Spring is in the air at Johnstown Castle. “Woodpeckers are drumming, peacocks and swans are busy scrubbing,” says Matt Wheeler, general manager of Johnstown Castle, an Irish Heritage Trust property.

The trust is a non-profit organisation that cares for and manages the estate, museum and gardens at Johnstown Castle in Wexford.

“Agriculture is intrinsic to Johnstown Castle,” Matt explains. “Not only do the estate’s farm courtyard buildings now house the Irish Agricultural Museum – one of the largest of its kind in the country – but agriculture is also part of the castle history.

“The Fitzgeralds, the last family to own and live in Johnstown Castle, were very prominent in the local area in terms of farming. Lady Maurice Fitzgerald built up her own pedigree herd of Aberdeen Angus cattle and was a keen beekeeper,” says Matt.

Following the death of Lady Fitzgerald in 1942, the Johnstown Estate was inherited by her grandson, Maurice Victor Lakin. He decided to gift the estate to the State for agricultural purposes, and in 1945, it was formally handed over to the government under the Johnstown Castle Agricultural College Act.

The castle was used for agricultural research work and became the home of An Foras Talúntais [now Teagasc]. “Teagasc, Irish Heritage Trust, the European HQ of EPA and the Department of Agriculture all still have a base here, making us one of the biggest employers in the area,” says Matt.

“Parts of the castle were turned into laboratories for soil analysis. The researchers took soil samples from all over the country and tested them in Johnstown Castle. It completely transformed agriculture in the country because it put it on a science footing for the first time.

“It was a free service for the farmer and in three weeks, they had their soil results which helped them improve their land.”

In 1974, one of the researchers for An Foras Talúntais, Dr Austin O’Sullivan, put forward a suggestion to create an agricultural machinery collection. Austin would have been sent to farms all over the country collecting soil, and on his travels he was interested in all the different agricultural machinery.

“He started to create the museum which eventually opened its doors in 1976,” says Matt. “We’ll celebrate our 50th anniversary next year.”

Austin, now in his 80s, is still the museum director and his memoirs will be published later this year.

Irish Agricultural Museum

A Winch, circa 1900, being operated by Peter Miller, vice chair of the museum.

With its iconic southern front looking over the lake and gothic revival style architecture, the setting of Johnstown Castle and the 120-acre estate certainly adds to the overall experience of visiting the Irish Agricultural Museum.

The museum is three floors with 19 exhibitions that date from the 1800s to 1950. Developed over 40 years, there are all sorts of objects, including old milk carts, traps, farm wagons, an egg polishing machine, a goose cart for transporting geese to market and a potato sprayer to fight potato blight.

There are also stories about rural life, including the Irish Famine and the importance of the sugar beet industry in Ireland.

In 2014, what used to be old animal pens was converted into a machinery hall for some of the museum’s bigger items, including Ferguson tractors made in Belfast.

The exhibition constantly changes as machine restoration volunteers restore items to be swapped in and out of the collection. “They’ve great skills, a lot of them are ex-engineers,” says Matt. “We’re very big on volunteering. Our volunteers work in the garden, give castle tours, they are very important to us.”

As well as machines, the museum has one of Ireland’s largest vernacular displays of country furniture on display to the public. “You won’t find furniture and fittings like this today,” says Matt. “A lot of it was shipped to America in the 70s when people thought it was old fashioned.”

As part of the country kitchens exhibition, there are three recreated kitchens – one from 1800 when fire was used for cooking, another from 1900 when water came into the house, and then 1950 when electricity had arrived.

“It staggers me to realise how long it took electricity to come into some of the rural areas, like Wexford,” says Matt. “Even in the early 50s, there were still people without water and power in the house. Rural electrification did not start until 1946 and many people were fearful about electricity in their homes.”

Biodiversity

A farm kitchens display in the museum. \ Patrick Browne

On top of the castle and the museums, the rich nature is a big draw for visitors, with three lakes, a woodland playground and a walled garden attracting regular dog walkers, nature lovers and families.

Matt describes the estate as “an oasis of biodiversity”. Gardeners have planted over 13,000 native plants to benefit pollinators over the past years, including sycamore, willow, horse chestnut and lime trees.

“We monitor wildlife on the estate through a trail camera and we’ve recorded every Irish land mammal on site, including pine martin, deer, otter, foxes and red squirrel. It’s big for bird watchers too, with kingfisher, kestrel, buzzards and the great spotted woodpecker,” he says.

It staggers me to realise how long it took electricity to come into some of the rural areas

A keen birdwatcher, Matt installed swift nesting boxes in 2012. “One of those birds is still nesting there since she arrived in 2013. She’s over 10 years old now and she’s on to her second husband,” he says.

Matt, who comes from a family of dairy farmers in the Cotswolds, is following in Lady Fitzgerald’s footsteps as the chairman of south Wexford beekeepers’ association. The estate also runs beginner beekeeping courses. “Lady Fitzgerald established the group in 1911 and the Irish Black Bee is still alive and kicking in Johnstown Castle.”

In 2022, the estate was established as a conservation area for the Black Bee under a scheme administered by NIHBS (Native Irish Honey Bee Society). “No one can bring bees of unknown origin into the estate and we’re trying to encourage other landowners around the country to establish conservation areas for the Black Bee,” explains Matt.

Changes through the years

A vintage display at the Irish Agricultural Museum in Johnstown Castle Estate and Gardens. \ Patrick Browne

Having started as the museum curator back in 2011, Matt has seen a lot of changes over the years, not least the successful tender of the Irish Heritage Trust and the castle and gardens opening to the public in 2019.

“Johnstown Castle is an evolving story, and every year since 2019 has seen new conservation efforts and enhancements. Some of our biggest projects include the redevelopment of the sunken garden, the restoration of the walled garden’s herbaceous border, and the replanting of 6,000 native trees – 90% of which came from our own estate.

"We’ve also restored sections of the castle roof, including the turrets, east and west wings, and main entrance, to ensure it remains watertight for generations to come.”

Ten minutes from Wexford town and close to Rosslare for international visitors, Johnstown Castle has established itself as a top heritage destination is Ireland’s Ancient East.

Matt says there are two main types of visitors – those coming for a day and local members who buy a membership scheme which gives year-round access. “Since 2019, the numbers have risen exponentially, last year we counted 165,000 visitors.

“Why is it important to come and visit and learn about all this?” reflects Matt. “So much comes from farming and the land around us, particularly in Ireland where farming is a key part of the economy. It’s part of our heritage.”

Throughout the years and changes at Johnstown Castle, that connection between land and people remains. The layered history of the estate and the museum showing how generations before us lived and worked, is at the heart of it all a reminder that the story of the land is a story of its people.

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