The art of craft butchery is in safe hands

In an age of mass production, the art of craft butchery is at risk of being overshadowed by industrial efficiency. This centuries-old skill remains essential for producing high-quality, sustainably-sourced meat and fostering a deeper connection between farmers, animals and consumers.

Craft butchery is more than just breaking down cuts; it’s about honouring the whole animal, reducing waste and preserving culinary traditions.

Apprenticeships in craft butchery serve as the critical link between seasoned artisans and aspiring butchers, providing hands-on training, teaching practical skills and the philosophy of ethical meat processing. The National Craft Butchery Apprenticeship offers an accessible pathway for individuals from diverse backgrounds to enter the industry and earn as they work.

With three training locations in Cork, Dublin and Sligo, this two-year QQI Level 5 course is delivered through 86% on-the-job training and 14% off-the-job training.

It is a challenging time for butchers around the country, with increased running costs and financial pressures, resulting in the closure of shops nationwide. Programme manager Julie Cahill has seen the knock-on effect to the programme, with a dip in applicants this year.

However, as labour shortages continue, there has been an increase in the demand for apprentices over the last year, with a more even split between supermarket and independent employers accessing the programme.

“In terms of recruitment, it’s very hard to get staff. That would have a knock-on effect on the programme. We had a two-year step back with COVID, which was a struggle for everyone, but great for butchery, it gave a boost to the trade,” says Julie.

The course comprises a diverse group of learners, the youngest apprentice is 16 and the oldest is 52, along with a mix of nationalities, with students from Poland, Croatia and Romania.

“In terms of the female-male ratio, in the beginning we had quite low numbers and representation from females. In the first two years of the course, we were standing at 5% female students, now that has risen to 13%. It’s not huge, but it’s growing,” she says.

The new gender-based bursary introduced by the Department of Further and Higher Education two years ago has helped to drive this.

The bursary, worth €2,666, is available to employers who employ apprentices on any national apprenticeship programme with greater than 80% representation of a single gender.

The National Craft Butchery Apprenticeship offers an accessible pathway for individuals from diverse backgrounds to enter the industry and earn as they work

Funding of up to €2,000 annually is available to employers under the Apprenticeship Employer Grant Scheme. More supports are needed, particularly for micro businesses.

“I think there needs to be more bursaries, more incentives, and more support from a Department point of view as operating costs and the wage costs have increased a lot. It’s been a struggle for everybody, but particularly for micro businesses. If you’ve got a shop with one or two people, those employers would love to release that employee for the training programme, but it’s not feasible,” says Julie.

Originally, there would have been more apprentices applying to the programme who were looking for employers, but that has switched and employers are now looking for apprentices.

“They are actively recruiting for apprentices. Our focus for 2025 will be to attract young people into the trade. The awareness of apprenticeships is building at the school level, but more needs to be done,” she says.

Offering weekends off and a variety of work will help to attract and retain talent, along with investing in education and training for their staff.

“That’s where the apprenticeship comes in, to sustain jobs within the shop and make a pathway for employees. The more we can get employers to back that and provide opportunities to their staff it will help with recruitment and retention,” says Julie.

The two-year programme covers 14 modules including: industry and butchery skills, food safety and hygiene, environmental sustainability awareness and entrepreneurial skills.

The programme is rooted in the independent sector which aims to retain the craft, art and skills of butchering before it was lost. It also seeks to sustain the industry to meet the skill shortages and provide a stream of young, new, fresh and qualified talent.

Student experience

Emily Callaghan, Ardee, Co Louth

Emily is a fifth-generation butcher, who decided to do the National Craft Butcher Apprenticeship after working in her father Andrew’s shop in Bettystown, Co Meath.

“I didn’t know what I wanted to do after school. I decided to work with Dad in the shop and I ended up loving it. At the end of last summer after working there for a year, I decided to do the apprenticeship with him,” she says.

The aspect of it being a male-dominated industry did creep into Emily’s mind, but she didn’t let that stop her.

“I said I might as well do it and start encouraging more girls to go into butchery. I am lucky enough to have another girl called Lauren on the course with me,” she says.

Although she wasn’t expecting it, Emily has enjoyed the academic side and finds the course days a nice break from the shop, especially at this time of the year, with the busy Christmas season.

“At the start, it was great to meet so many people, even though it’s a small course we’re all such good friends. I realised I knew a lot more than I thought I did. I have learnt so much from the lecturers, especially in the boning hall,” she says.

One of the benefits of the course for Emily is being able to earn and learn. She was hesitant to go to college because she wouldn’t be able to get money during the week, now she is getting paid while working towards her qualification.

And her advice for anyone thinking about doing the apprenticeship: just go for it.

“It’s so worth it and you get a great experience when you’re in the block learning. I would recommend it to anyone,” she says.

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