesh of the turkey, then re-cover the skin and secure with a small skewer or sew with fine twine. Finally, cover the top of the crown with the rashers.
4. Place the turkey crown in the oven and calculate your time – it needs 20 minutes per 450g plus 20 minutes, so a 5kg crown will take 4 hours and you’ll need to put the stuffing in for the last half an hour.
The turkey crown will cook much quicker than a whole turkey, so make sure to keep basting it. You can cover it with foil if it’s browning too quickly.
5. When cooked, cover with foil to rest for 20 minutes and keep warm.
6. To make the gravy, skim all the fat from the cooking juices, then pour off all but three tablespoons of the juices from the roasting tin. Stir the flour into the pan residue and cook on the hob, stirring over a low heat until golden. Gradually pour in the stock, stirring all the time. Bring to the boil and let it bubble for 2–3 minutes, until thickened.
7. Season to taste and keep warm.
8. To serve, carve the turkey crown into slices and arrange on warmed plates with the slices of cooked stuffing, glazed ham, brussels sprout, red onion and bacon crumble and the roasted carrots with garlic and parsley. Pour the gravy into a warmed gravy jug and hand around separately.
Honey-glazed ham with cloves
Honey-glazed ham with cloves. Photographer: Philip Doyle.
Food styling: Janine Kennedy.
Ingredients: serves 10-12
5.25kg leg of gammon,
on the bone with the skin on
4 celery sticks, roughly chopped
2 onions, sliced
1 bunch of fresh thyme
1 tbsp black peppercorns
200ml Irish whiskey
200ml honey
2 tbsp redcurrant jelly
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp ground allspice
2 tsp whole cloves
Method
1. Soak the gammon in cold water for at least 6 hours (or overnight is best), then drain.
2. Weigh the gammon and calculate the cooking time, allowing 20 minutes per 450g plus 20 minutes – this size takes about four hours. Put in a large pan, cover with water and bring to the boil, skimming off any scum. Add the celery, onions, thyme and peppercorns and return to the boil, then cover, reduce the heat and simmer until completely tender, occasionally skimming off any scum that rises to the top. If you aren’t sure the gammon is properly cooked, check the bone end – it should come away freely from the gammon joint. Drain and leave until cool enough to handle.
3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas mark 4).
4. Carefully peel away the skin, leaving the layer of white fat intact. Using a sharp knife, score the fat diagonally to make a diamond pattern.
5. Put the whiskey in a pan with the honey, redcurrant jelly, balsamic vinegar and ground allspice. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened.
6. Stud the ham with the cloves and put in a large roasting tin with a little water to prevent the bottom from catching and burning.
7. Brush a layer of the glaze all over the ham, reserving the remainder.
8. Cook in the oven for 1 hour, brushing over another layer of the glaze every 15 minutes, until it’s all gone. Transfer to a platter and leave to rest for 15-20 minutes before carving into slices to serve. Enjoy with your turkey and in sandwiches.
Christmas gravy
Ingredients: makes 1 litre
2 onions, roughly chopped
2 carrots, roughly chopped
2 celery sticks, roughly chopped
15g bunch fresh herbs (such as 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs of rosemary and 2 sage sprigs)
50g dry-cured bacon lardons
1 pack chicken wings
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp Madiera wine – or port
4 tbsp plain flour
2 tbsp cranberry sauce
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
1. Preheat to 180°C (350°F/Gas Mark 4). Put the onions, carrots, celery and herbs in a large roasting tin and mix well to combine. Scatter over the bacon. Bash the chicken wings with a rolling pin, to break them open as this will help to release extra flavour as they cook. Add them to the vegetable mixture and season generously. Drizzle with the oil and roast for one hour until the chicken is golden brown and crispy.
2. Take the tray out of the oven and put directly on the hob over a medium heat and give everything a good mash down using a potato masher. Stir well to remove all the sediment and the longer you let it saute the darker the gravy will be. Pour in Madiera or port and allow to bubble down for a few minutes, stirring continuously.
3. Sprinkle over the flour and carefully stir it into the mixture, then continue to cook for a minute or so. Pour in 2 litres of boiling water and simmer for at least 30 minutes or until thickened and reduced by half, stirring occasionally. Pour through a coarse sieve into a large bowl or jug, pushing through all the goodness with the back of a spoon. Season to taste. Leave to cool down completely and then remove any fat that has settled on top.
4. Transfer the chilled gravy to a zip-lock bag and put into the fridge for up to two days or this can be frozen up to a month in advance, ready to be used on Christmas day.
