Having been kindly asked to write a food column, I found myself hesitating for a moment, wondering: what might be of interest to you, the reader? Food is such a broad and personal subject. Everyone has their own memories, preferences, and traditions around it. In our case, food is not simply a topic of conversation – it is very much the heart of our family story.
Dunmore House in Clonakilty has been part of our family life for generations, so as way of introduction, let me bring you inside. The farm and house were first bought in 1934 by my grandparents. Back then, it was simply home and land, but like many Irish family places it evolved with the times. In 1948, it was established as a guest house and bar and was later carried on by my parents, Derry and Mary O’Donovan.
From the beginning, everything revolved around food. In those early days there were no large kitchen teams or elaborate menus. My parents cooked exactly as they had always done for family and friends – generously, seasonally, and with great care. My father, a self-taught chef, was known for his soups. Anyone who grew up in an Irish household will know that soup was never just soup; it was comfort, warmth, and nourishment all in one bowl.
Of course, things have grown since then. Today the hotel employs 15 chefs as well as a hardworking team of kitchen porters. We have been fortunate to be listed in the Michelin Guide every year since 2022, and in 2024 the restaurant was awarded Best Hotel Restaurant in Ireland. These accolades are something we are incredibly proud of, though they also remind us of the responsibility that comes with them – to continue cooking with the same honesty and respect for ingredients that defined those earlier days.
West Cork itself is also home to an extraordinary network of farmers, fishermen, and artisan producers
People sometimes ask what lies behind Dunmore House’s food reputation. The answer, quite simply, is where we are. We are privileged to have a 2.5ac certified organic garden on site. Overlooking the sea, it supplies us with a remarkable amount of produce throughout the year. Walking through the garden in the morning gives a chef a very different perspective on cooking. When you see vegetables growing in the soil, you immediately understand the value of freshness and seasonality.
West Cork itself is also home to an extraordinary network of farmers, fishermen, and artisan producers. Fish is freshly landed in nearby Union Hall and supplied by Glenmar Seafood. Skeaghanore duck comes from Helena and Eugene Hickey, whose dedication to quality is well known. Kevin O’Donovan and the team at Gloun Cross Dairy provide beautiful dairy products, while Barra Sweetnam at All Fresh Wholesale helps us source local fruit and vegetables through the seasons.
Then there are the producers like Toonsbridge Dairy, Bushby Strawberries and Raspberries, and Shannonvale Foods, each bringing their own particular expertise. We use certified Irish Hereford beef. Having a good relationship with a butcher that you trust – in our case, M.J. O’Neill in Clonakilty – can’t be underestimated.
When you step back and look at this network of producers, you begin to see that a restaurant’s success rarely belongs to the restaurant alone. It is a shared effort between growers, fishermen, farmers, and chefs. The quality on the plate begins long before anything reaches the kitchen.
Carol with her mother Mary and her son Peter. Dunmore House is a fourth-generation family business.
And then of course, there is the baking. Like many Irish kitchens, we still make our own brown bread every day, along with scones and other simple bakes. There is something deeply reassuring about the smell of fresh bread coming from the oven. Guests often comment on it as soon as they arrive, and for many it brings back memories of childhood kitchens and family tables.
The philosophy behind our cooking is not complicated. Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients cooked simply is very often the recipe for success. Fruits and vegetables are always at their best when they are in season, and there is no clever technique that can improve a tomato picked too early or a strawberry grown out of its natural time.
People sometimes imagine that cooking must be very easy for me, surrounded by 15 talented chefs. In truth, running a kitchen today brings its own challenges. At present, three members of our team are Irish, with the remainder coming from overseas. Like many hospitality businesses, we rely on international talent, and accommodation is often necessary to support the team who choose to work here.
But there is also something rather wonderful about this mix of cultures and experiences. A kitchen becomes a meeting place for different culinary traditions, techniques and perspectives. At the end of the day, everyone is united by the same goal: to create food that people genuinely enjoy.
Perhaps that is the real secret of a good kitchen – not complexity, but care. Care for the ingredients, care for the people who produce them, and care for the guests who sit down to eat. And so, if this column has a theme, it might simply be this: good food begins long before the plate, and its true value lies in the people and places behind it.
