At the end of summer, I received a notification saying I still had X amount of holidays to take before the end of the year. I’m sure it’s not just me. Let’s face it: it’s 2020 and we have no plans.
After much discussion around what we should do, my husband and I came to a compromise: a quick, socially distanced trip to west Cork.
Secluded ocean scenery at Inchydoney Beach.
Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa has a mid-week offering they call “Unplug, Unwind and Reconnect”. It includes two nights bed and breakfast, dinner on one evening in The Gulfstream Restaurant, spa treatments and access to their heated salt-water indoor pool. I’m always sceptical regarding these promotions – I’m not the kind of person who can just “relax”. And with COVID-19 guidelines in place, I find most hotels currently lack that special “just-for-you” service you look for in an escape.
Safe and relaxing
That said, my husband and I haven’t gone away – just the two of us – in a long time, so we decided to go for it. And Inchydoney felt safe, comfortable and just the right amount of luxurious. Social distancing rules were adhered to and pre-booking for meals and the pool were essential, but the added touches of hospitality weren’t lost.
One of the bedrooms at Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa.
Des O’Dowd is the proprietor of Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa. He says he feels a responsibility to his guests who have chosen to travel to west Cork at this time.
“There are indeed new protocols around booking breakfast and pool times, which may require some pre-planning,” he says. “We also ensure the highest standards of cleansing and hygiene are carried out across the property; however, we endeavour to do so behind the scenes as much as possible so this doesn’t negatively affect our guests’ experience with us.”
Seaside indulgence
Travelling from Tipperary, we arrived at Inchydoney in just over two hours. We were welcomed at reception and shown to our room, which faced the left-hand side of the beach. Each room includes a balcony and lounge chairs overlooking the ocean.
Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa.
Dinner was locally sourced and delicious. I started my meal with seared scallops, followed by tempura monkfish. The views from The Gulfstream Restaurant’s massive windows are an ideal dinner accompaniment.
The following morning, breakfast was served directly to our table. This is one element of COVID-19 guidelines I prefer. Breakfast buffets, even in the nicest hotels, are generally disappointing.
The Relaxation Room at Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa.
Again with views of the ocean, we were brought a tray of yoghurt, fresh fruit and pastries followed by toast and our breakfast of choice. After a morning swim, some sea-water spa treatments, a walk along the beach and a splash in the waves, we road-tripped down the N71 from Clonakilty to Skibbereen, which takes about 40 minutes.
Fairies and folklore
The village of Leap, located at the halfway point, is very charming. This was one instance where I wished we had brought our children, because the fairy village found behind Ger’s Wild Atlantic Diner is perfectly magical; built amidst the Leap Historic Waterfall and gorge. The gorge itself is connected to local folklore, as the other side was considered a safe haven for those on the run from the law.
West Cork nature
Another stop on our roadtrip was to Lough Hyne. A steep, winding descent took us to this inland “sea lough” (it’s connected to the Atlantic by a narrow channel) and the views (combined with the beautiful weather during our stay) didn’t disappoint.
The lake is fed by ocean currents, which make it saline, though originally it was fresh water. The warm, salt water environment and unique landscape makes Lough Hyne one of the most biodiverse regions in all of Ireland. Take a walk along the loop trail or try your hand at sea kayaking, if you’re feeling adventurous (atlanticseakayaking.com).
Dining at Dede
For dinner, we visited chef Ahmet Dede’s new restaurant at The Custom’s House in Baltimore; aptly named Dede. Ahmet achieved a Michelin star in his previous post at Mews, which was located just a few doors down.
Fresh sourdough with warm saksuke at Dede, Baltimore, west Cork.
When Mews closed last year, Ahmet wanted to celebrate his roots (he is originally from Turkey) and make the most of west Cork produce. The five-course, set menu dinner (€60 per person) is beautifully presented on hand-made crockery. The menu changes regularly, but when we dined it featured fresh sourdough with warm saksuke (a spiced tomato and eggplant dip), manti (tiny meat-filled dumplings), an intensely flavourful tomato salad, slow-roasted lamb shoulder with preserved lemon and a refreshing, chilled dessert with grapes, blackberries and apple.
Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with preserved lemon at Dede, Baltimore, west Cork.
Ahmet’s care and consideration with each course made for an exceptional dining experience; high end but with a home-cooked feel.
www.customshousebaltimore.com/dede
A seaview sunset
A sunset climb to the Beacon was welcome after dinner.
The Beacon in Baltimore, west Cork.
It’s a quick, five-minute drive from Baltimore to the car park– even from there, the sunset was impressive. On the cliff, you’re given an entirely new perspective. The surrounding islands and seascape connect in one big, rolling wave of green and blue.
After a restful sleep (so rare for parents of young children), we drove back to reality. I guess those promises of relaxation aren’t all that far-fetched - at least, not in west Cork.
The mid-week Unplug, Unwind and Reconnect stay was provided compliments of Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa. Available from €323 per person. All other activities/expenses were not included. This trip took place before Level 3 COVID-19 restrictions were introduced. It is important to adhere to the new measures regarding hospitality. Chef Ahmet Dede is offering limited outdoor dining service and takeaway from Friday 9 October (operating three days per week). Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa remains in full operation for Co Cork residents only.
