Something fishy going on in Clare

Driving around our own country for pleasure is a great way to get to know it properly. There’s time to really see what’s going on in the fields of rural Ireland. It’s also an opportunity to listen to what people are saying. Tim and I spent two days last week in Co Clare. It was not too far away so there were no long journeys and I was still getting over the vertigo episode. We started in the regal Bealkelly Country House, near Killaloe and the beautiful Lough Derg. One forgets how large and picturesque the lake is with its interesting lakeside vegetation.

Anita was our host in Bealkelly. A big open fire greeted us in the hallway. Tea and hot scones on arrival and a massive most comfortable bed awaited. I had to steel myself not to get into it straight away. Anita had booked Pipers Inn Gastropub nearby for us. We had scallops and liver pâté, lamb and steak. All dishes were lovely served by a wonderful waiter who was jolly and helpful. His name was Fatih and he was from Turkey.

Shock disruption

Our own chat was disrupted by a woman at a nearby table of six people who wanted a photograph taken. I was shocked when she started to shout “Alfonso, Alfonso, come here!” After a few efforts our lovely waiter arrived. “You want me?” he asked pointing to himself. The woman continued: “We want you to take a picture. Here!” she said, thrusting the camera at him. Very politely, in a jovial manner, he replied: “I am paid to serve your meal and to make sure you have everything you need but not to take your pictures.” But he still took the picture and they all laughed.

I was very uncomfortable with the treatment of this lovely gentleman. We Irish let ourselves down terribly when it comes to respecting difference and people from other countries who often provide valuable services to us.

The next day we visited Seed Savers. We walked the orchards and tasted heritage apples. Tim was going to bring some home for planting around the farm but the Seed Saver attendant directed him to the website where trees can be purchased and subsequently delivered to the doorstep.

We pulled into Nuala’s in Tuamgraney for lunch. We had a creamy and fish-filled chowder to top most chowders we’ve had heretofore. Tim was delighted to fish out four giant prawns. I was very smug when I found eight in my bowl.

Our second evening was spent in Spanish Point House. There, Pat the night porter regaled us with stories about the area while serving us tea and planning out our explorations for the following day. He called the cliffs in the area the mini Cliffs of Moher. These are the touches that bring you back.

Day two

We followed Pat’s advice but in the opposite direction because I wanted to be on the sea edge. Loop Head is part of the Wild Atlantic Way. The initiative has been really good for the area bringing more visitors.

Tim went up into the Loop Head lighthouse. It is owned by the Irish Lights Commissioners. All 74 lighthouses around the coast are now automated. The sea coast is geologically very interesting with huge plates of rock piled high and all leaning into the sea. It is quite different from Kerry or Donegal. We stopped for a walk at the Bridges of Ross near Kilkee and enjoyed the spectacular arching structure of the one remaining sea arch.

There’s nothing like the sea air to encourage an appetite and we found Keatings right on the pier in Kilbaha. We had scrumptious crab claws at a table facing out on the pier where a fishing boat was bringing in lobster pots.

Fishermen are like farmers – seven-day-a-week men. We went down for a chat. They informed us that they would be working a long day as their job is weather dependant. They can’t lay or collect pots in bad weather. They hadn’t been able to harvest the pots for 10 days. It’s tough manual work pulling up the pots. Their work turned to shrimp fishing further down the coast until the weather picked up.

Sometimes we think we’re the only ones ruled by the weather. Co Clare is indeed lovely and we enjoyed our break a short way from Cork.