While the underlying focus of Food on the Edge – a food symposium, which sees a programme of Irish and international chefs and members of the hospitality industry speak over two days – is always the future of food, the theme set to inspire this year’s speakers was Storytelling. This year’s theme was almost a broader scope and allowed for some extremely thought-provoking, personal and heartfelt talks from speakers.
This is the eighth year that Food on the Edge has taken place. Founded by JP McMahon, the aim of the symposium is to challenge our perspective on food and our connection to it. Approximately 50 chefs speak over the two-day symposium. All are chosen for their innovation, passion and influence on today’s food culture. Each speaker, with their own unique perspective, talks for 15 minutes on the cultural, social, environmental and educational aspects of food.
JP McMahon said of this year’s event, “I love the diversity of speakers at Food on the Edge… and the speakers always bring wonderful enthusiasm and energy to the stage. This year will be our fourth group of FOTE ambassadors and I see that these people who are passionate about changing Irish Food will be the legacy of Food on the Edge.”
International highlights
One of the main headline international speakers of this year’s symposium was the recently named World’s Best Female Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurant 2023 Awards, Elena Reygadas. Reygadas has five restaurants in Mexico City including the refined, Rosetta restaurant. She discussed the relationship between chefs and the natural world. She asked us all to “contemplate the role of chefs as interpreters of nature’s bounty, providing a platform to enhance culinary practices and foster a deeper connection between gastronomy and the natural world.”
Chef Roberta Hall, The Little Chart Room, Edinburgh, speaking at Food on the Edge 2023.
Toronto-based chef, writer and activist Joshna Maharaj was once again in attendance this year and I was looking forward to seeing her speak again. Her first talk at FOTE a few years ago in Galway on hospital food and her work around feeding people moved everyone so much, she got a standing ovation. She is not afraid to tell it like it is and to call us all out for not doing enough.
Roberta Hall of restaurants The Little Chart Room and Elenore in Edinburgh in Scotland gave an inspiring talk on how food from her childhood and home has influenced her food that she serves today. It was so interesting to hear about traditional Scottish dishes and how she interprets them now and how she’s not afraid to use game at the forefront of her menus.
Tom Jenkins, who is a journalist and managing editor of FineDiningLovers.com, gave one of the more shocking talks on ‘AI & Food Journalism’, I felt, as it related to my own work as a journalist. It was incredible to hear the various ways that AI is being used within the industry and how this can benefit us, but also to hear a paragraph written by chat GBT on the theme of his talk, which was frankly, and scarily, too good!
Dr Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire, an award-winning chef, educator, food historian, broadcaster and ballad singer, speaking at Food on the Edge 2023.
Homegrown inspiration
Truly though, my main takeaways and inspiration this year came from Irish people working in the industry here. Dr Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire, a senior lecturer at TU Dublin and food historian gave a fascinating insight into his background, work, and his passion for food in Irish music. I have known him for many years but I didn’t realise the extent of his work and passion. He also talked about how he is about to publish his “life work” as he called it, a new book called Irish Food History: A Companion, which sounds like a must-read for anyone interested in the where our food culture comes from.
One of the more surprising talks was Michelin-starred chef Andy McFadden from Glover’s Alley, in conversation with Ruth Hegarty.
Anyone who works in the industry in Ireland, but in particular Dublin, would have heard rumours of the kitchen culture in Glovers Alley since it opened. Andy decided to use this as an opportunity to clear the air and also to share some personal truths too.
He admitted that in the first year of opening, conditions were not good in the kitchen for various reasons but took full responsibility for his part in it and his own actions, which included kicking a young chef and allowing a drinking culture to happen. He also admitted he spent the past while dealing with an addiction himself, but that after getting help he was eight months sober. He came across as apologetic and humble, but confident and happy to say that the culture nowadays is a very positive one for him and his team, who were in the crowd to cheer him on. It was definitely one of the more personal talks and he showed a lot of courage to do it.
Taste the Atlantic Young Chef Ambassadors, from right to left, Áine Budds, Rebecca Sweeney and Sarah Browne, with their 'Making Waves' panel discussion host, Ruth Hegarty.
