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One of the standout features of camellias is their resilience. They are able to thrive in a variety of conditions, thanks to their adaptability. The main camellia species grown until about 30 years ago was the Japanese Camellia japonica and its many varieties.
But any of the japonica varieties are liable to frost damage, with a few exceptions, such as the outstanding ‘Adolphe Audusson’ with pale red flowers and the red-flowered ‘Jupiter’.
The williamsii hybrids were bred in Cornwall, from 1925 onwards, using a more hardy species crossed with the japonica types. This has yielded a slew of varieties of exceptional quality, many of them now very well-known and widely sold, such as ‘Donation’, ‘Inspiration’, ‘St Ewe’ and ‘Anticipation’.
Some of these varieties have ruffed double flowers, such as ‘Anticipation’ and ‘Debbie’ and others such as ‘Donation’ and ‘Inspiration’ are semi-double. There are very pretty single-flowered kinds such as ‘Mary Christian’ and ‘J.C. Williams’. Most of these are pink in various shades and there are no reds, except possibly ‘Freedom Bell’, which is a cross of unknown parentage, but considered to be a similar cross to the Williams varieties.
Many people buy a camellia without knowing whether it is a japonica variety or a williamsii type and only the latter should be grown in cold areas.
Growing camellias
Camellias need acidic soil. Many of the coastal counties are acidic while the inland areas are predominantly, but not exclusively, limey.
The soil should have plenty of leaf-mould or compost added, or applied as a mulch which improves soil structure while acidifying it. In limey areas, camellias must be grown in specially prepared acid beds or in pots of acid soil or compost. Beds can be made on top of the existing limey soil, simply piling up acid soil, if available, or peat or compost.
Each plant needs a good 2m wide and will fill this space in ten years. The pile should be 25 or 30cm above soil level at the centre and tail off to 10cm at the edge. The pile of acidic material, topped up with leaf-mould mulches, will eventually acidify the soil underneath, slowly neutralising the lime.
Camellias can be grown in a frosty area and simply brought under cover in cold weather. The plants tend to flower better in a pot for a few years, but eventually the pot tends to restrict the roots and the plants become pot-bound. They can be potted on but there is a limit.
Also, they should be given liquid feed at least once a month from April to September.
I have a large fungus, orange/red with white spots, which appears every year in my garden in late autumn/winter. A neighbour says that I should get rid of it. - James, Co Clare
The fly agaric or fly amanita is the classic toadstool of children’s fairytales, unmistakeable with it’s large red cap covered with white flecks. It is widespread and common, and occurs throughout Europe and North America.
Experts unanimously advise against consuming the fly amanita in any form, including cooking. The risks associated with its toxicity far outweigh any perceived culinary advantages. Its large, saucer-size, mushrooms are the fruiting body which produces spores that travel to new sites. Sometimes these very light spores can carry for several hundred kilometres. While these spectacular mushrooms are undoubtedly part of the autumn season, if you feel nervous about them, simply get rid as your neighbour suggests.
Trees, shrubs and roses: Continue tree planting in, especially bareroot, in good soil conditions. Roses can be pruned in mild areas.
Flowers: Lift and divide perennial flowers that have grown too large and are competing less vigorous types.
Lawn: There has been very good growth this winter so far and many lawns have needed mowing.
Fruit, vegetables and herbs: Fruit trees and bushes can be planted if the ground is not heavy. Control weeds by covering them.
Greenhouse and house plants: Check that a greenhouse frost protection heater is working. Water early plants and start others.
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