The reader loyalty code gives you full access to the site from when you enter it until the following Wednesday at 9pm. Find your unique code on the back page of Irish Country Living every week.
CODE ACCEPTED
You have full access to farmersjournal.ie on this browser until 9pm next Wednesday. Thank you for buying the paper and using the code.
CODE NOT VALID
Please try again or contact us.
For assistance, call 01 4199525
or email subs@farmersjournal.ie
If would like to speak to a member of our team, please call us on 01-4199525
Reset password
Please enter your email address and we will send you a link to reset your password
If would like to speak to a member of our team, please call us on 01-4199525
Link sent to your email address
We have sent an email to your address.
Please click on the link in this email to reset
your password. If you can't find it in your inbox,
please check your spam folder. If you can't
find the email, please call us on 01-4199525.
Email address not recognised
There is no subscription associated with this email
address. To read our subscriber-only content.
please subscribe or use the reader loyalty code.
This content is available to digital subscribers and loyalty code users only. Sign in to your account, use the code or subscribe to get unlimited access.
This content is available to digital subscribers and loyalty code users only. Sign in to your account, use the code or subscribe to get unlimited access.
George says before shearing starts you need to have the tools of the trade ready. Shearing moccasins (footwear) are a good idea because they prevent the shearer from slipping, give better support and improve the control the shearer has over the sheep. Also, special jeans that have double padding at the front help to protect the shearer's legs. A good supply of combs and cutters is required, and shearing oil, a brush, a screwdriver, sun cream and a tally counter are all useful. To start, the hand piece is left ready flat on the board in the same place for every sheep. George says it is important that it is never on its side and always flat for safety.
George says before shearing starts you need to have the tools of the trade ready. Shearing moccasins (footwear) are a good idea because they prevent the shearer from slipping, give better support and improve the control the shearer has over the sheep. Also, special jeans that have double padding at the front help to protect the shearer's legs. A good supply of combs and cutters is required, and shearing oil, a brush, a screwdriver, sun cream and a tally counter are all useful.
To start, the hand piece is left ready flat on the board in the same place for every sheep. George says it is important that it is never on its side and always flat for safety.
The sheep is taken out of the trailer. If you are a right-handed shearer take the right-hand foreleg of the sheep and your left hand should rest just on top of the brisket, which is parting the wool and getting it ready for blows on top of the brisket. The sheep's right foreleg is just behind her hip, leaving a clear way for the full of the sheep's belly to be done.
Start shearing on the top left-hand side of the brisket, right down shearing all the wool on the sheep's belly using the left hand all the time to stretch out the skin. The belly wool is left to one side. Wool is removed around the crutch if needs be and then the shearer starts the first hind leg, cleaning off the tail using the left hand to hold the tail. Finishing with blows on the backbone.
The shearer then changes position, moving the left hand down to the top of the brisket, left foot forward and the right foot in between the sheep's hind legs.
George says you should start on the upper side of the brisket, breaking open the neck wool on the upper side. As you clean off around the neck, take the ewe's ear in the left hand, all the while taking blows around the back of the head.
Continue to move the sheep around to get her parallel with the dropper and set up for the long blows along her back. As the sheep is dropped down to her shoulder for the long blows, the shearer steps over the ewe with his right foot and controls the sheep with his left foot pointing under its shoulder.
When all the wool is removed from the sheep's backbone, the shearer places a hand under the animal's cheekbone and gently directs her back into a sitting position, holding her head steady between his knees. He then cleans along the sheep's shoulder and removes all the wool on that flank using the left hand again to stretch out the skin. He continues to slowly move backwards on the left and right foot accordingly, with the sheep's head secured between his legs to allow space to go the whole way to the base of the ewe. That is the sheep complete.
The sheared fleece should be picked up and spread out flat so that it can be rolled up properly. If there are any dags or dirt on the fleece, they should be taken off. The belly wool that was moved to the side should be placed on the spread fleece at the breech end. It can be tucked in at each side, and rolled from breech to neck. A short band of the neck wool is brought back around and tucked into the middle of the fleece. This allows for every fleece to be taken out of the wool pack individually and graded properly.