5. If you have frozen the gravy, defrost overnight – if your fridge is full use the sink. When your turkey is cooked, put it on a warm platter to rest for up to one hour, covered in a double layer of tin foil and a clean tea towel. Skim away the fat from the tin and put it on the hob on a high heat. Pour in the gravy and bring to a simmer, scraping the bottom to get all the delicious sticky bits. Stir in the cranberry sauce and then strain into a clean pan and simmer gently until you are ready to use. Stir in all the resting juices from the turkey. Put into a warmed gravy boat to serve.
We are in the final furlong. We close the restaurant on 19 December and everyone has a well-earned break and time to spend with family and friends. We all appreciate the break.
I did my last demo of the year last week for the Samaritans in the Sligo Park Hotel. The mood was electric and the food was festive. We also had our Christmas made easy courses recently in the cookery school. These have proved very popular and this year we did three days with 12 people each day and I think they all went home happy.
I always have a special thought for the people who are hosting Christmas for the first time. It can feel like a lot of pressure. So be kind and offer to help. I don’t know any cook who doesn’t appreciate an extra hand in the kitchen on a busy day. I certainly do.
As usual, planning is the key to a successful festive meal for all the family, so be sure to make a list and see what you can make in advance. This will save you lots of time and stress on Christmas Day and it makes the meal a more enjoyable experience all round.
Another thing that comes up a lot at this time of the year is what to cook if you have vegetarians at the table. And it is becoming more and more popular to have a veggie option.
One tasty dish that is handy to make is a roasted vegetable risotto which is a one pan dish that you will be able to handle along with the main meal.
Pumpkins are in season now and they are very good in a risotto. People will appreciate the effort you have made to accommodate them with something tasty and special.
Turning to the big day, and this roast crown of turkey is convenient, it cooks easily and is a pleasure to carve. One of the most frequent questions I am asked is how to keep the turkey moist.
I always remind people that it is just a big chicken that will take a little longer in the oven. The flavoured butter keeps it lovely and moist. I love this butter with the garlic, orange zest and herbs. At this time of year supermarkets will sell sage, parsley and thyme in one pack which is very handy.
To test if the turkey crown is cooked, pierce the thickest part with a long clean skewer or knitting needle. If the juices run clear, it’s ready. If it’s a little pink, then return it to the oven and cook it a little longer. Alternatively, a meat thermometer is a good investment that you’ll get use out of right throughout the year.
I like the smoked bacon on the top of the breast and I use up any extra rashers with the Brussels sprouts. The pine nuts have that lovely crunch and you could add some dried apricots or cranberries if you like too. Sage and onion stuffing and gravy are the perfect tasty accompaniments to your turkey on the big day.
Ham it up
I also get asked a lot about how to do a nice glazed ham. Last year, I cooked a James Whelan ham on the bone and it was one of the best I have ever eaten. It takes a little bit longer to cook.
This honey-glazed ham is cooked in the traditional manner. It is simmered in a large pan first before being finished off in the oven, which keeps the finished result really moist. I usually cook my ham two days ahead and then glaze it on Christmas morning.
This ham glaze also makes a lovely gift. My auntie Kathleen makes a traditional brown sugar and mustard glaze and I am always delighted when she brings it to us. This is a recipe that has come down the generations and it is the time of year to appreciate some of these thoughtful traditions.
Roast crown of turkey with sage and onion stuffing
Ingredients: serves 6-8
75g butter, softened
1 garlic clove, crushed
Finely grated rind of one orange
1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 x 5kg turkey crown
6 rindless smoked bacon rashers
For the stuffing:
75g butter
1 onion, diced
1 tsp chopped fresh sage
50g pine nuts, toasted
175g fresh white breadcrumbs
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the gravy:
1 tbsp plain flour
300ml chicken stock
To serve:
Christmas ham honey glaze
Brussels sprout, red onion and bacon crumble
Roasted carrots with garlic and parsley
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/gas mark 5).
2. To make the stuffing, heat a frying pan and melt the butter. Add the onion and sage and cook for a few minutes, until softened but not coloured. Add the toasted pine nuts, then stir in the breadcrumbs, mixing well to combine. Season to taste. Wrap the stuffing in buttered tin foil and mould into a large sausage shape, then chill until needed.
3. Next, prepare the turkey crown. Cream the butter until very soft, then add the crushed garlic, orange rind, parsley and thyme. Beat well until thoroughly blended.
Gently loosen the neck flap away from the turkey breast and pack the flavoured butter right under the skin – this is best done using gloves on your hands. Rub well into the flesh of the turkey, then re-cover the skin and secure with a small skewer or sew with fine twine. Finally, cover the top of the crown with the rashers.
4. Place the turkey crown in the oven and calculate your time – it needs 20 minutes per 450g plus 20 minutes, so a 5kg crown will take 4 hours and you’ll need to put the stuffing in for the last half an hour.