At the end of summer, I received a notification saying I still had X amount of holidays to take before the end of the year. I’m sure it’s not just me. Let’s face it: it’s 2020 and we have no plans.
After much discussion around what we should do, my husband and I came to a compromise: a quick, socially distanced trip to west Cork.
Secluded ocean scenery at Inchydoney Beach.
Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa has a mid-week offering they call “Unplug, Unwind and Reconnect”. It includes two nights bed and breakfast, dinner on one evening in The Gulfstream Restaurant, spa treatments and access to their heated salt-water indoor pool. I’m always sceptical regarding these promotions – I’m not the kind of person who can just “relax”. And with COVID-19 guidelines in place, I find most hotels currently lack that special “just-for-you” service you look for in an escape.
Safe and relaxing
That said, my husband and I haven’t gone away – just the two of us – in a long time, so we decided to go for it. And Inchydoney felt safe, comfortable and just the right amount of luxurious. Social distancing rules were adhered to and pre-booking for meals and the pool were essential, but the added touches of hospitality weren’t lost.
One of the bedrooms at Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa.
Des O’Dowd is the proprietor of Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa. He says he feels a responsibility to his guests who have chosen to travel to west Cork at this time.
“There are indeed new protocols around booking breakfast and pool times, which may require some pre-planning,” he says. “We also ensure the highest standards of cleansing and hygiene are carried out across the property; however, we endeavour to do so behind the scenes as much as possible so this doesn’t negatively affect our guests’ experience with us.”
Seaside indulgence
Travelling from Tipperary, we arrived at Inchydoney in just over two hours. We were welcomed at reception and shown to our room, which faced the left-hand side of the beach. Each room includes a balcony and lounge chairs overlooking the ocean.
Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa.
Dinner was locally sourced and delicious. I started my meal with seared scallops, followed by tempura monkfish. The views from The Gulfstream Restaurant’s massive windows are an ideal dinner accompaniment.
The following morning, breakfast was served directly to our table. This is one element of COVID-19 guidelines I prefer. Breakfast buffets, even in the nicest hotels, are generally disappointing.
The Relaxation Room at Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa.
Again with views of the ocean, we were brought a tray of yoghurt, fresh fruit and pastries followed by toast and our breakfast of choice. After a morning swim, some sea-water spa treatments, a walk along the beach and a splash in the waves, we road-tripped down the N71 from Clonakilty to Skibbereen, which takes about 40 minutes.
Fairies and folklore
The village of Leap, located at the halfway point, is very charming. This was one instance where I wished we had brought our children, because the fairy village found behind Ger’s Wild Atlantic Diner is perfectly magical; built amidst the Leap Historic Waterfall and gorge. The gorge itself is connected to local folklore, as the other side was considered a safe haven for those on the run from the law.
West Cork nature
Another stop on our roadtrip was to Lough Hyne. A steep, winding descent took us to this inland “sea lough” (it’s connected to the Atlantic by a narrow channel) and the views (combined with the beautiful weather during our stay) didn’t disappoint.
The lake is fed by ocean currents, which make it saline, though originally it was fresh water. The warm, salt water environment and unique landscape makes Lough Hyne one of the most biodiverse regions in all of Ireland. Take a walk along the loop trail or try your hand at sea kayaking, if you’re feeling adventurous (atlanticseakayaking.com).
Dining at Dede
For dinner, we visited chef Ahmet Dede’s new restaurant at The Custom’s House in Baltimore; aptly named Dede. Ahmet achieved a Michelin star in his previous post at Mews, which was located just a few doors down.
Fresh sourdough with warm saksuke at Dede, Baltimore, west Cork.
When Mews closed last year, Ahmet wanted to celebrate his roots (he is originally from Turkey) and make the most of west Cork produce. The five-course, set menu dinner (€60 per person) is beautifully presented on hand-made crockery. The menu changes regularly, but when we dined it featured fresh sourdough with warm saksuke (a spiced tomato and eggplant dip), manti (tiny meat-filled dumplings), an intensely flavourful tomato salad, slow-roasted lamb shoulder with preserved lemon and a refreshing, chilled dessert with grapes, blackberries and apple.
Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with preserved lemon at Dede, Baltimore, west Cork.
Ahmet’s care and consideration with each course made for an exceptional dining experience; high end but with a home-cooked feel.
www.customshousebaltimore.com/dede
A seaview sunset
A sunset climb to the Beacon was welcome after dinner.
The Beacon in Baltimore, west Cork.
It’s a quick, five-minute drive from Baltimore to the car park– even from there, the sunset was impressive. On the cliff, you’re given an entirely new perspective. The surrounding islands and seascape connect in one big, rolling wave of green and blue.
After a restful sleep (so rare for parents of young children), we drove back to reality. I guess those promises of relaxation aren’t all that far-fetched - at least, not in west Cork.
The mid-week Unplug, Unwind and Reconnect stay was provided compliments of Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa. Available from €323 per person. All other activities/expenses were not included. This trip took place before Level 3 COVID-19 restrictions were introduced. It is important to adhere to the new measures regarding hospitality. Chef Ahmet Dede is offering limited outdoor dining service and takeaway from Friday 9 October (operating three days per week). Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa remains in full operation for Co Cork residents only.
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