What to look out for in a used quad?

While we all might aspire to buy a new machine, more often than not it isn’t feasible. As many premium brand farm quads continue to climb in price to somewhere between €9,000 and €13,000 plus VAT (brand-dependent), it may not be justified or within budget to buy new.

The used market offers a suitable solution for all budgets, but brings with it an element of uncertainty regarding the machine’s history and mechanical working order. Buying from a reputable dealer is always a good starting point to ensure the machine is up to standard and as described. Dealers will often run the machine through the workshop and provide a warranty, which brings peace of mind for the new owner.

First off the bat, our advice is to buy a recognised brand with a proven reputation. Spend some time researching the common issues for that particular brand or model. This will give you points to be aware of when viewing a machine. Not only will a reputable brand have a better resale value but when it comes to sourcing parts, the process will generally be much easier than trying to source parts for a spurious brand that may potentially be no longer manufactured, or retailed in this country.

It’s important to assess each machine based on its condition and age relative to the asking price. In other words, don’t expect a two- to three-year-old machine in as new condition to be priced the same as 10-year-old machine with high hours, etc.

If you are unsure or are in no way mechanically minded, do consider going down the dealer route or take someone with a good knowledge of quads when viewing a machine.

Assess your needs

This may seem like an obvious point, but take into consideration what exactly it is you require from or intend to do with the quad.

Do you need a machine to just check stock, do you need a machine to handle a fencing box and spread fertiliser? Or is it entirely for recreational use? For example, if it’s a machine for farm use, that may end up doing some occasional fertiliser spreading, then you’ll likely require a 4wd machine somewhere around the 500cc mark for comfort, depending on the size of the spreader etc. While the majority of today’s machines are fitted with belt-driven CVT transmission, the used market will also feature manual and electric powershift models. From our experience, the belt-driven CVT is an easy to use, smooth trouble-free option worth considering, if at all possible. For farm use, look for a durably built machine that is equipped with good cargo racks.

Consider whether or not you need a road-legal quad or other possible options, such as independent suspension, electric power assisted steering, etc. Power-assisted steering is a super option for slower speeds or carrying cargo. However, it is a reasonably new feature and only fitted on more modern machines, so this will really depend on budget.

Was it stolen?

One of the first things to look out for, especially when buying private, is whether or not the quad has been stolen.

To check this, ensure the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), more commonly known as the chassis number, is present and has not been tampered with.

Over the past decade, the financing of new and second-hand ATVs and UTVs has become very popular. We strongly advisable to carry out a finance check to ensure there is no remaining debt.

If you have invested in an ATV, it’s advisable to invest in a tracking device.

These units are relatively inexpensive to buy, can be easily fitted and they record the machine’s location at any given point in time, helping with relocation if a theft ever occurs. Remember to record the machine’s chassis number and have it insured.

Body condition and appearance

They say you should never judge a book by its cover, but with a machine, general appearance tends to tell a lot about the level of care taken by the previous owner.

It’s important to inspect the quad’s frame for rust or welds. Plastic panels can be costly to replace, but still an easier fix compared to a cracked, strained or rusted chassis. Strain can occur if a machine has been used to tow loads over the rated capacity, or where objects have been pulled from the wrong location, ie cargo racks.

Where there is severe rust or signs of strain or cracks, we would strongly consider passing on this machine. If plastic panels are damaged, take repair or replacement costs into account. Most plastics will fade and eventually turn brittle, which is a strong indication that the quad was predominantly parked outdoors.

Engine

As already outlined, where a machine is being sold by a reputable dealer serviced and warranty, there should be nothing to fear. Often dealers may have some history on the quad or if it received any major repairs. With a private sale – it’s a case of trusting your own instinct and the seller.

Check engine oil level and air filter condition before starting the engine from cold – this is the most likely time to hear any potential issues.

Once started, listen to how the engine idles and whether it is smoky or not. It should start easily and idle smoothly. A little white smoke on startup can be normal with a machine that hasn’t been started in some time, once it disappears within 30 or so seconds. This tends to be water vapour burning off.

A lazy-starting petrol engine generally has one of two issues; the spark plug is worn, or the starter motor needs repair.

A machine that is misfiring or remains smoky once warmed, should be questioned and potentially avoided, as it could be a symptom of several possible issues. The sound of an engine and how it responds while driving is a good indication of its health.

Transmission

As we pointed out, the CVT-type transmissions are in most brands, with the exception of Honda and one or two others which are manual or electric powershift. CVTs tend to be maintenance free, with the exception of the belt slipping, which is a straightforward, inexpensive replacement.

Manual shift models tend to be trouble-free, while electric shift, depending on how the machine was operated by its previous owner (starting off in high gears, labouring, etc), can slip or fail to select gears due to worn brushes in the electric shift motor. Ensure each gear change is smooth and easily selected on both the upshifts and downshifts.

Machines with selectable 4WD should be checked, ensuring it engages and disengages at the press of the button. It’s not uncommon for the 4WD to not disengage straight away; coming to a stop or engaging the brakes generally does the trick. A non-functioning 4WD can have several possible causes and a potentially costly repair. If fitted, the front and rear locking differentials should be checked to see if they’re engaging and disengaging.

Suspension, steering and brakes

Check the machine’s suspension, as an older machine coming off-farm may have tired shocks in need of replacement.

Remember, machines with independent suspension have more moving parts in comparison to a fixed swingarm design Lack of comfort or shock response and or sagging will indicate that the shocks need to be replaced. When weight is placed and released on the suspension system, it should return to its original position nice and slowly. If it springs up like a basketball, it may indicate all that is active is the spring and not the gas in the shocks. Check bearing condition in each swingarm and that linkages and pivots are not damaged.

Check the steering linkage for wear or stiffness. Stiffness when moving the handlebars could be as simple as under inflated front tyres. If not, follow the steering linkage back to the hubs and look for wear.

Finally, check the condition of brakes. Disc brakes should have both pads and discs checked for wear and to ensure they are functioning. It’s common for quads with foot brakes and/or drum brakes to seize, especially if not in regular use.

With foot brakes in particular, the brake cable generally seizes from lack of use or build-up of dirt and results in brakes sticking on.