With the winter months just around the corner and the majority of cattle housed, many farmers will take this opportunity to carry out some hedgerow maintenance or be on standby to tidy up some trees that may be blown down in stormy weather.
In most circumstances where the chainsaw is not in regular use and in many cases a seasonal tool, it is rarely thought about until it is needed and at that it is expected to perform on the first pull of the cord. So, here are some tips to help get the best out of your chainsaw this coming winter.
Spark plugs
It is good practice at every service to replace the saw’s spark plug. A replacement spark plug will only cost in the region of €5. A worn out spark plug will leave the chainsaw hard to start or in some cases it will fail to start. When replacing the spark plug, examine its condition. If the porcelain insulator is cracked, an electrode may be damaged or burnt.
A worn spark plug may show other underlying issues. A grey colouring may indicate piston damage, whereby this grey colouration is the result of aluminium burning in the cylinder.
Air and fuel filter
Many operators leave a chainsaw sitting up for a long period with fuel in the tank. Ideally, the tank should be left empty over long periods. Otherwise, some of the two-stroke fuel mix ingredients may evaporate and leave behind a jelly-like substance. This may clog up the carburettor. In most cases, carburettor cleaner will resolve the issue, but, in a worst case scenario, the carburettor may need rebuilding or replacement.
The air filter should be always kept clean and replaced at every service or more frequently depending on use.
Every service should see the fuel filter replaced, which will typically cost only €5 or €6. The air filter should be replaced during every service or more frequently depending on condition and use. Air filters will generally cost no more than €15.
A blocked air filter will result in restricted power as the engine is receiving too much fuel and not enough air. This will smother the engine and cause it to run rough or stall. The filter should be removed and cleaned out regularly during cutting to remove any large dust particles. All air vents on the saw must be kept clear and free from dust build-up.
Guide bar and sprocket
Often the chain receives all the attention and the guide bar is overlooked as a result. The track on which the chain runs needs to be kept clean if the chain oil is to lubricate the chain properly. The chain guide bar is fitted with a bearing and sprocket. This bearing, like any bearing, should receive grease regularly.
The guide bar is a wearing part. If the chain channel has widened enough that the chain has become loose, then it will need to be replaced or turned. The top side will naturally wear more, so when wear just about becomes visible it is often a good idea to turn the guide bar upside down to get that bit extra use out of it before replacement.
Chain brake
The chain brake is a completely essential safety feature on any chainsaw. This needs to be functional. This is simply a steel band around the saw’s clutch drum. Once activated, rotation of the chain stops immediately. It is good practice to apply the brake every time the saw is left down or not in use. A saw with no chain brake should not be used.
Chain and chain oil
The amount of work done, and more importantly the type of timber being cut, will depend on how long a chain will stay sharp. If the chain comes into contact with clay, then it will immediately lose its edge. If pressure or leaning is required to make the saw cut, then it is generally in need of sharpening.
A two-in-one sharpening tool sharpens the cutters and lowers the depth gauges at the same time.
A chain can be sharpened manually with a file or using an electric sharpener. An electric sharpener may be quicker, but a simple round file or two-in-one tool is handy when out and about, eliminating the need to return to the yard or have it professionally sharpened. The two-in-one tool sharpens both the cutters and depth gauge (rakers) simultaneously. It is important to identify the chain type, which in turn determines the size of the file needed and the angle at which the chain is sharpened.
This method requires some skill and patience to perfect. A chain that has been sharpened unevenly will not cut straight and will wear unevenly. Each tooth has a witness mark on the top, which has two functions. Firstly, it indicates the sharpening angle and secondly, it marks the end of the chain’s life when filed to this point.
To sharpen, the file should be held level and at the correct angle. It then needs to be drawn from the inside of the cutter to the outside of the cutter with an equal number of rubs across for each cutter, ensuring the chain is evenly sharpened.
As a chain is sharpened, its depth gauges need to be lowered. Too low and the saw will be biting too much into the timber, causing it to jump, and if too high, the chainsaw will be unable to cut the timber. If in doubt, it may be worthwhile having the chain professionally sharpened. A replacement chain will cost in the region of €20 to €25 depending on brand and size.
Chain tension is important – too tight and it will not move freely on the guide bar; too loose and it has the possibility of coming off the guide bar. It should be tightened to the point that it is just resting against the bottom side of the guide bar. Run the saw for a few minutes and recheck the tension and adjust if necessary.
A chain can generally be sharpened using one of three methods: electric grinding tool (left), using standard round and flat files (midle) or by a two-in-one sharpening tool (right).
Common error
A common mistake made by many is that proper chain oil is not used. Waste oil or light oils should not be used, as they do not have the proper cling qualities and therefore are flung straight off the chain. Dedicated chain oil is relatively inexpensive considering the quantity used. Chain oil should be filled every time fuel is filled.
The correct PPE should always be worn.
In short
The chainsaw’s spark plug, fuel and air filter should be replaced during every service, with the air filter cleaned regularly during use. The condition of the chain and guide bar should be inspected. The chain brake should always be functional and the chain catcher also intact.
If you find yourself leaning on the saw to help it cut, then it needs sharpening. If using a file, use the correct file and draw it equally and evenly across all cutters at the angle of the witness marks.
Chain tension should be so that the chain is just resting on the bottom of the guide bar and regularly checked. Try leave the fuel tank empty if not in use for long periods. Finally, it’s important that all guards are intact and the correct PPE is worn at all times.
