Spring is in full swing with gardeners, retailers and the media embracing the season with gusto. Everywhere you turn and page you open, conversations are soil, seeds and plant focused, sometimes using terms that may be unfamiliar to the uninitiated.
One such term that frequently comes up among soil and ecologically focused gardeners is ‘mulching’. While it may sound technical, mulching is a straightforward yet highly effective gardening practice that mimics natural processes. At its core is the understanding that nature inherently resists bare soil.
As we are all aware, exposed ground is quickly colonised by vegetation to restore ecological balance, informing us that garden beds should always be covered to ensure healthy stable soil.
What is mulching?
Mulching simply refers to the process of covering the soil surface with a layer of organic or inorganic material to protect and improve soil conditions.
This layer acts like a protective blanket, shielding the soil from environmental stresses such as heavy rain or drought while enhancing soil fertility and structure.
Mulches can be broadly categorised into two types: organic and inorganic. Living mulches constitute another category, often referred to as green manures but are best discussed as a separate topic.
Organic mulches include materials such as straw, wood chips, bark, grass clippings, sheep wool, fresh seaweed, spent mushroom compost, leaf mould and garden compost which decompose over time, enriching the soil with essential nutrients.
In contrast, inorganic mulches such as plastic sheeting, landscape fabric, gravel and stone do not decompose and are primarily used for weed suppression and moisture retention.
Cardboard is a readily available mulch and lies somewhere in between, often being used as a base layer for mulches such as manure or wood chip which help weigh it down.
As a rule of thumb, the best mulch for your garden is the material that is most easily accessible.
However, keep in mind that fresh green mulches like grass clippings are ideal for fast-growing, nitrogen-loving plants, while a material like straw supports fungal activity and is better suited for woody perennial crops and strawberries (as the name suggests).
Mulching plays a crucial role in soil management, offering numerous advantages.
Suitable to both outdoor and under cover beds, mulching helps regulate temperature, retain moisture, suppress weeds and in some instances improve soil fertility.
It is an essential practice for no-dig gardeners and those looking to enhance productivity while reducing maintenance efforts, but initial input is required.
Benefits
A mulch layer helps protect soil from erosion while also improving the visual appeal of a garden and its overall feel. But the benefits extend far beyond aesthetics as mulches provide a range of advantages that support ecological gardening practices.
One of the primary benefits of mulching is its ability to retain soil moisture. By limiting evaporation, mulches help maintain a consistent amount of water in the soil, which is particularly beneficial during dry periods.
This in turn reduces the need for frequent watering, making it a practical solution for water conservation. Mulching also creates a barrier that limits weed seed germination and growth, significantly reducing the need for manual weeding.
A mulch also acts as an insulator, keeping soil temperatures stable. During the warmer months, it helps cool the soil, preventing overheating of plant roots. In colder seasons, mulch provides insulation, protecting roots from frost damage.
Organic mulches enrich soil as they break down over time, slowly adding valuable nutrients to the soil as plants require them.
This process enhances soil structure, encourages beneficial microbial activity and promotes overall soil health, resulting in stronger and more resilient plants.
Bare soil when exposed to the elements will be stripped of valuable topsoil over time, leaving plants vulnerable to nutrient deficiencies and unstable growing conditions.
Dos and don’ts of mulching
Here’s a look at the dos and don’ts of getting the most from your mulch.
Do weed, water (or wait for a good blast of rain) and then cover the soil to ensure moisture is locked in. Do ensure that the mulch material is loose enough in texture for water and air to penetrate through to the soil. For example, fresh lawn mowings can become very compacted if not allowed to dry out before spreading. Do not use grass clippings if lawn has been treated with chemicals. Do not forget to continually observe your beds as mulches provide the perfect habitat for slugs so constant monitoring and the usual systems approach to slug control is required. Q&A: Supports for growing climbing peas? 
Green peas growing in the garden. \iStock
I’m enthusiastic about growing legumes this year. What support options will help my peas and beans grow vertically? - M O’Brien, Kildare
Peas and beans may both be climbers, but they require different types of support. Peas climb using delicate tendrils that will grip thin wires, twiggy branches, string or mesh as they grow upwards, while the main stem remains fairly straight. Without something fine to cling to, peas will struggle to climb.
Beans, on the other hand, twist their entire stem around supports as they grow, meaning they can handle sturdier structures like bamboo canes, hazel rods, wooden stakes or trellises. This is why they’re often called pole beans. For both crops, it is important to get the right support in place early to prevent root disturbance.
Sowings for transplanting in polytunnel: Cucumber, melon, French beans and basil.
Sowings for transplanting outdoors next month: Brussels sprouts, cabbage, Calabrese, cauliflower, celery, celeriac, chard, kohlrabi, lettuce, spring onions, sweetcorn, turnip, winter leeks and annual flowers. Amaranth, cornflowers, Cosmos, French marigold and sunflowers can be tray sown now. Gradually harden off potted plants before transplanting in May.
Direct sow outdoors: Broad beans*, parsnips, peas*, onion/shallots (from sets) and potatoes. *Module sow peas and beans if rodents are a problem.
