Before I permanently moved to Ireland from Canada in 2013, I visited for the first time in 2011. At that time, my (now) husband took me around to see what the country had to offer: we hit up the Antrim coast before heading to Sligo, then travelled by bus and train through Galway to Limerick and finally to his homeplace in Tipperary.
Soon after, I spent a day in Kilkenny. This is where my love affair with this small city began, and it’s been true love ever since. When I have friends and family visiting from Canada, I always have a day trip to Kilkenny on the itinerary. Why? Because it never fails to impress.
Visitors from abroad don’t often see Kilkenny on a travel brochure. They see the Cliffs of Moher, the Giant’s Causeway, the colourful pedestrian shopping streets of Galway, or that one pub in Dublin (you know the one I’m talking about) where all those scenes from PS I Love You were filmed. They aren’t expecting a city like Kilkenny – one you can easily traverse by foot while taking in centuries-worth of history and culture.
Kilkenny is a great town for a night out with friends, but it’s also an ideal place to take the kids for a weekend trip.
In fact, it’s my Canadian nieces’ favourite place to visit when they fly over and we always do the same thing: lunch at the infamous Kyteler’s Inn (“Can we PLEASE go to the witchy place?” they beg) followed by a walk along the River Nore, up the stone staircase to the castle grounds, over to the Kilkenny Design Shop and then another walk down through the Butterslip, a pedestrian alley which feels like it belongs on a Harry Potter film set.
The Club House Kilkenny has recently undergone a €2.5m refurbishment.
Getting there
Kilkenny is served by the M9 motorway making it easily accessed along the Dublin-Waterford route. Other main roads connect Kilkenny to Carlow, Laois and Tipperary.
The train station is located at the McDonagh Junction shopping centre and is walking distance to the castle, many of the city’s hotels and the city centre. If you don’t fancy navigating the busy streets, the train is a great option; particularly if you plan to stay local.
A car is recommended if you want to get out of the city to explore. Most hotels offer guest parking.
Where to stay
Kilkenny has a wide variety of hotels and bed and breakfasts. Over the years, I’ve stayed in several for weddings, girlie weekends, work and general leisure. The best places to stay differ depending on what you’re doing and who you’re with.
The Club House Hotel
For our most recent stay (during Yulefest in December, where we did the Nore Valley Park Santa Experience), we were invited to The Club House Hotel, which is located on Patrick Street – more or less, across from the castle and just around the corner from the city’s main drag. The hotel has recently completed a €2.5m glow up; giving the Georgian-era building a stylish, warm and inviting vibe but still retaining its old-world charm (my husband and I particularly like their cosy downstairs bar). This hotel has been welcoming guests since 1797 and is run by the Brennan Family, who are proud of its history and provide a high level of hospitality.
As we were travelling with our three children, we were offered newly renovated adjoining rooms. This included a double room and a suite complete with a pull-out sofa and a kitchenette. Our kids are a bit older, and having their own room (complete with their very own kettle for making tea) was a wild, thrilling taste of freedom. They loved the roomy bathroom and its mirror, which lights up at a touch (it’s the little things). There is plenty of guest parking, the rooms are clean and comfortable, and the staff are warm and welcoming.
Anyone with three kids will understand the agony of trying to find suitable accommodation, so to have a hotel we can all comfortably and safely stay in so close to the city centre is not lost on me. We will be back. The Club House Hotel is currently offering getaways starting at €185 for an overnight package which includes dinner and breakfast.
clubhousehotel.com
Where to eat
Arán
Even if I’m just in the city for a quick shopping trip, I always stop by Arán bakery for a Parisian flan pastry and a flat white. This isn’t just the best bakery in the city – it is one of the top bakeries in the whole country.
Owners Nicole Server and Bart Pawlukojc have backgrounds in fine dining, but their Kilkenny eatery is family-friendly and casual, with reasonable prices and generous portions. Find the restaurant on one side of Barrack Street, and their ‘grab and go’ style bakery and coffee shop on the other.
arankilkenny.ie
The Italian Connection
We walked into this restaurant by chance, without a reservation, with our three kids, and it was very busy. The kind folk were able to squeeze us onto a table of five and the kids each ate a full-sized pepperoni pizza (homemade with a tasty, chewy crust and good quality toppings).