More incredible Irish chefs took to the stage to talk about what young chefs need in a talk called ‘Making Waves’ and included the Taste The Atlantic Young Chef Ambassadors; this year’s FOTE Ambassadors 2023 talked about their own work and backgrounds, who are: Siobhán Ní Gháirbhith (St Tola Goats Cheese), Ciara Shine (Shine’s Seafood), Brid Torrades (Ósta Café & Wine Bar Sligo & a Dexter Cattle farmer), Blátnaid Gallagher (Galway Wool Co-op & Galway native Irish lamb), Giselle M. Goncalves (Cream of the Crop) and Paul Smith (chef, food educator & co-coordinator of Wicklow Naturally).
Finally, I thought Annette Sweeney, senior lecturer in culinary arts and coordinator of culinary arts programmes at TU Dublin-Tallaght Campus, left an imprint on everyone’s mind by giving quite an emotional and passionate talk about ‘The FOTE Effect’ and how attending the symposium the first year has changed her life and work and all of the incredible educational projects that have come from it.
The producers hall at the symposium was, as always, a great lineup of some of Ireland’s amazing artisan producers, new and old, and from all corners of the island.
Annette Sweeney, senior lecturer in culinary arts & coordinator of culinary arts programmes at TU Dublin - Tallaght Campus, speaking at Food on the Edge 2023.
The event gives you an opportunity to network with so many people from Ireland and abroad, connecting with people on a level you wouldn’t have the chance to anywhere else, and gain an insight into what’s happening right now from farm to table.
Check out https://foodontheedge.ie/
‘Chefs often suffer in silence rather than saying anything and the reality is the industry is not doing enough to make change’ – Rebecca Sweeney
Jacinta Dalton – Head of the Department for Culinary Arts & Service Industries at the Atlantic Technological University, Galway
“For me, FOTE is a reset. It always very provocative. It makes you think about things that might be at the back of your mind, but when you’re suddenly in a field full of likeminded people, it amplifies issues in a different way. That’s the power of Food on the Edge.
“One issue that kept coming out of talks was the lack of engagement of our policy makers – they’re not supporting the industry or education around food. We don’t have a ministry that is properly addressing food tourism; it’s not recognised the way it should be. Especially compared to other European countries that have dedicated ministers for food. So, it can be very provocative, but equally frustrating. Everyone is so enthusiastic, but how powerful are we once we walk away?
“Joshna Maharaj (chef, instructor, two-time TEDx speaker, and activist) spoke about culinary education and how she’s throwing the way they’ve been doing it out the window and have started again. As an educator also, it’s so important to me to hear these perspectives. We need to look at how we’re educating our future generation.
“Another topic which struck me is a discussion I had around the disconnect between farming and food. This has largely to do with procurement and again is happening because the people who can make the change are not in the room.
“Whether it’s a hospital or university – all of the food for these institutions is being procured from a catalogue. The system doesn’t allow you to support local farmers and artisan producers, to allow them to get into the system. It favours the monopoly supplier. That has to change.”
Rebecca Sweeney – head chef, Hooked, Sligo and Taste The Atlantic Young Chef Ambassador
“I thought it was great. I feel like the theme ‘storytelling’ was a great opportunity for people to talk about the personal side of things. Chefs have a hard time sometimes talking about their own personal experiences so that was great to see.
“I thought Andy McFadden’s talk especially was fantastic. To hear a male figure in the industry break down walls and admit he was wrong. There are lots of chefs making mistakes but you don’t hear them admit it and so it was great to see someone actually taking responsibility. The way he said that it was time for him to prove that he can change.
“I took part in a panel discussion called Making Waves with the two other Taste the Atlantic Young Chef Ambassadors, Áine Budds and Sarah Browne.
“My main points were that there needs to be a lot more patience in the industry and how crucial it is for staff development. Young people get fast-tracked and then left behind, but yet they’re expected to perform miracles.
“People talk all the time about sustainability but not enough about staff sustainability. You can’t make change unless you put power behind people.
“Chefs often suffer in silence rather than saying anything and the reality is the industry is not doing enough to make change.”
