Brews and views

We can all do with a bit of sunshine at this time of the year and, if you’re really serious about it, winter is the ideal time to visit New Zealand. Our winter is their summer so while we’re layering on the woolly jumpers and coping with darkness, New Zealand offers long days of daylight, warm weather and al fresco dining.

Make the most of your time there – I’d recommend three weeks at the absolute minimum – by doing plenty of roaming around both north and south islands, making sure to include Wellington, New Zealand''s capital city, on your travels.

This city is tucked into a natural harbour at the base of the north island. Although it’s dwarfed by Auckland (population 1.6m compared to Wellington’s 424,000) the best things certainly do come in small packages. It’s the centre of political power and the grounds of New Zealand’s parliament buildings, commonly known as the Beehive, are open for everyone to visit. You can walk through and even have a go on the architecturally-designed slide that rivals the Leinster House bikeshed for cost, if not for public access.

Wellington is a cultural and creative powerhouse, convenient to get around and with easy access to all the coffee, craft beer, wine and good food that you could possibly want on a city break. It’s also an ideal location to get your New Zealand bearings when you arrive in the country, or to make the most of your last few days before beginning the long journey home.

A visit to Wellington is how we – my two girls, Kiwi partner and I – ease ourselves out of the country after a visit to his family on the south island. It’s heartbreaking to leave, but a couple of nights in the capital with my sister and her partner, who have lived there for the last seven years, is a good way to end holidays before returning to real life.

Arrival by sea

If you’re not going to be collected at the airport by former prime minister Jacinda Ardern (who famously collected The Late Show presenter Stephen Colbert back in 2019), take a boat to Wellington from the south island seaside town of Picton.

One of the most beautiful ferry trips in the world, the Interislander (one way from €43) connects the south and north islands in less than 3½ hours. Sit outside to enjoy the view as the ferry wends through the Marlborough Sounds, across the Cook Strait (watch out for dolphins) and around to the Aotea Quay ferry terminal. There’s a free shuttle bus service from outside the terminal that will bring you right to the Wellington Railway Station in the city''s Central Business District.

Where to stay

For a short trip, you want to stay central and Rydges Wellington, in the heart of the CBD, is in a fantastic location with rooms starting from €127. There’s also a 17m pool on site for some time out. Aturaa Wellington, with rooms from €75, is less than a 10 minute taxi trip from the Interislander ferry terminal and still close to all the action. For self catering, Quest Atrium on The Terrace has simple one-bed apartments from €90.

Drink: coffee

From flat whites to long blacks, Kiwis love their coffee and it’s worth taking the time to sit down and appreciate it. Wellington lays (contested) claim to being the originator of the flat white and this style is ideal for Insta-worthy latte art. It’s hard to find a bad coffee in the city, but one spot to hit is Flight Coffee’s flagship Hanger Café on the corner of Willis and Dixon. Wellington-based Flight is a B Corp-certified speciality coffee roaster and they showcase their trade here with impeccably made drinks.

Do: culture

New Zealand’s national museum, Te Papa, is well worth a visit. It’s €20 for adults self-identifying as international visitors. The museum is a journey through New Zealand, its geological origins and native species, Maori culture and Kiwiana.

Don’t miss the Colossal Squid, a (slightly sad) corpse of the largest squid ever captured, which holds an enduring fascination for any kids – and many adults – who encounter it.

Queue up for the Earthquake House, which simulates what it’s like to experience an earth tremor, explore a traditional Maori marae (meeting house), learn about the Treaty of Waitangi and discover the stories of the migrants who settled in New Zealand.

A real highlight is Gallipoli: The Scale of Our War, an exhibition which tells the story of the ill-fated World War I campaign through the testimonies of eight New Zealanders. The incredibly detailed, larger-than-life sculptures were built by Weta Workshop (the special effects company that worked on Peter Jackson’s Tolkien films) and it’s a curiously moving experience that, thankfully, skirts away from war glorification.

Do: film

After experiencing those sculptures, visit the source at Weta Workshop. Although this company is very much associated with the Tolkien films, it has also worked on the Avatar sci-fi franchise, The BFG, and Dune, all the way back to 1989’s Meet the Feebles.

The workshop is in Miramar North, about 5km from the city centre. While you can visit the Weta Cave – a gift shop, mini-museum and photo op spot (cave trolls) for free – you certainly don’t have to be a Lord of the Rings obsessive to enjoy the brilliant behind-the-scenes workshop tours (book in advance, adults from €36).

Walk and eat

Skip breakfast if you’re going on a Food & Spice Odyssey walking tour (€140 per person) – you’ll need all your appetite. Make your way to the corner of Cuba and Manners streets for the 9.30am start and prepare to have your tastebuds wowed.

It’s three hours of strolling, slurping and sampling with visits to around six different spots, including manual coffee bar Pour & Twist, Nikau café (legendary cheese scones) and Zelati Dessert Café where the purple kumara and coconut ice cream is a winner.

Enjoy your purple cone while gazing at the Bucket Fountain, a colourful and mesmeric kinetic sculpture.

Brunching it

Wellingtonians are big on brunch, with highly inclusive menus: whether you’re a flexitarian, veggie, vegan, gluten-free or on a keto diet, there’s a dish for that.

One spot we’ve returned to on every trip is Neo. Their buttermilk pancakes are legendary – the girls are still talking about the apple crumble version they had years ago – and, along with bacon and egg, the breakfast bagel also incorporates avocado, spinach and hollandaise to take it right over the top.

Craft your own beer experience

First stop is Fortune Favours, an industrial steampunk-style brewpub housed in a former furniture restoration business on Hannah’s Laneway. Head upstairs to sit in the bright bar or on the terrace outside. There’s a great selection of rotation taps. The hop-forward Wellingtonian IPA is most popular, but if they have their chocolate peanut butter porter (aka Nutter), don’t miss it.

After one pre-prandial drink – I said one! – stroll over to Fork & Brewer on Bond Street.

With 40+ taps ranging from multigrain sour ales to IPAs, brett-ferments and pilsners, there’s always something interesting pouring. This spot is known for its burgers: check out their build-your-own-burger menu (from €9), ask for a beer pairing to match and you won’t regret it.

Leave by plane

When you arrive at the airport (a taxi journey of 15-20 minutes), you’ll discover that you’ve not left the Weta Workshop completely behind as there are several sculptures dotted around the complex. The beady yellow eye of Smaug the Magnificent observes you at check-in, and you can enjoy the last flat white of your trip as you’ll find organic, fair trade Good Joe Coffee at Best Ugly Bagels in the food cour, while observing Gandalf riding on one of the Great Eagles right above your head.

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