The purple reign of the rhododendron is in its final flush as Irish Country Living pulls into the carpark at Pedals & Boots in Lauragh, south Kerry, having taken the foxglove fringed coast road that twists and turns from Kenmare.And though it’s still early Thursday morning, there is already a gentle hum about this rural post office-turned-café and bike hire business; and not just from the slick Gaggia coffee machine at the counter, presided over by Jenny Murphy, who slips from selling stamps to serving scones.