Read more
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While the underlying focus of Food on the Edge – a food symposium, which sees a programme of Irish and international chefs and members of the hospitality industry speak over two days – is always the future of food, the theme set to inspire this year’s speakers was Storytelling. This year’s theme was almost a broader scope and allowed for some extremely thought-provoking, personal and heartfelt talks from speakers.
This is the eighth year that Food on the Edge has taken place. Founded by JP McMahon, the aim of the symposium is to challenge our perspective on food and our connection to it. Approximately 50 chefs speak over the two-day symposium. All are chosen for their innovation, passion and influence on today’s food culture. Each speaker, with their own unique perspective, talks for 15 minutes on the cultural, social, environmental and educational aspects of food.
JP McMahon said of this year’s event, “I love the diversity of speakers at Food on the Edge… and the speakers always bring wonderful enthusiasm and energy to the stage. This year will be our fourth group of FOTE ambassadors and I see that these people who are passionate about changing Irish Food will be the legacy of Food on the Edge.”
International highlights
One of the main headline international speakers of this year’s symposium was the recently named World’s Best Female Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurant 2023 Awards, Elena Reygadas. Reygadas has five restaurants in Mexico City including the refined, Rosetta restaurant. She discussed the relationship between chefs and the natural world. She asked us all to “contemplate the role of chefs as interpreters of nature’s bounty, providing a platform to enhance culinary practices and foster a deeper connection between gastronomy and the natural world.”
Chef Roberta Hall, The Little Chart Room, Edinburgh, speaking at Food on the Edge 2023.
Toronto-based chef, writer and activist Joshna Maharaj was once again in attendance this year and I was looking forward to seeing her speak again. Her first talk at FOTE a few years ago in Galway on hospital food and her work around feeding people moved everyone so much, she got a standing ovation. She is not afraid to tell it like it is and to call us all out for not doing enough.
Roberta Hall of restaurants The Little Chart Room and Elenore in Edinburgh in Scotland gave an inspiring talk on how food from her childhood and home has influenced her food that she serves today. It was so interesting to hear about traditional Scottish dishes and how she interprets them now and how she’s not afraid to use game at the forefront of her menus.
Tom Jenkins, who is a journalist and managing editor of FineDiningLovers.com, gave one of the more shocking talks on ‘AI & Food Journalism’, I felt, as it related to my own work as a journalist. It was incredible to hear the various ways that AI is being used within the industry and how this can benefit us, but also to hear a paragraph written by chat GBT on the theme of his talk, which was frankly, and scarily, too good!
Dr Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire, an award-winning chef, educator, food historian, broadcaster and ballad singer, speaking at Food on the Edge 2023.
Homegrown inspiration
Truly though, my main takeaways and inspiration this year came from Irish people working in the industry here. Dr Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire, a senior lecturer at TU Dublin and food historian gave a fascinating insight into his background, work, and his passion for food in Irish music. I have known him for many years but I didn’t realise the extent of his work and passion. He also talked about how he is about to publish his “life work” as he called it, a new book called Irish Food History: A Companion, which sounds like a must-read for anyone interested in the where our food culture comes from.
One of the more surprising talks was Michelin-starred chef Andy McFadden from Glover’s Alley, in conversation with Ruth Hegarty.
Anyone who works in the industry in Ireland, but in particular Dublin, would have heard rumours of the kitchen culture in Glovers Alley since it opened. Andy decided to use this as an opportunity to clear the air and also to share some personal truths too.
He admitted that in the first year of opening, conditions were not good in the kitchen for various reasons but took full responsibility for his part in it and his own actions, which included kicking a young chef and allowing a drinking culture to happen. He also admitted he spent the past while dealing with an addiction himself, but that after getting help he was eight months sober. He came across as apologetic and humble, but confident and happy to say that the culture nowadays is a very positive one for him and his team, who were in the crowd to cheer him on. It was definitely one of the more personal talks and he showed a lot of courage to do it.
Taste the Atlantic Young Chef Ambassadors, from right to left, Áine Budds, Rebecca Sweeney and Sarah Browne, with their 'Making Waves' panel discussion host, Ruth Hegarty.