With the winter months just around the corner and the majority of cattle housed, many farmers will take this opportunity to carry out some hedgerow maintenance or be on standby to tidy up some trees that may be blown down in stormy weather.
In most circumstances where the chainsaw is not in regular use and in many cases a seasonal tool, it is rarely thought about until it is needed and at that it is expected to perform on the first pull of the cord. So, here are some tips to help get the best out of your chainsaw this coming winter.
Spark plugs
It is good practice at every service to replace the saw’s spark plug. A replacement spark plug will only cost in the region of €5. A worn out spark plug will leave the chainsaw hard to start or in some cases it will fail to start. When replacing the spark plug, examine its condition. If the porcelain insulator is cracked, an electrode may be damaged or burnt.
A worn spark plug may show other underlying issues. A grey colouring may indicate piston damage, whereby this grey colouration is the result of aluminium burning in the cylinder.
Air and fuel filter
Many operators leave a chainsaw sitting up for a long period with fuel in the tank. Ideally, the tank should be left empty over long periods. Otherwise, some of the two-stroke fuel mix ingredients may evaporate and leave behind a jelly-like substance. This may clog up the carburettor. In most cases, carburettor cleaner will resolve the issue, but, in a worst case scenario, the carburettor may need rebuilding or replacement.
The air filter should be always kept clean and replaced at every service or more frequently depending on use.
Every service should see the fuel filter replaced, which will typically cost only €5 or €6. The air filter should be replaced during every service or more frequently depending on condition and use. Air filters will generally cost no more than €15.
A blocked air filter will result in restricted power as the engine is receiving too much fuel and not enough air. This will smother the engine and cause it to run rough or stall. The filter should be removed and cleaned out regularly during cutting to remove any large dust particles. All air vents on the saw must be kept clear and free from dust build-up.
Guide bar and sprocket
Often the chain receives all the attention and the guide bar is overlooked as a result. The track on which the chain runs needs to be kept clean if the chain oil is to lubricate the chain properly. The chain guide bar is fitted with a bearing and sprocket. This bearing, like any bearing, should receive grease regularly.
The guide bar is a wearing part. If the chain channel has widened enough that the chain has become loose, then it will need to be replaced or turned. The top side will naturally wear more, so when wear just about becomes visible it is often a good idea to turn the guide bar upside down to get that bit extra use out of it before replacement.
Chain brake
The chain brake is a completely essential safety feature on any chainsaw. This needs to be functional. This is simply a steel band around the saw’s clutch drum. Once activated, rotation of the chain stops immediately. It is good practice to apply the brake every time the saw is left down or not in use. A saw with no chain brake should not be used.
Chain and chain oil
The amount of work done, and more importantly the type of timber being cut, will depend on how long a chain will stay sharp. If the chain comes into contact with clay, then it will immediately lose its edge. If pressure or leaning is required to make the saw cut, then it is generally in need of sharpening.
A two-in-one sharpening tool sharpens the cutters and lowers the depth gauges at the same time.
A chain can be sharpened manually with a file or using an electric sharpener. An electric sharpener may be quicker, but a simple round file or two-in-one tool is handy when out and about, eliminating the need to return to the yard or have it professionally sharpened. The two-in-one tool sharpens both the cutters and depth gauge (rakers) simultaneously. It is important to identify the chain type, which in turn determines the size of the file needed and the angle at which the chain is sharpened.
This method requires some skill and patience to perfect. A chain that has been sharpened unevenly will not cut straight and will wear unevenly. Each tooth has a witness mark on the top, which has two functions. Firstly, it indicates the sharpening angle and secondly, it marks the end of the chain’s life when filed to this point.
To sharpen, the file should be held level and at the correct angle. It then needs to be drawn from the inside of the cutter to the outside of the cutter with an equal number of rubs across for each cutter, ensuring the chain is evenly sharpened.
As a chain is sharpened, its depth gauges need to be lowered. Too low and the saw will be biting too much into the timber, causing it to jump, and if too high, the chainsaw will be unable to cut the timber. If in doubt, it may be worthwhile having the chain professionally sharpened. A replacement chain will cost in the region of €20 to €25 depending on brand and size.
Chain tension is important – too tight and it will not move freely on the guide bar; too loose and it has the possibility of coming off the guide bar. It should be tightened to the point that it is just resting against the bottom side of the guide bar. Run the saw for a few minutes and recheck the tension and adjust if necessary.
A chain can generally be sharpened using one of three methods: electric grinding tool (left), using standard round and flat files (midle) or by a two-in-one sharpening tool (right).
Common error
A common mistake made by many is that proper chain oil is not used. Waste oil or light oils should not be used, as they do not have the proper cling qualities and therefore are flung straight off the chain. Dedicated chain oil is relatively inexpensive considering the quantity used. Chain oil should be filled every time fuel is filled.
The correct PPE should always be worn.
In short
The chainsaw’s spark plug, fuel and air filter should be replaced during every service, with the air filter cleaned regularly during use. The condition of the chain and guide bar should be inspected. The chain brake should always be functional and the chain catcher also intact.
If you find yourself leaning on the saw to help it cut, then it needs sharpening. If using a file, use the correct file and draw it equally and evenly across all cutters at the angle of the witness marks.
Chain tension should be so that the chain is just resting on the bottom of the guide bar and regularly checked. Try leave the fuel tank empty if not in use for long periods. Finally, it’s important that all guards are intact and the correct PPE is worn at all times.
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