Travel: Paris, Je t’aime

They don’t call it the city of love for nothing.

When this nickname was coined, it was surely because of people falling in love – not necessarily falling in love with its food. Although, this not only seems very apt, but quite Parisian.

Either way, this is what happened to me.

My reason for going to Paris was to visit a couple of friends who are living there and working in a restaurant on a country estate outside of the city. I arrived on Saturday and, knowing I wouldn’t get to see them much until their day off on Monday, I had most of the weekend to myself.

I love solo travelling, especially on a city break. There’s so much to explore and you don’t have to worry about having any other commitments. You get to enjoy your own company and, unashamedly, eat as much food as you want.

Getting your bearings

The best way to navigate Paris is to first understand the different districts and the ‘snail map’ is the way to do that.

The city is divided into 20 districts called arrondissements, designed in a spiral shape like a snail’s shell; hence the nickname. When you get your head around this, it’s an easy city to traverse.

Other than navigation, the districts are important to understand as each has its own identity and vibe. You can pick where you want to stay based on this understanding, or where to eat.

For example, I fell in love with the 11th arrondissement, because it is a very chilled neighbourhood with streets filled with small wine shops and bars, local cafés and restaurants.

However, I stayed in the 18th arrondissement, Montmartre, in a really nice hostel called Le Régent.

The location meant the price was considerably cheaper than other districts. As I was on my own and wanted to save money for eating out, I booked a bed in a four-bed, female-only dorm, which cost €184 in total for three nights (including 10% VAT) – but the location still meant I was within 20 minutes of any central attraction by metro.

My room also had a great view of the stunning Sacré Cœur cathedral and was very close to the Moulin Rouge.

When you’ve only got 48 hours, you should pick three main landmarks to visit, as time is of the essence. I definitely underestimated how busy the city was going to be and had left booking attractions until I was there.

That was a mistake; most attractions are sold out for a few weeks ahead. I really wanted to visit the underground catacombs and unfortunately, couldn’t on this occasion – a reason to go back.

Arc de Triomphe

The Eiffel Tower is very cool and even better seen from far away, especially at night when its lights sparkle on the hour every hour.

The best view is from the rooftop of the Arc de Triomphe. You can buy a ticket for €16 per adult. It closes at 11pm during the summer and this means the last time you’ll see the Eiffel Tower sparkle is at 10pm, so you will want to time your visit well.

Prebooked tickets mean you skip the queue. Access is via a spiral staircase of 284 steps that is not for the fainthearted. There is a lift for those who need it, but it has to be booked in advance.

Musée Picasso

There are a lot of art museums in Paris, the Louvre being the most famous and largest. However, the queues for this are exceptional and you really need hours in there, so on a short visit, I would recommend one of the others.

Musée Picasso is the national museum dedicated to the life and work of Pablo Picasso. Located in Le Marais, the fourth assondissement, it is one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the city, filled with trendy shops, galleries, bars and a strong LGBTQIA+ community.

Tickets for the museum cost €16. However, it is free on the first Sunday of every month, so depending on when you travel, you might be able to take advantage of this discount.

La Galerie Dior

The Devil Wears Prada fans will love this museum, dedicated to Christian Dior and the Dior fashion house. Even if you’re not into fashion, it is still very interesting.

It begins with how this legendary designer imprinted his name on the French fashion world and journeys through 13 rooms, highlighting his most iconic works including The New Look and Dior’s tulip silhouette, and the work of his six successors.

Tickets are €14 per adult.

Eating out

It’s almost easier to write about where not to eat in Paris as there are so many incredible restaurants, cafés and bistros and the standard of food in general is very high.

But it’s a good thing to be spoilt for choice.

Like any city, there are touristy areas, and my advice would be to steer clear of these when it comes to dining. If you are visiting a tourist attraction like Cathédrale Notre-Dame or the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, don’t eat nearby.

You’ll end up paying top prices for food that isn’t as good, in most cases. Tourists generally tend to stick to the central arrondissements along the Seine River — the first, fourth, sixth, and seventh, in particular. But for great local food, you’re best to wander through the second, 10th, 11th, 19th, and 20th.

Bistrot Paul Bert had been on my list for a long time. It is French dining at its best, but without any arrogance; this local neighbourhood restaurant is casual, fun and friendly.

There is no doubt you will be in a food coma when you leave; it is very traditional and that means lots of cream and butter… all the good stuff. His most iconic dish is possibly the Steak au Poivre (steak with pepper sauce), which I am normally not a massive fan of – that was until I tasted this one. Exceptional.

Septime is a restaurant that has been top of its game and popularity since it opened, but it was its offspring that I ventured into.

Clamato is the sister bistro, a very casual style vibe, it accepts walk-ins and focuses on seafood with daily deliveries from French fishing ports.

On another corner nearby, Septime La Cave is a tiny wine bar where you can enjoy light bites or grab a glass of wine and enjoy, like a local, standing outside on the street.

The best Thai food I have eaten – having never been to Thailand – is in Paris. In Belleville, a hilly area of Paris (so expect gorgeous sunsets if you go in the evening), you’ll find Loa Siam, a Laotian and Thai restaurant.

It’s a local favourite with authentic flavours, a very cosy atmosphere and extensive wine list. Order lots of plates to share for the best experience.

PS I love you

Is 48 hours long enough to enjoy Paris? Well, you can certainly pack a lot in because the city’s metro transport is so efficient.

This trip was long enough for me to fall in love and has left me longing for my next one. Perhaps that is the beauty of it: un peu à la fois, a little at a time.

How to get there

There are several airlines that fly directly to and from Ireland to Paris, from Ryanair to Air France. Orly and Charles de Gaulle are the best airports to fly into.

Be aware that Ryanair lands in Paris-Beauvais which is 90 minutes from the city. You can get good deals on flights if you keep an eye out and book ahead, and depending on the time of year.

You generally pay anything from €50 to €150.

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