Many farmers erect their own livestock fencing and, with time and effort, do a very good job. Others call in a fencing contractor. Thankfully, there are many good fencing contractors who will do a quality job at a reasonable price. The Farm Relief Service is one of the biggest, operating countrywide as FRS Fencing, and in the business for 27 years. This week, I asked Robert Birney, fencing manager, FRS Fencing, based at the Roscrea headquarters in Co Tipperary, for some tips on good cattle fencing.

Layout

If dividing up ground or making paddocks, have an agricultural advisor or experienced person assist in drawing up, says Robert. "This will ensure you get the best possible layout and, for example, have the most direct and quickest access for stock to the farmyard, or that you don't have unnecessary, wasteful lengths of fencing or new farm roadway.''

If possible, keep paddocks square or rectangular shaped, he advises. "This will help jobs such as topping, mowing, etc. You will also get the most value from fertilizer spreading and if paddocks are triangular in shape, there will be more overlapping.''

"Where paddocks are being made for dairy cows, it is the number of paddocks rather than the size that is important. Traditionally, 21 paddocks evenly dividing total grazing area was considered the ideal, promoting grass quality.''

Roadways and gaps

If making new roadways for access, make them sufficiently wide for livestock and machinery to be moved with ease, Robert says. "At some stage, you will want to bale excess grass off a paddock and most mowers now are 10 feet wide. Slurry tankers are getting bigger. The roadways and also the gap openings into paddocks must be wide enough to let them travel. I would suggest that a road should be at least 10 or 12 feet wide. But, anything over 16 feet is wasteful and will be costly to make.

"Always make sure that the wire across the gap is long enough to also span across the roadway. This is obviously to make herding of cattle easier. You see situations where the road is 10 feet wide but the wire is just eight feet wide ö and the farmer is closing the gap with baler twine.''

Keep the gap into the paddock at the nearest side to the yard, he says. This obviously shortens the distance to be walked with stock.

"Never place the fence wire too near the hedge. Allow enough room for a hedge cutter to work easily behind the wire. That will stop briars and bushes taking power from the fence. It the fence wire is high enough, cattle will reach in under it and keep the ground under the wire grazed down.''

Post and wire

Consideration should be given to the materials and fence design, to get the longest possible life from the fence, he says. "Overall, we find that good, long life materials don't cost twice as much but will last three times longer.''

"We recommend long life creosote treated posts matched with hi-tensile wire, good, heavy insulation and an adequately sized electric fencer unit with the correct number of earth rods. Creosoted posts are guaranteed for 15 years but we have posts in place for over 20 years and they are still going strong. Properly galvanised high tensile wire won't have any problem matching that life.''

"For strainer posts, the standard is 2.1m long and six to eight inches (150 to 200mm) in diameter. This allows up to 1.2m (four feet) to be driven into the ground, allowing you put a good strain on the wire. If not sunk deeply enough, they can lie over or pop out of the ground. You may have to dig them in if ground is stony. But we find that where posts are driven into the ground the moisture flows away and the posts last longer than if they are put down in concrete.

"The standard intermediate posts are 1.5m long and 100mm (four inches) in diameter. This allows about 600mm (two feet) to be driven into the ground. If the roadway is higher than the field then 1.8m long, 100mm diameter posts should be used. For cattle, maybe a double strand of wire could be used along the roadway.

"We recommend 2.5mm (12-gauge) high tensile galvanised wire to British or Irish standard be used. High tensile wire will hold its strain much better than mild steel wire. A few extra euro spent on properly galvanised wire will ensure a long life service. A 650m roll of this wire sells for about €50, including VAT.

For contract fencing, FRS use as standard good quality universal insulators at the ends of the fence. "A heavy walled, Insultube staple on the intermediate posts, held in place with a large galvanised barbed, will maintain the maximum `shock' in the wire.''

Insultube

The Insultube might look like ordinary water pipe but it's of small diameter and the wall is three times thicker. Hydradare water pipe is too big for the staple and consequently gets punctured. Also, its wall is not heavy enough.

Electric fence unit

There are a range of fence units on the market for sale, Robert says. Whichever one you choose, it is important to remember a few points.

"Know the length of the fence needing power. While most fence units will put out 5,000 to 7,000 volts, they will vary in the distance they can drive this voltage. The size of fence units is measured in joules: the higher the joules, the further the volts will carry along the fence. When buying a fencer compare like with like, fencers are rated on either stored or output joules.

"A large fence unit can be expensive. But by keeping the fence line clear of vegetation, using good insulation and putting in a proper earthing system, you will ensure good power in your fence line at all times and can keep down the size and cost of the fence unit you require.''

Earthing System

"This is one of the most important but overlooked elements of electric fencing,'' Robert says.

"Be sure to use enough galvanised earth bars - they are cheap, typically selling for €7 to €10 each.

"The galvanising helps prevent rust that may otherwise prevent them carrying current. Use galvanised bolts to connect your galvanised underground cable (minimum 2.5mm diameter wire) to your earth bars.

"As a guide, you will need approximately one earth bar for every two joules of stored energy in your fence unit. Place your first earth bar about 10m away from the fence unit, and place them every 2m to 3m apart thereafter. Keep your earth system away from milking parlours.''

Costs

A single strand of electric fence erected on a boundary, using the very best of materials, will cost a farmer approximately €1 per metre, plus 13.5% VAT. A single strand paddock fence erected will cost about €1.25 per metre, plus 13.5% VAT. The higher cost for an internal fence is due to shorter runs of fence, resulting in a higher number of strainers and insulaters being used and more labour being required. Farmers can claim VAT back on permanent fencing.

"These prices may vary from farm to farm and are subject to site visit by FRS Fencing,'' Robert says.

"We offer a free quotation on every job, and work with our customers offering them advice on their fence requirement, depending on their type of land, farming enterprise and their budget.

"We deal with every job and customer on a one to one basis.

"I have noticed this year, in particular, that farmers are investing more in their paddock systems, Robert says. They are improving the design of paddocks and of water pipe networks. General design has improved. Maybe it's being driven by discussion groups.''

In addition to installing new paddock and field fencing, FRS Fencing is called in to renew existing fencing on a regular basis where it is due for renewal or needs upgrading.

*This article was originally published in the Irish Farmers Journal on 18 June 2011.