I warmed up with a delicious plate of lasagne. The service was very good – quick and family-friendly. We would come back for the food alone, but the welcome and prompt service was even nicer.
italianconnectionkilkenny.com
Butcher
The name says it all. Butcher is a vibey restaurant on the iconic Butterslip which specialises in steak and cocktails. The menu features local beef from local farmers and owner Mark Williams is a beef farmer himself. Expect steak and traditional fixings, made really well. Kids are welcome until 7pm and they offer a children’s menu.
butcherrestaurant.ie
What to do
The National Reptile Zoo
Even though some of us are deathly scared of spiders, we love walking around this zoo to observe the many reptiles, arachnids and amphibians who reside there. The zoo has over 60 themed habitats specially designed for the needs of each animal. The zoo serves to share information around habitat conservation, endangered species and the wider environment. Family passes from €43.
nrz.ie
The National Reptile Zoo is one of Kilkenny's must-visit attractions for science loving kids. \ Philip Doyle
Kilkenny Castle Tour
This is a good one for older kids. Kilkenny Castle was originally built in the 13th century and came to symbolise the fortunes of the powerful Butlers of Ormonde.
While the grounds are open to the public and free to use (there is a great playground for the little ones), you can opt for a guided tour of the castle to learn more about its history. Family tickets from €30 (under 12s are free).
kilkennycastle.ie
A view of Kilkenny Castle. /iStock
Explore St Canice’s Cathedral
St Canice’s is the oldest medieval building in Kilkenny, and it is an impressive sight. Easy walking distance from the city centre, the cathedral still holds mass and is considered a place of pilgrimage.
It is also a creative community hub and often hosts installations and events. Starting in April, you can check out their Peace Dove installation, a community-focused art project in collaboration with local schools and community organisations.
stcanicescathedral.ie
St Canice's Cathedral in Kilkenny, Ireland, a stunning example of medieval Gothic architecture. /iStock
Nore River Boat Tour
If you’re blessed with good weather, there is no better way to spend a few hours than on the peaceful River Nore on a traditional Irish open boat. These tours are 40 minutes long and the kids love watching out for kingfishers, grey herons, fish and otters in the river. The tour guides are knowledgeable about nature and full of great stories. €15 per adult; €10 per child.
boattrips.ie
Nore Valley Park Pet Farm
Open from March to October, kids of all ages will love spending time with the animals at the Nore Valley Pet Farm. Located a 10-minute drive from Kilkenny in nearby Bennettsbridge, you can ride go-karts, play mini-golf, bottle feed lambs or simply enjoy a riverside walk in its pastoral setting. €12 per adult, €11 per child.
norevalleypark.com
Janine Kennedy was a guest of The Club House Hotel.
Before I permanently moved to Ireland from Canada in 2013, I visited for the first time in 2011. At that time, my (now) husband took me around to see what the country had to offer: we hit up the Antrim coast before heading to Sligo, then travelled by bus and train through Galway to Limerick and finally to his homeplace in Tipperary.
Soon after, I spent a day in Kilkenny. This is where my love affair with this small city began, and it’s been true love ever since. When I have friends and family visiting from Canada, I always have a day trip to Kilkenny on the itinerary. Why? Because it never fails to impress.
Visitors from abroad don’t often see Kilkenny on a travel brochure. They see the Cliffs of Moher, the Giant’s Causeway, the colourful pedestrian shopping streets of Galway, or that one pub in Dublin (you know the one I’m talking about) where all those scenes from PS I Love You were filmed. They aren’t expecting a city like Kilkenny – one you can easily traverse by foot while taking in centuries-worth of history and culture.
Kilkenny is a great town for a night out with friends, but it’s also an ideal place to take the kids for a weekend trip.
In fact, it’s my Canadian nieces’ favourite place to visit when they fly over and we always do the same thing: lunch at the infamous Kyteler’s Inn (“Can we PLEASE go to the witchy place?” they beg) followed by a walk along the River Nore, up the stone staircase to the castle grounds, over to the Kilkenny Design Shop and then another walk down through the Butterslip, a pedestrian alley which feels like it belongs on a Harry Potter film set.
The Club House Kilkenny has recently undergone a €2.5m refurbishment.
Getting there
Kilkenny is served by the M9 motorway making it easily accessed along the Dublin-Waterford route. Other main roads connect Kilkenny to Carlow, Laois and Tipperary.
The train station is located at the McDonagh Junction shopping centre and is walking distance to the castle, many of the city’s hotels and the city centre. If you don’t fancy navigating the busy streets, the train is a great option; particularly if you plan to stay local.
A car is recommended if you want to get out of the city to explore. Most hotels offer guest parking.
Where to stay
Kilkenny has a wide variety of hotels and bed and breakfasts. Over the years, I’ve stayed in several for weddings, girlie weekends, work and general leisure. The best places to stay differ depending on what you’re doing and who you’re with.
