Readers will have seen John Hanly throws, scarves and caps stocked in stores nationwide, including Brown Thomas, Kilkenny Design Shops, Aran Sweater markets and Weavers of Ireland. And it is at Ballyartella Woollen Mills in Nenagh, Co Tipperary where these products are created.

A family business that has stood the test of time, managing director John Hanly is now the fifth generation running it. It is also one of just a handful of companies in Ireland that still weave on site.

“My great-great-grandfather, Denis Hanly and his son John, set up the business in 1893. I’m the fifth generation, although my father is still knocking about in the business,” John says, laughing. “It’s mad to think it’s gone that far. You’re minding it for the future.”

The strapline for the business, “Today, we weave a memory” certainly rings true for the Hanlys. Every item is designed and made in their factory, formally a disused flour mill, beside the Nenagh River. It is powered by the same water turbine that was installed in 1938.

The mill has changed from the early days when farmers brought in fleeces and the wool was spun, carded and woven to produce blankets and flannel fabric, John explains.

The mill stopped spinning after 1952 when a major fire reduced the six storey mill to one and a half storeys.

“After the fire the family had to think about how to get back up and running. They stopped the spinning, and kept weaving as the core business.

“Today, we source yarn from about 10 different suppliers, working with around 10 different yarn qualities. We also don’t do finishing in-house. Instead, we work with two finishers in Scotland and Italy.”

Even though John spent his childhood surrounded by the business, with his family home just a stone’s throw from the mill, he wasn’t pressured into joining. He studied accountancy, worked in the private sector, and also spent time in Australia.

However, he always had a bit of a grá for it. “When I was younger, we would have always worked here as kids. You’re immersed in it from a young age,” he says.

Inside the mill

John Hanly, director and Edel Starr, manager. \ Patrick Browne

Walking through the factory, John explains the careful stages of warping, weaving, and fringing – processes brought to life by the highly skilled workers on the floor. The business currently employs about 32 staff, and the family have been employing people locally for 130 years.

Although technology has massively changed how products are made, many of the stages in the process are still done by hand. “We’re a heritage brand with older techniques of making,” says John.

This is the ultimate counterpoint to fast fashion, and slow and sustainable production is something that John Hanly takes pride in.

They only use natural fibres and 100% wool, including merino wool, lambswool and cashmere and mohair blends. Everything is naturally biodegradable with no synthetic fibres. Their in-house designer Moira Leishman is also constantly seeking new directions for their collections.

“We’re known for our colours, patterns, and plaids,” John explains. “Our designer selects from a shade card with over 100 colours. We innovate through our design and new colours.”

John Hanly’s reputation for quality and craftmanship has garnered them attention from companies taking on bespoke projects, like businesses and hotels.

“We designed a special throw for Cashel Palace and are currently working on numerous scarves for the National Gallery, inspired by Lavery, Fontana and more,” says John.

The business also made headlines when Kate Middleton, the Princess of Wales, wore a Dubarry-designed jacket made from tweed and fabric designed at John Hanly back in 2019.

From the loom to the shop

Yarn being fed into the loom machines.

Settled beside the factory is the John Hanly shop, surrounded by a stretch of fields and stone walls weathered by time. Thick throws are stacked into shelves, bold colours catching your eye and the soft fibres of wool inviting your touch. Muted shades of tweed whisper the Irish countryside behind the wooden countertop.

“I find that when people come here, they just love the ambiance,” says manager, Edel Starr. “There’s something calming about it.”

The shop not only sells the John Hanly collections but it also sells seconds [products with only minor imperfections, like a misaligned fringe] and samples [one-off colours that didn’t make it into the final collection] as well as handmade cushions, accessories and baby blankets.

The shop also champions local craftsmanship, having worked with Tipperary designer Michelle Ruttle on a new collection of bags, including wash bags and tote-style bags.

Edel explains that people visit the shop to get interior design inspiration for their homes.“We have people coming down here and they want to do something different,” Edel explains. “Their sofa might have been there for years and a simple throw can completely lift a room.”

Consumers now want to know where their products come from and how they’re made

“It’s cheaper to get a really beautiful throw than a new sofa,” she adds.

It is rare to find a family business still manufacturing in Ireland today. Like many businesses, John Hanly has had to innovate to bring tradition into a digital age.

“We used to be 95% fabric, but now it’s flipped the other way and accessories are what sell most. People dress more casually and with remote work, people aren’t wearing suits as much, so we adapted by focusing on throws and rugs.”

Embracing digital retail has also been key to keeping the business apace with modern day. “We’re selling directly to customers through our website, keeping up with the latest ways of doing business. Social media, videos — all of these things are necessary now, even though they weren’t a decade ago.”

“There aren’t too many of us [businesses] left producing in this part of the world,” says John.

“People sometimes ask, ‘Why not get some fella in China to make it for you?’ But I do think that attitude is changing.

“Since the pandemic, people want to understand the supply chain a bit more. They are more aware of the flaws in fast fashion. Consumers now want to know where their products come from and how they’re made. And we enjoy telling that story.”

See johnhanly.com