The turkey crown will cook much quicker than a whole turkey, so make sure to keep basting it. You can cover it with foil if it’s browning too quickly.
5. When cooked, cover with foil to rest for 20 minutes and keep warm.
6. To make the gravy, skim all the fat from the cooking juices, then pour off all but three tablespoons of the juices from the roasting tin. Stir the flour into the pan residue and cook on the hob, stirring over a low heat until golden. Gradually pour in the stock, stirring all the time. Bring to the boil and let it bubble for 2–3 minutes, until thickened.
7. Season to taste and keep warm.
8. To serve, carve the turkey crown into slices and arrange on warmed plates with the slices of cooked stuffing, glazed ham, brussels sprout, red onion and bacon crumble and the roasted carrots with garlic and parsley. Pour the gravy into a warmed gravy jug and hand around separately.
Honey-glazed ham with cloves
Honey-glazed ham with cloves. Photographer: Philip Doyle.
Food styling: Janine Kennedy.
Ingredients: serves 10-12
5.25kg leg of gammon,
on the bone with the skin on
4 celery sticks, roughly chopped
2 onions, sliced
1 bunch of fresh thyme
1 tbsp black peppercorns
200ml Irish whiskey
200ml honey
2 tbsp redcurrant jelly
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp ground allspice
2 tsp whole cloves
Method
1. Soak the gammon in cold water for at least 6 hours (or overnight is best), then drain.
2. Weigh the gammon and calculate the cooking time, allowing 20 minutes per 450g plus 20 minutes – this size takes about four hours. Put in a large pan, cover with water and bring to the boil, skimming off any scum. Add the celery, onions, thyme and peppercorns and return to the boil, then cover, reduce the heat and simmer until completely tender, occasionally skimming off any scum that rises to the top. If you aren’t sure the gammon is properly cooked, check the bone end – it should come away freely from the gammon joint. Drain and leave until cool enough to handle.
3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas mark 4).
4. Carefully peel away the skin, leaving the layer of white fat intact. Using a sharp knife, score the fat diagonally to make a diamond pattern.
5. Put the whiskey in a pan with the honey, redcurrant jelly, balsamic vinegar and ground allspice. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened.
6. Stud the ham with the cloves and put in a large roasting tin with a little water to prevent the bottom from catching and burning.
7. Brush a layer of the glaze all over the ham, reserving the remainder.
8. Cook in the oven for 1 hour, brushing over another layer of the glaze every 15 minutes, until it’s all gone. Transfer to a platter and leave to rest for 15-20 minutes before carving into slices to serve. Enjoy with your turkey and in sandwiches.
Christmas gravy
Ingredients: makes 1 litre
2 onions, roughly chopped
2 carrots, roughly chopped
2 celery sticks, roughly chopped
15g bunch fresh herbs (such as 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs of rosemary and 2 sage sprigs)
50g dry-cured bacon lardons
1 pack chicken wings
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp Madiera wine – or port
4 tbsp plain flour
2 tbsp cranberry sauce
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
1. Preheat to 180°C (350°F/Gas Mark 4). Put the onions, carrots, celery and herbs in a large roasting tin and mix well to combine. Scatter over the bacon. Bash the chicken wings with a rolling pin, to break them open as this will help to release extra flavour as they cook. Add them to the vegetable mixture and season generously. Drizzle with the oil and roast for one hour until the chicken is golden brown and crispy.
2. Take the tray out of the oven and put directly on the hob over a medium heat and give everything a good mash down using a potato masher. Stir well to remove all the sediment and the longer you let it saute the darker the gravy will be. Pour in Madiera or port and allow to bubble down for a few minutes, stirring continuously.
3. Sprinkle over the flour and carefully stir it into the mixture, then continue to cook for a minute or so. Pour in 2 litres of boiling water and simmer for at least 30 minutes or until thickened and reduced by half, stirring occasionally. Pour through a coarse sieve into a large bowl or jug, pushing through all the goodness with the back of a spoon. Season to taste. Leave to cool down completely and then remove any fat that has settled on top.
4. Transfer the chilled gravy to a zip-lock bag and put into the fridge for up to two days or this can be frozen up to a month in advance, ready to be used on Christmas day.
5. If you have frozen the gravy, defrost overnight – if your fridge is full use the sink. When your turkey is cooked, put it on a warm platter to rest for up to one hour, covered in a double layer of tin foil and a clean tea towel. Skim away the fat from the tin and put it on the hob on a high heat. Pour in the gravy and bring to a simmer, scraping the bottom to get all the delicious sticky bits. Stir in the cranberry sauce and then strain into a clean pan and simmer gently until you are ready to use. Stir in all the resting juices from the turkey. Put into a warmed gravy boat to serve.
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