More incredible Irish chefs took to the stage to talk about what young chefs need in a talk called ‘Making Waves’ and included the Taste The Atlantic Young Chef Ambassadors; this year’s FOTE Ambassadors 2023 talked about their own work and backgrounds, who are: Siobhán Ní Gháirbhith (St Tola Goats Cheese), Ciara Shine (Shine’s Seafood), Brid Torrades (Ósta Café & Wine Bar Sligo & a Dexter Cattle farmer), Blátnaid Gallagher (Galway Wool Co-op & Galway native Irish lamb), Giselle M. Goncalves (Cream of the Crop) and Paul Smith (chef, food educator & co-coordinator of Wicklow Naturally).
Finally, I thought Annette Sweeney, senior lecturer in culinary arts and coordinator of culinary arts programmes at TU Dublin-Tallaght Campus, left an imprint on everyone’s mind by giving quite an emotional and passionate talk about ‘The FOTE Effect’ and how attending the symposium the first year has changed her life and work and all of the incredible educational projects that have come from it.
The producers hall at the symposium was, as always, a great lineup of some of Ireland’s amazing artisan producers, new and old, and from all corners of the island.
Annette Sweeney, senior lecturer in culinary arts & coordinator of culinary arts programmes at TU Dublin - Tallaght Campus, speaking at Food on the Edge 2023.
The event gives you an opportunity to network with so many people from Ireland and abroad, connecting with people on a level you wouldn’t have the chance to anywhere else, and gain an insight into what’s happening right now from farm to table.
Check out https://foodontheedge.ie/
‘Chefs often suffer in silence rather than saying anything and the reality is the industry is not doing enough to make change’ – Rebecca Sweeney
Jacinta Dalton – Head of the Department for Culinary Arts & Service Industries at the Atlantic Technological University, Galway
“For me, FOTE is a reset. It always very provocative. It makes you think about things that might be at the back of your mind, but when you’re suddenly in a field full of likeminded people, it amplifies issues in a different way. That’s the power of Food on the Edge.
“One issue that kept coming out of talks was the lack of engagement of our policy makers – they’re not supporting the industry or education around food. We don’t have a ministry that is properly addressing food tourism; it’s not recognised the way it should be. Especially compared to other European countries that have dedicated ministers for food. So, it can be very provocative, but equally frustrating. Everyone is so enthusiastic, but how powerful are we once we walk away?
“Joshna Maharaj (chef, instructor, two-time TEDx speaker, and activist) spoke about culinary education and how she’s throwing the way they’ve been doing it out the window and have started again. As an educator also, it’s so important to me to hear these perspectives. We need to look at how we’re educating our future generation.
“Another topic which struck me is a discussion I had around the disconnect between farming and food. This has largely to do with procurement and again is happening because the people who can make the change are not in the room.
“Whether it’s a hospital or university – all of the food for these institutions is being procured from a catalogue. The system doesn’t allow you to support local farmers and artisan producers, to allow them to get into the system. It favours the monopoly supplier. That has to change.”
Rebecca Sweeney – head chef, Hooked, Sligo and Taste The Atlantic Young Chef Ambassador
“I thought it was great. I feel like the theme ‘storytelling’ was a great opportunity for people to talk about the personal side of things. Chefs have a hard time sometimes talking about their own personal experiences so that was great to see.
“I thought Andy McFadden’s talk especially was fantastic. To hear a male figure in the industry break down walls and admit he was wrong. There are lots of chefs making mistakes but you don’t hear them admit it and so it was great to see someone actually taking responsibility. The way he said that it was time for him to prove that he can change.
“I took part in a panel discussion called Making Waves with the two other Taste the Atlantic Young Chef Ambassadors, Áine Budds and Sarah Browne.
“My main points were that there needs to be a lot more patience in the industry and how crucial it is for staff development. Young people get fast-tracked and then left behind, but yet they’re expected to perform miracles.
“People talk all the time about sustainability but not enough about staff sustainability. You can’t make change unless you put power behind people.
“Chefs often suffer in silence rather than saying anything and the reality is the industry is not doing enough to make change.”
Read more
My first job: Picking spuds, baby-sitting, coaching and packing peat
Irish cheese wins big at the 2023 Irish Food Writer's Guild Awards
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