Out of Africa: exploring remote, authentic Kenya

"I had a farm in Africa at the foot of the Ngong Hills…” The opening line of Karen Blixen’s 1937 novel sets the scene for my trip to Kenya, a bucket list item that I embarked on with my son, Mark.

A tour of Blixen’s House on the outskirts of Nairobi is our introduction to Kenya. Our guide, Martin, holds his fist up to the map of the Ngong Hills hanging in the hallway and explains Ngong is Swahili for knuckle.

Inside the house is full of memorabilia and props used in the 1985 movie Out of Africa, starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford.

• museums.or.ke/karen-blixen

Manzili House

We are on safari with New African Territories and our guide Ashen brings us next to Manzili House. Vanessa Roumeguere and her husband George welcome us into their home like old friends. They’ve crafted a property set around a swimming pool, with features of Swahili architecture and carvings found on the Kenyan island of Lamu.

In the evening, we sit under branches and watch the prowling bush babies. A one night stay isn’t enough at this beautiful house where we are catered for by Henri, who is more than a butler – he is our saviour next morning when we learn our flight is leaving 90 minutes earlier than expected.

However, we’re assured the plane will wait for us. This is Africa after all and everything operates at a different pace.

• manzilihouse.com

The African massage

True to their word, Safarilink Airways take us in a 12-seat plane from Cessna to Kamala Airstrip in Samburu country. From there, it’s a three hour drive in a Land Cruiser through rocky terrain before we reach Kitich Forest Camp.

Our guide Moris tells us to: “Enjoy the African massage,” as we bump along the rocky road and look out for wildlife. Our first sighting is of an ostrich, one of the Sumburu Special Five.

He adds that the warthogs we pass are one of the Ugly Five that include hyenas and wildebeest. There’s more to see than the Big Five traditionally sought on safari. East Africa is also a haven for twitchers with over 350 species in the Matthews Mountains alone.

Haven of tranquility

The next day we go trekking through the mountains while our guide Simon, informs us about the healing properties of the wild trees and plants.

We pass several herdsmen with sheep and cows whose animals fertilise the forest and maintain the delicate natural balance of the ecosystem.

Another guide, Peter falls in at the rear with an AK47 gun. He might look intimidating but this is only for our protection should a stray lion or elephant have any notions that we are dinner.

We stop for a swim at the Ngari Rver, before the crew brings us to a beauty spot for picnic lunch. Kitich is a haven of tranquility only possible because of its remote location and the exceptional service.

We might be staying in canopy tents but they are far from basic, equipped with outdoor bucket showers and crisp white linen sheets on the beds.

Technology isn’t far away as the bar area offers the full convenience of wifi but we enjoy leisurely chats in the evening with other guests around the fire. It’s possible to go Fly Camping which includes a seven mile trek to a tented camp and a unique opportunity to soak up a wild slice of Africa but we stay put.

• kitichforestcamp.com

We didn’t want to leave Kitich but an interesting step on our journey awaited us – a visit to Reteti Elephant Camp. This reserve in Samburu Country is dedicated to saving orphaned elephants.

The story of little Longuro who was left with a third of his trunk after an attack by hyenas leaves us almost in tears. But his story is a happy one and we get to meet him as he runs up to be fed with the dozens of others by giant bottles filled with milk and vitamins.

Carers hum a traditional Samburu song during feeding time and the spectacle is the highlight of the visit. The centre is completely sustained by donations and entrance fees and it is a must visit in the area.

• reteti.org

Saruni Basecamp

Our next stay is at Saruni Basecamp and we are brought there by Jimmy Kiondoste who wears full Samburu Warrior Dress and tells us how in the past he was a warrior but now he is married.

When we ask him his age, he replies that his parents say he’s somewhere between 35 and 40 – he looks about 25. The drive to this stunningly elevated camp is filled with chances to see the animals and birds that East Africa is famous for.

Jimmy has ideas on how we are going to enjoy our time in Saruni and next morning we are up bright and early at 6am.

After spotting the Samburu Giraffe and Samburu Zebra (both have different markings to those in the Serengeti), we photograph a bull elephant who is wandering alone, we stop off for breakfast at Jimmy’s favourite spot beside a river.

Here he takes out a picnic table covered with traditional Samburu cloth. It’s surprising how hot and fresh the food is on these picnics. We enjoy scrambled eggs and sausages with tomatoes, smoothies and a bowl of fresh fruit with yogurt.

Then Jimmy produces a paper bag filled with regalia to turn us into Samburu, as the MAA Cultural Festival is on in the neighbouring town.

With neck rings, headdress, feathers and cloth wraps, we are transformed to fit in with the tribes who will gather to spend a weekend celebrating their culture through song and dance.

At the entrance to the festival are lines of women selling handmade crafts and carvings. Throngs of buses arrive with choirs and warriors. To say this is like the Fleadh Ceoil on steroids is an understatement.

At Saruni Basecamp, sweeping plains crowned by majestic hills make it a place that soothes the soul. Our room is in one of the six villas carved into the rock but it still has modern conveniences. We’ve a settee and veranda to enjoy the view of animals below and at night, a net is draped around our beds to brush away insects.

In the evenings, as is customary on safari, we sit around a camp fire at the mess. The resort manager, Benson, is an expert in astronomy and he takes out his telescope so we can view the planets and stars.

Under the stars, Mark and I sit and chat about our experience. This is one bucket list experience that will stay in our memories forever.

• sarunibasecamp.com

Highlight

We spent two nights at Olepangi Farm. This oasis in the rolling hills at the foot of Mount Kenya is a self sustaining farm to fork dining stay and aspirational on many levels. All of the accommodation is designed in biophile architecture style and carefully blended into the natural landscape.

Farm to Fork dining

Outside, the garden and orchard display a cornucopia of ripe colourful vegetables. The idyllic climate offers three harvests per year for some of the crops. Others include avocados, lemons, pomegranates and all the staples from cabbages to tomatoes. Horse riding is available and two retired polo ponies, Celtic and Travis brought us on a jaunt around the farm.

• olepangifarm.com