The Club House Hotel
For our most recent stay (during Yulefest in December, where we did the Nore Valley Park Santa Experience), we were invited to The Club House Hotel, which is located on Patrick Street – more or less, across from the castle and just around the corner from the city’s main drag. The hotel has recently completed a €2.5m glow up; giving the Georgian-era building a stylish, warm and inviting vibe but still retaining its old-world charm (my husband and I particularly like their cosy downstairs bar). This hotel has been welcoming guests since 1797 and is run by the Brennan Family, who are proud of its history and provide a high level of hospitality.
As we were travelling with our three children, we were offered newly renovated adjoining rooms. This included a double room and a suite complete with a pull-out sofa and a kitchenette. Our kids are a bit older, and having their own room (complete with their very own kettle for making tea) was a wild, thrilling taste of freedom. They loved the roomy bathroom and its mirror, which lights up at a touch (it’s the little things). There is plenty of guest parking, the rooms are clean and comfortable, and the staff are warm and welcoming.
Anyone with three kids will understand the agony of trying to find suitable accommodation, so to have a hotel we can all comfortably and safely stay in so close to the city centre is not lost on me. We will be back. The Club House Hotel is currently offering getaways starting at €185 for an overnight package which includes dinner and breakfast.
clubhousehotel.com
Where to eat
Arán
Even if I’m just in the city for a quick shopping trip, I always stop by Arán bakery for a Parisian flan pastry and a flat white. This isn’t just the best bakery in the city – it is one of the top bakeries in the whole country.
Owners Nicole Server and Bart Pawlukojc have backgrounds in fine dining, but their Kilkenny eatery is family-friendly and casual, with reasonable prices and generous portions. Find the restaurant on one side of Barrack Street, and their ‘grab and go’ style bakery and coffee shop on the other.
arankilkenny.ie
The Italian Connection
We walked into this restaurant by chance, without a reservation, with our three kids, and it was very busy. The kind folk were able to squeeze us onto a table of five and the kids each ate a full-sized pepperoni pizza (homemade with a tasty, chewy crust and good quality toppings).
I warmed up with a delicious plate of lasagne. The service was very good – quick and family-friendly. We would come back for the food alone, but the welcome and prompt service was even nicer.
italianconnectionkilkenny.com
Butcher
The name says it all. Butcher is a vibey restaurant on the iconic Butterslip which specialises in steak and cocktails. The menu features local beef from local farmers and owner Mark Williams is a beef farmer himself. Expect steak and traditional fixings, made really well. Kids are welcome until 7pm and they offer a children’s menu.
butcherrestaurant.ie
What to do
The National Reptile Zoo
Even though some of us are deathly scared of spiders, we love walking around this zoo to observe the many reptiles, arachnids and amphibians who reside there. The zoo has over 60 themed habitats specially designed for the needs of each animal. The zoo serves to share information around habitat conservation, endangered species and the wider environment. Family passes from €43.
nrz.ie
The National Reptile Zoo is one of Kilkenny's must-visit attractions for science loving kids. \ Philip Doyle
Kilkenny Castle Tour
This is a good one for older kids. Kilkenny Castle was originally built in the 13th century and came to symbolise the fortunes of the powerful Butlers of Ormonde.
While the grounds are open to the public and free to use (there is a great playground for the little ones), you can opt for a guided tour of the castle to learn more about its history. Family tickets from €30 (under 12s are free).
kilkennycastle.ie
A view of Kilkenny Castle. /iStock
Explore St Canice’s Cathedral
St Canice’s is the oldest medieval building in Kilkenny, and it is an impressive sight. Easy walking distance from the city centre, the cathedral still holds mass and is considered a place of pilgrimage.
It is also a creative community hub and often hosts installations and events. Starting in April, you can check out their Peace Dove installation, a community-focused art project in collaboration with local schools and community organisations.
stcanicescathedral.ie
St Canice's Cathedral in Kilkenny, Ireland, a stunning example of medieval Gothic architecture. /iStock
Nore River Boat Tour
If you’re blessed with good weather, there is no better way to spend a few hours than on the peaceful River Nore on a traditional Irish open boat. These tours are 40 minutes long and the kids love watching out for kingfishers, grey herons, fish and otters in the river. The tour guides are knowledgeable about nature and full of great stories. €15 per adult; €10 per child.
boattrips.ie
Nore Valley Park Pet Farm
Open from March to October, kids of all ages will love spending time with the animals at the Nore Valley Pet Farm. Located a 10-minute drive from Kilkenny in nearby Bennettsbridge, you can ride go-karts, play mini-golf, bottle feed lambs or simply enjoy a riverside walk in its pastoral setting. €12 per adult, €11 per child.
norevalleypark.com
Janine Kennedy was a guest of The Club House Hotel.
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