Spring is in full swing with gardeners, retailers and the media embracing the season with gusto. Everywhere you turn and page you open, conversations are soil, seeds and plant focused, sometimes using terms that may be unfamiliar to the uninitiated.
One such term that frequently comes up among soil and ecologically focused gardeners is ‘mulching’. While it may sound technical, mulching is a straightforward yet highly effective gardening practice that mimics natural processes. At its core is the understanding that nature inherently resists bare soil.
As we are all aware, exposed ground is quickly colonised by vegetation to restore ecological balance, informing us that garden beds should always be covered to ensure healthy stable soil.
What is mulching?
Mulching simply refers to the process of covering the soil surface with a layer of organic or inorganic material to protect and improve soil conditions.
This layer acts like a protective blanket, shielding the soil from environmental stresses such as heavy rain or drought while enhancing soil fertility and structure.
Mulches can be broadly categorised into two types: organic and inorganic. Living mulches constitute another category, often referred to as green manures but are best discussed as a separate topic.
Organic mulches include materials such as straw, wood chips, bark, grass clippings, sheep wool, fresh seaweed, spent mushroom compost, leaf mould and garden compost which decompose over time, enriching the soil with essential nutrients.
In contrast, inorganic mulches such as plastic sheeting, landscape fabric, gravel and stone do not decompose and are primarily used for weed suppression and moisture retention.
Cardboard is a readily available mulch and lies somewhere in between, often being used as a base layer for mulches such as manure or wood chip which help weigh it down.
As a rule of thumb, the best mulch for your garden is the material that is most easily accessible.
However, keep in mind that fresh green mulches like grass clippings are ideal for fast-growing, nitrogen-loving plants, while a material like straw supports fungal activity and is better suited for woody perennial crops and strawberries (as the name suggests).
Mulching plays a crucial role in soil management, offering numerous advantages.
Suitable to both outdoor and under cover beds, mulching helps regulate temperature, retain moisture, suppress weeds and in some instances improve soil fertility.
It is an essential practice for no-dig gardeners and those looking to enhance productivity while reducing maintenance efforts, but initial input is required.
Benefits
A mulch layer helps protect soil from erosion while also improving the visual appeal of a garden and its overall feel. But the benefits extend far beyond aesthetics as mulches provide a range of advantages that support ecological gardening practices.
One of the primary benefits of mulching is its ability to retain soil moisture. By limiting evaporation, mulches help maintain a consistent amount of water in the soil, which is particularly beneficial during dry periods.
This in turn reduces the need for frequent watering, making it a practical solution for water conservation. Mulching also creates a barrier that limits weed seed germination and growth, significantly reducing the need for manual weeding.
A mulch also acts as an insulator, keeping soil temperatures stable. During the warmer months, it helps cool the soil, preventing overheating of plant roots. In colder seasons, mulch provides insulation, protecting roots from frost damage.
Organic mulches enrich soil as they break down over time, slowly adding valuable nutrients to the soil as plants require them.
This process enhances soil structure, encourages beneficial microbial activity and promotes overall soil health, resulting in stronger and more resilient plants.
Bare soil when exposed to the elements will be stripped of valuable topsoil over time, leaving plants vulnerable to nutrient deficiencies and unstable growing conditions.
Dos and don’ts of mulching
Here’s a look at the dos and don’ts of getting the most from your mulch.
Do weed, water (or wait for a good blast of rain) and then cover the soil to ensure moisture is locked in. Do ensure that the mulch material is loose enough in texture for water and air to penetrate through to the soil. For example, fresh lawn mowings can become very compacted if not allowed to dry out before spreading. Do not use grass clippings if lawn has been treated with chemicals. Do not forget to continually observe your beds as mulches provide the perfect habitat for slugs so constant monitoring and the usual systems approach to slug control is required. Q&A: Supports for growing climbing peas?
Green peas growing in the garden. \iStock
I’m enthusiastic about growing legumes this year. What support options will help my peas and beans grow vertically? - M O’Brien, Kildare
Peas and beans may both be climbers, but they require different types of support. Peas climb using delicate tendrils that will grip thin wires, twiggy branches, string or mesh as they grow upwards, while the main stem remains fairly straight. Without something fine to cling to, peas will struggle to climb.
Beans, on the other hand, twist their entire stem around supports as they grow, meaning they can handle sturdier structures like bamboo canes, hazel rods, wooden stakes or trellises. This is why they’re often called pole beans. For both crops, it is important to get the right support in place early to prevent root disturbance.
Sowings for transplanting in polytunnel: Cucumber, melon, French beans and basil.
Sowings for transplanting outdoors next month: Brussels sprouts, cabbage, Calabrese, cauliflower, celery, celeriac, chard, kohlrabi, lettuce, spring onions, sweetcorn, turnip, winter leeks and annual flowers. Amaranth, cornflowers, Cosmos, French marigold and sunflowers can be tray sown now. Gradually harden off potted plants before transplanting in May.
Direct sow outdoors: Broad beans*, parsnips, peas*, onion/shallots (from sets) and potatoes. *Module sow peas and beans if rodents are a problem.
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