Gardening with Kitty: spring into action

In the wake of storm Éowyn, gardeners around the country are faced with many challenges, from fallen garden structures to polytunnels and trees down, being among them. The reality is difficult, but every situation presents an opportunity.

Most likely gardeners are looking at fallen branches or debris all over the garden. This is added to the deadwood and branches already generated by winter pruning.

In the absence of a wood shredder, making log piles to create habitat for wildlife is one option, but for those who favour an orderly, more-organised plot, an alternative solution is preferable. Building a deadwood hedge is an excellent option, as the process recycles pruning’s from fruit trees and hedges and is a simple, cost-effective way of establishing order and enhancing biodiversity in one single step.

A deadwood hedge, as the name suggests, is a hedge that consists of piled-up deadwood which are contained in an upright structure of vertical stakes. These unique hedges bring many benefits to a garden as the re-purposed waste will provide shelter and nesting sites for birds, hedgehogs and other small mammals.

Much like insect hotels, deadwood hedges also provide hide-holes and sanctuary for beneficial insects such as bees, ladybirds and lacewings. Over time, as the materials in the hedge decompose, the soil will be enriched with organic matter, boosting fertility and improving structure.

Location, location

Choose a spot on-site where the deadwood hedge will serve its intended purpose effectively – whether as a boundary, windbreak, wildlife habitat or near an orchard to minimize the need for transporting cuttings.

Positioning the hedge to screen a composting or working area of the garden is another practical possibility. Ensure the soil underneath is not compacted or waterlogged before you start as these ground conditions will hinder the decomposition processes.

Build the framework

Erect sturdy stakes or poles (preferably untreated wood) in two parallel rows, spacing them between one and two metres apart in the row and allowing between half and one and a half metres of space between rows. The stakes should be driven into the ground leaving up to one and a half metres above ground. You can adjust the shape, size and length of your hedge to suit the space available.

Gather materials

Collect pruned branches, twigs, logs, and other garden waste. Try to use a variety of materials to create structural stability and ensure a gradual decomposition rate. Remember that deadwood hedges are an ongoing activity, which can be added to every time you prune, cut back or pick up fallen branches in your garden.

Fill the hedge

Begin by layering the thickest branches at the bottom to ensure a stable base and follow with smaller twigs and leafy debris. Compact the materials as you go to ensure they combine well together.

As you continue to add more material to the pile, weave longer branches between the stakes and among the tangled maze of cuttings.

Some material may protrude from the structure, creating an untidy appearance, but it’s best to resist the urge to trim them. These protruding branches will provide perches for birds and insects to rest and view their terrain.

While a deadwood hedge is low-maintenance, regularly adding material is key as the hedge will naturally settle and shrink as it decomposes.

In exceptionally dry periods, it pays to water the hedge to assist microbial activity and decomposition. Keeping the area around the hedge weed-free and ensuring that the hedge is not overshadowed by invasive weeds or fast-growing plants.

Climbers

Growing climbers such as honeysuckle or clematis through it or scattering native wildflower seeds around it will improve its visual and ecological value.

Keep an eye on the hedges’ stability and improve if necessary, paying attention to natural gaps that appear in the decomposing process and replacing stakes as and when required.

Deadwood hedges combine functionality, design and sustainability on a site and are a practical, ecological solution that will benefit your garden and support local biodiversity for years to come.

Sow now: Long-season tender crops such as tomatoes, peppers, chilies and aubergine need an early start indoors with bottom heat. Onions from seed should be sown indoors on heat.

Once germinated, move and grow on an unheated cold frame.

Sow indoors: Annual spinach, oriental salads, kohlrabi and spring onions are hardy and can be sown indoors in trays later in the month for transplanting in a tunnel or under fleece outside in March.

I hear seed potatoes are scarce as large-scale producers were impacted by last year’s poor growing season. I’m planning to grow early potatoes. How should I store them while waiting to plant? – Fionn, Co Dublin

It always pays to buy seed early and while you are waiting to plant, place the seed potatoes in a cool but frost free, light spot with the ‘eyes’ facing up to encourage strong sprouts before planting next month. Used egg cartons make ideal containers.

This process of pre-sprouting potatoes prior to planting is called chitting and will give your crop a head start going in to the ground in March.