Having been kindly asked to write a food column, I found myself hesitating for a moment, wondering: what might be of interest to you, the reader? Food is such a broad and personal subject. Everyone has their own memories, preferences, and traditions around it. In our case, food is not simply a topic of conversation – it is very much the heart of our family story.
Dunmore House in Clonakilty has been part of our family life for generations, so as way of introduction, let me bring you inside. The farm and house were first bought in 1934 by my grandparents. Back then, it was simply home and land, but like many Irish family places it evolved with the times. In 1948, it was established as a guest house and bar and was later carried on by my parents, Derry and Mary O’Donovan.
From the beginning, everything revolved around food. In those early days there were no large kitchen teams or elaborate menus. My parents cooked exactly as they had always done for family and friends – generously, seasonally, and with great care. My father, a self-taught chef, was known for his soups. Anyone who grew up in an Irish household will know that soup was never just soup; it was comfort, warmth, and nourishment all in one bowl.
Of course, things have grown since then. Today the hotel employs 15 chefs as well as a hardworking team of kitchen porters. We have been fortunate to be listed in the Michelin Guide every year since 2022, and in 2024 the restaurant was awarded Best Hotel Restaurant in Ireland. These accolades are something we are incredibly proud of, though they also remind us of the responsibility that comes with them – to continue cooking with the same honesty and respect for ingredients that defined those earlier days.
West Cork itself is also home to an extraordinary network of farmers, fishermen, and artisan producers
People sometimes ask what lies behind Dunmore House’s food reputation. The answer, quite simply, is where we are. We are privileged to have a 2.5ac certified organic garden on site. Overlooking the sea, it supplies us with a remarkable amount of produce throughout the year. Walking through the garden in the morning gives a chef a very different perspective on cooking. When you see vegetables growing in the soil, you immediately understand the value of freshness and seasonality.
West Cork itself is also home to an extraordinary network of farmers, fishermen, and artisan producers. Fish is freshly landed in nearby Union Hall and supplied by Glenmar Seafood. Skeaghanore duck comes from Helena and Eugene Hickey, whose dedication to quality is well known. Kevin O’Donovan and the team at Gloun Cross Dairy provide beautiful dairy products, while Barra Sweetnam at All Fresh Wholesale helps us source local fruit and vegetables through the seasons.
Then there are the producers like Toonsbridge Dairy, Bushby Strawberries and Raspberries, and Shannonvale Foods, each bringing their own particular expertise. We use certified Irish Hereford beef. Having a good relationship with a butcher that you trust – in our case, M.J. O’Neill in Clonakilty – can’t be underestimated.
When you step back and look at this network of producers, you begin to see that a restaurant’s success rarely belongs to the restaurant alone. It is a shared effort between growers, fishermen, farmers, and chefs. The quality on the plate begins long before anything reaches the kitchen.
Carol with her mother Mary and her son Peter. Dunmore House is a fourth-generation family business.
And then of course, there is the baking. Like many Irish kitchens, we still make our own brown bread every day, along with scones and other simple bakes. There is something deeply reassuring about the smell of fresh bread coming from the oven. Guests often comment on it as soon as they arrive, and for many it brings back memories of childhood kitchens and family tables.
The philosophy behind our cooking is not complicated. Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients cooked simply is very often the recipe for success. Fruits and vegetables are always at their best when they are in season, and there is no clever technique that can improve a tomato picked too early or a strawberry grown out of its natural time.
People sometimes imagine that cooking must be very easy for me, surrounded by 15 talented chefs. In truth, running a kitchen today brings its own challenges. At present, three members of our team are Irish, with the remainder coming from overseas. Like many hospitality businesses, we rely on international talent, and accommodation is often necessary to support the team who choose to work here.
But there is also something rather wonderful about this mix of cultures and experiences. A kitchen becomes a meeting place for different culinary traditions, techniques and perspectives. At the end of the day, everyone is united by the same goal: to create food that people genuinely enjoy.
Perhaps that is the real secret of a good kitchen – not complexity, but care. Care for the ingredients, care for the people who produce them, and care for the guests who sit down to eat. And so, if this column has a theme, it might simply be this: good food begins long before the plate, and its true value lies in the people and places behind it.
SHARING OPTIONS