The clocks have gone back, the trick or treating is done and we’re in that cosy time of late Autumn where there is great comfort in pulling the curtains, lighting the fire and putting your feet up. Now that I’ve returned from maternity leave, I’m delighted to be working with Neven again on our monthly food and wine pairing column, as part of our Entertaining at Home series.

Neven has eased me back in this month as roast duck is a meal I don’t even have to think about pairing wine with. Immediately, pinot noir comes to mind. With a meal like this you want the roast duck to shine and not be overpowered by a big, bold wine. Pinot noir is a light to medium bodied wine, more refined and subtle with low tannins. However, it has medium to high acidity which is exactly what we are looking for with our duck.

Among poultry, duck would be considered quite a fatty meat. The sharp acidity of pinot noir cuts through that fattiness, giving a crisp, clean mouthfeel.

Characteristics

We’re a few weeks on from the match that we still can’t talk about and I wouldn’t be surprised if those in the wine trade will retrospectively, see a dip in New Zealand wine sales in October 2023.

But despite our hurt on the rugby field, there is no denying the quality of New Zealand pinot noir. The cool climate coupled with volcanic, clay and limestone soil are ideal conditions to create a wine that is fruit forward but nuanced with a characteristic earthiness and silky-smooth tannins.

The beauty of wine pairing is there is no one set rule. You gravitate to what you enjoy and this is a meal that will also work well with white wine.

What you’re looking for here though is similar characteristics that will pair well with the duck, and that’s acidity. Riesling is one of my favourite wines for that balanced whoosh of acidity but with a depth of flavour that can carry those rich notes of the duck.

Marlborough Pinot Noir. Tesco Finest, €15.

Marlborough Pinot Noir. Tesco Finest, €15

Let’s head to New Zealand, where the warm days ripen and concentrate the grapes while the cold nights seal in the flavour and preserve natural acidity. This wine has lots of juicy, dark flavours of cherries and blackberries while the oak aging gives a subtle spice and a smooth finish. The quality of this wine for its price point makes it exceptionally good value.

Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir. Higgins Clonskeagh Dublin, The Wine Centre Kilkenny & O’Briens Wines nationwide, €46.80.

Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir. Higgins Clonskeagh Dublin, The Wine Centre Kilkenny & O’Briens Wines nationwide, €46.80

Cloudy Bay is one of the finest vineyards in Marlborough. You’ve got fruity flavours like strawberry and raspberry but this is layered with darker fruits such as black cherries, complimented with vanilla and subtle spices. It’s even got a hint of chocolate. Silky smooth tannins and juicy acidity and because its oaked, it has an exceptionally long, lingering finish.

Peter & Peter Riesling

Peter & Peter Riesling. Simply Better at Dunnes Stores, €12.79 (until 1 January 2024)

Germany is the home of exceptionally good Riesling and we’re heading to the Mosel Valley, where early and slow ripening of the grape leads to a flavoursome and complex wine. This Peter & Peter Riesling is a very fresh and crisp wine, you’ll get lots of juicy apple and a little bit of pear and apricot complimented by some zingy lime flavours and mineral acidity.

Lingenfelder Riesling. O’Briens. €20.95

Lingenfelder Riesling. O’Briens, €20.95

We’re heading to the Pfalz region in Germany. The Lingenfelder family who make this wine have lived in the region since 1520 and have accumulated over 500 years of knowledge of their local terroir. In fact, the winemaker is 13th generation. A really ripe and crisp wine with peach and grapefruit shining through. Excellent acidity that contributes to a very memorable finish.