Watch George's full demonstration in our video below:
Top tips for good shearing
House sheep
Animal welfare should be the main priority of the shearer. Ideally, fasting the sheep for 10 to 12 hours prior to shearing makes life easier for both the shearer and the animal. It is equally important that sheep are not put in on a clean concrete floor. Slats are ideal, but where slats are not available, an old bed where sheep were housed over the winter is good too. It's important not to let fresh loose straw contaminate the wool.
Get set up
A mobile shearing trailer or a well-thought-out setup to allow for easy handling of sheep is best. George's trailer can be filled from either the front or the back. It has a mesh floor so the sheep are less likely to get dirty. The spring-
loaded door means once you take out a sheep the door will close itself, reducing the chances of a sheep breaking away. Shearing on boards or a rubber mat is more comfortable for both the shearer and the sheep. Control of the sheep, footwork and eye-to-hand co-ordination are the name of the game in shearing.
Safety
Having a machine hanging properly and securely is important because you are dealing with electricity and electrical wires can wear if a machine is moving a lot. The electric cables should also be kept well out of the way and a safe distance from the shearer and the sheep. The stopper cord should be at the right height so that it is easy to start and stop your machine when required. Never shear wet sheep because it is bad for the shearer's health. There is a risk of electrocution and the wool will go mouldy. Used combs and cutters should all be thoroughly washed, cleaned and dried properly every night so that they are ready for sharpening.
Crutching sheep
This is important for animal welfare and for shearing. Pre-lambing, crutching is also beneficial because wool is taken off the belly, making it easier for a lamb to get in and suck, and it is more hygienic. If you crutch sheep, you will never have dirty wool going into the pack.
Irish Sheep Shearers
Association
The association provides shearing courses every year for interested farmers who want to learn how to shear or
improve their skills. It can be contacted on
086 101 0007,
or contact
senior technical adviser George Graham on 087 256 9072. Thanks to sheep farmer Richard Ryan from Kilmashogue, Rathfarnam, Co Dublin, for hosting the demo.
The IFA claims there has been ample time for the Minister and his Department to put comprehensive plans in place in the event of a bluetongue incursion.
This is a subscriber-only article
Also, special jeans that have double padding at the front help to protect the shearer's legs. A good supply of combs and cutters is required, and shearing oil, a brush, a screwdriver, sun cream and a tally counter are all useful. To start, the hand piece is left ready flat on the board in the same place for every sheep. George says it is important that it is never on its side and always flat for safety.
Start shearing on the top left-hand side of the brisket, right down shearing all the wool on the sheep's belly using the left hand all the time to stretch out the skin. The belly wool is left to one side. Wool is removed around the crutch if needs be and then the shearer starts the first hind leg, cleaning off the tail using the left hand to hold the tail. Finishing with blows on the backbone. 
The shearer then changes position, moving the left hand down to the top of the brisket, left foot forward and the right foot in between the sheep's hind legs. 
When all the wool is removed from the sheep's backbone, the shearer places a hand under the animal's cheekbone and gently directs her back into a sitting position, holding her head steady between his knees. He then cleans along the sheep's shoulder and removes all the wool on that flank using the left hand again to stretch out the skin. He continues to slowly move backwards on the left and right foot accordingly, with the sheep's head secured between his legs to allow space to go the whole way to the base of the ewe. That is the sheep complete.
The sheared fleece should be picked up and spread out flat so that it can be rolled up properly. If there are any dags or dirt on the fleece, they should be taken off. The belly wool that was moved to the side should be placed on the spread fleece at the breech end. It can be tucked in at each side, and rolled from breech to neck. A short band of the neck wool is brought back around and tucked into the middle of the fleece. This allows for every fleece to be taken out of the wool pack individually and graded properly. 
SHARING OPTIONS: