The lily of Peru, or alstroemeria, is one of the most colourful garden flowers, covered in broad clusters of trumpet flowers in summer, mainly from June to October. The main colour is orange, but there are shades of yellow, red, pink, peach, salmon, green, white and apricot — just about every shade and combination of pink, red, yellow and orange. It is not only the colour of the flowers that makes the impact, but also the vibrancy of the shades.

Alstroemeria, like many other South American plants, is pollinated by hummingbirds and brilliant colours are the ones most easily seen by these small pollinators. The throat of the flower usually carries a pattern of flecks that act like runway lights, guiding in the fast-moving, nectar-sucking birds. The centre of the flowers often has a flash of yellow or white to further emphasise where the nectar is to be found.

Carried at the top of a fairly tall, one metre or so, flower stem, the colour is easily seen. There are several species that have been crossed and selected. Some sorts are quite small, around 30cm tall or less, others about the 45cm mark and the remainder to one metre or so.

The various sizes all have flowers of about the same size and it is just variation in flower stem length, but it allows them to be used in a variety of ways. The shorter kinds lend themselves to being grow in large pots of seven to ten litres. In such pots, they can be grown in a greenhouse for delicate flowers or on a paved area or steps. If they are kept well-watered and given feed every two or three weeks they will continually produce flowers.

The taller kinds can also be grown in a glasshouse or polytunnel for satin-like flowers and used as cut flowers. Or they can be simply grown outdoors. From South America, Brazil, Chile, Argentina as well as Peru, there are various wild species that grow in varied climates. Some like warmer conditions than others and some are hardy, except in a very cold winter. The most widely grown alstroemeria is alstroemeria aurea, with bright yellow or orange flowers.

This is the hardiest species and it has been used as a parent with many others, creating hybrids that are more hardy, such as the very popular Ligtu hybrids, which are more varied in colour. The Little Miss series and the Princess series are good small kinds. And there are lots of named kinds, such as Apollo (seen above). The bigger kinds, including alstroemeria aurea, spread readily by underground tubers.

These are very soft and easily broken and need to be handled with care if dug up and moved in late autumn. The best time to plant from pots is in spring, over the coming weeks, as the roots are not disturbed when carefully taken from a pot.

Alstroemeria can be a bit unpredictable and may not come up for a while when planted, the tuberous roots take time to settle. If space is not limited, this plant can be allowed to colonise a sizeable space, but it can be a nuisance growing into other flowers. The large kinds are inclined to flop over and may need support sticks put in place in late spring or early summer before the flower stems start to extend.

It is important to watch out for slug damage to the emerging shoots in spring. Sometimes this damage is not noticed and it can be severe enough to kill plants. Alstroemeria needs well-drained, fertile, humusy soil that retains moisture in a sunny, sheltered position to do well. CL

Watch for snails on daffodils

As the early daffodils begin to flower, there are plenty of hungry snails that are happy to feed on them. These are usually small snails, not fully grown, that can easily climb the flower stems and eat the flowers. The result is a typically tattered look. They rarely eat the whole flower, but can easily spoil the look of them.

This is usually only a problem with small groups of bulbs. Large areas can be attacked too but usually there are not enough snails to cause damage. The culprits are usually not seen because they hide by day, although an occasional snail can be found sheltering in the daffodil trumpet. Remove hiding places and tidy up debris. It is usually not worthwhile using pellets, but it might be.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Pruning of apple and pear trees and blackcurrant bushes should be completed. Plant garlic and shallots sets, if the ground is dry enough to cultivate. Sow seeds of early varieties of cabbage, cauliflower, carrot, lettuce and onions in a tunnel or glasshouse, to get an early crop.

Lawn

Ideally, the lawn should have had a first cut by now. But the ground has been very wet and it has not been possible to mow, only on well-drained ground. Apply lawn mosskiller if there is heavy moss growth. Trim the lawn edges after the first cut to leave the lawn looking neat.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Plant deciduous and evergreen trees, shrubs and hedges. Rose bushes should be pruned before any more new growth takes place — late pruning delays flowering. Rose bushes can be planted at any time. Under old trees, remove fallen bits of dead twigs and branches.

Greenhouse and house plants

Carry out a full spring-clean of the greenhouse to have it ready for sowing seeds and new plants later in the spring. Sow seeds of tomatoes for greenhouse growing, also peppers and chillis. House plants can be watered a little more and have the dust washed off their leaves.

Flowers

Seeds of geraniums, lobelia, busy lizzie and bedding begonias can be sown in a heated propagator. Lifting and dividing of herbaceous flowers can resume, as it had to be halted due to very wet soil conditions for much of the winter. Move perennial flowers on heavy soil.