The Mustard Seed: a success story that continues to sprout

With a long-standing reputation for hospitality, it’s fair to say that every guest at The Mustard Seed is made to feel like a VIP.

Or, in some cases, a VI-Parrot.

“We have a couple that comes to stay every year, maybe twice a year, with their parrot,” explains owner John Edward Joyce of the pet-friendly policy; but admits that the tropical tourist is “quite private” and, after check-in, usually retires to his bedroom.

Although?

“The parrot is known to have a sup of wine alright,” he smiles as – unlike our feathered friend – we settle with a cup of coffee to talk about life at the award-winning restaurant and country house in Ballingarry, Co Limerick, since John Edward took the reins from former owner, Dan Mullane, last year.

Not that it was a huge transition: after all, this October, the farmer’s son celebrates 25 years at The Mustard Seed, after originally coming for a short stint after finishing college.

“That was a long six months,” he laughs. “It has been a very happy time.”

Raised on a suckler and drystock farm in Clifden, Co Galway, John Edward’s first foray into the world of hospitality was working in Foyle’s Hotel as a teenager, and while he went on to study business, he continued to work part-time in catering.

“So even though it wasn’t what I was studying at the time, it was what I was doing; and I did love it,” he says.

Still, he had a vague plan of returning to college to do accountancy when he first came to work at The Mustard Seed in 1992, which at that stage was a restaurant based in Adare.

However, with owner Dan Mullane making plans to create a country house destination, John Edward was swept along and involved throughout the move to the nearby village of Ballingarry, where Dan purchased a former convent and re-opened The Mustard Seed at Echo Lodge in 1996 after an extensive refurbishment, with no detail left untended.

“One of the things I did that I’ll always remember is I cleaned the cornices in the library with a toothbrush and a small paintbrush,” recalls John, who says that when the restaurant finally re-opened, the atmosphere was “electric”.

“It just buzzed,” he says simply. “It worked.”

That John Edward would take over from Dan on his retirement was something of a no-brainer: a natural warmth and flair for hospitality courses through his veins, with TripAdvisor after TripAdvisor review praising everything – from the cup of tea and cake on arrival to the slices of brown bread that are often wrapped up and sent off with guests on their departure.

“You’re made feel that you’re part of the house,” says John Edward of the award-winning Blue Book property (and named a Michelin Guide 2018 classic), where guests are as likely to be discussing milk or mart prices as swirling a signature G&T or celebrating a significant birthday.

Part of The Mustard Seed’s enduring success is that it has always been a “local person’s treat” for dinner, with head chef Angel Pirev serving up country house cooking with a modern twist. “I suppose what it is really is fine restaurant food in a country house setting,” says John Edward. “He’s got a lovely hand and you see it in the food.”

With 16 eclectic rooms, The Mustard Seed also offers something of a retreat from the rest of the world, from its crackling open fires to its gardens and orchards tumbling with produce for the breakfast and dinner menus.

(Indeed, The Mustard Seed’s take on a Kir Royale, using their own apple syrup, makes for a most autumnal aperitif.)

While there are 18 staff in total between full- and part-time, John Edward is most definitely hands-on, whether it’s greeting and settling his guests or taking the orders and serving in the restaurant.

“I’m definitely the evening person of the house – and try to be the morning,” he adds wryly.

Though, really, you could find him doing anything. This morning, for example, he was involved in the liberation of two dogs that had locked themselves into one of the bedrooms.

“They didn’t want to go home,” he laughs.

Though while pets – including parrots – might be welcome, it’s clear that it’s John Edward’s passion for people that will see The Mustard Seed’s continued success.

“If you are in the hospitality industry, you have to be interested in people,” he concludes.

“I’m interested in people and their story and what they do and how they do it. I do love people, which makes me love this very easily.” CL

Enjoy a fine-dining Christmas get-together at the Mustard Seed at Echo Lodge on 7, 14 and 21 December. Proprietor John Edward Joyce will welcome guests with a glass of bubbles and canapés. Peruse the classic four-course dinner by a roaring fire in the library or congregate in the conservatory, where festive music is provided by the resident pianist. Classic four course-dinner with welcome bubbles and canapés at €60pp with a special overnight rate of €55pps including a Georgina Campbell award-winning breakfast. To book, phone 069-68508 or visit www.mustardseed.ie.

What we ate

(Classic dinner menu €60pp)

Thornhill duck breast with compressed peaches, hazelnuts and nasturtiums.

Wicklow Brie with lentils, yoghurt and lavender ice cream, yoghurt cake and watermelon.

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Organic leaves with honey, butternut squash and raisin dressing.

Apple and yuzu sorbet.

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Ballinwillin farm goat loin, sausage, belly, purple kale, quinoa, goat’s cheese foam, apple wedge and apple jelly.

Pat Barry’s sirloin of Irish beef, cap, spinach, celeriac and horseradish puree, multi-coloured chards and carrot.

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Dark chocolate, mango ganache, mango parfait and cocoa nib tuille.

Selection of Irish farmhouse cheese with homemade biscuits.

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Tea/ coffee and petit fours.